Camber correction for dropped 2nd Gens

I have started a list for people who are seriously interested, let's get this rolling :)
 
These are look close to what we need in the rear. This set fits a Lexus IS.

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So wheres the list? Did this die out?? I wanna drop my FX before the good weather starts rolling in. Now that the Mayans had it all wrong I got plans lol.
Set it off RIP, you should be first on the list
 
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Nobody's willing to spend the money for a proper solution. A full set of arms would be well over $1k. Drop it 1" and enjoy it :)
 
I'm in... From the sounds of it using H&R springs shouldn't be done without seeing excessive tire wear without this kit... If that's true I want to lower immediately but won't until a camber kit comes out. From the looks of it here it may never.

I will buy it if it does though!
 
I been talking to SPC back and forth and got them the measurements they needed a year ago, they are lagging big time or maybe they lost interest, who knows.
 
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It's all dying out, not enough people are interested. Fortune auto cancelled their Infiniti line Jan 1st. You can't keep a product around nobody buys.
 
It's all dying out, not enough people are interested. Fortune auto cancelled their Infiniti line Jan 1st. You can't keep a product around nobody buys.

Yup that's the truth, sucks
 
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We crunched all the numbers guys. Trust me, if it were possible to build them in any small qty (less than like 50) for well under $1k, we would have done it. The FX has a REALLY funky suspension and REALLY small group willing to pay for arms to be tooled and built. 2 guys, 5 guys, it really wont matter. Unless you get strength in numbers nobodys going to mass produce them. And for a one-off, well, its going to be $1k.
 
So its really a question of numbers. The only thing what's the loss of miles on the tires due to the camber and what does that translate into tire cost increase over the length of time you expect to have the vehicle. At 1700 bucks for a set of fx50 tires it may be worth it if you drive a ton.

Sent from my GT-N8013 2
 
Camber has a lot more to do with handling than tire cost. Not only are you going to wear out a set of $1500+ tires, your handling will be terrible. Which is one of the main points of lowering your FX.

If you're really are doing it for looks (ugh!), cut the stock coils and run some cheap tires. Same effect, 20% of the cost.
 
Handling would be terrible? Camber is generally used to improve cornering so im not sure what you mean. My car handles better by far after the drop than before, at all speeds.

We're also not talking about crazy camber angles here. We're talking about enough to....increase tire wear.

Im not sure if your post is meant to be sarcastic or if you really don't understand the issue and discussion.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 2
 
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You're right, I really don't understand camber, and people who frequent road courses definitely slam their car to acheive as MUCH negative camber as possible, since it improves cornering so much. I mean, how could decreasing the contact patch hurt the inertial moment of your car wanting to swing around like a pendulum? I'm glad you're here to teach people the golden rule of thumb, SLAM your car and push it through corners as hard as you can.

Jebus, this board is unbeleivable. All you tools with your $70k SUVs know SO much about cars and handling and racing. I think I'm done replying to any posts on this board. I'm sure many of you will be happy about that as ignorance is bliss and knowledge scares you and anybody knowledgable is arrogant.

http://blog.1aauto.com/2011/11/16/there-is-such-thing-as-too-much-negative-camber/

Here, pin this up on your wall. Maybe one day your FX can be so grand, this thing might as well be on train tracks:

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Enjoy your FX50"S" buddy.
 

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I will enjoy it. Thanks. But I wont be cutting my coils or installing 200 dollar tire sets any time soon thanks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 2
 
Justin,

Having knowledge is important, but delivery of that knowledge is paramount. You may indeed be well versed, however your communication skills need improvement.

Insulting the intelligence of members is not acceptable. There are many here who are more accomplished and better educated than you yet do not come off as arrogant or a know it all.

Let me know if you do decide to withdraw your membership; I doubt you will be missed.





TapaTalkin'
 
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one of the first things you do to any car that will see some track and road course use to increase handling as far as tune and adjustments is increase the camber SLIGHTLY. adding a degree or a degree and a half, seeing setups in the -3* range is the norm, and of course every car and every setup will differ but just about any car will NORMALLY respond well and handle better with a LITTLE more camber than factory spec, which is pretty much a compromise between handling and long term tire wear. unfortunately, on a street car that will see 15k miles a year or more the compromise must lean more towards even tire wear for the average use in it's travel which is where the problem comes. on a street car a tiny fraction of the times the car is being pushed hard through turns but the overwhelming majority of the times the tire is pretty much rolling with no real side loads and it will unfortunately cause premature wear on the inner side of the tread. if you always drove it really hard the way you would in competition and was always turning either left or right then you would see more even, and of course highly accelerated wear across the whole tread

on average and as expected, a lowered fx with a degree or a degree and a half of extra camber over stock spec WILL handle better than stock when pushed hard through the turns, why the hell is this even an argument? what the hell does a slammed and stupid looking car with all crooked wheels poking out even have to do with what is being discussed?

there are ways to explain things and then there are ways to act like a justin... WTF?

a custom set of arms fabricated for you as a one off I agree that $1,000 sounds about right and personally I wouldn't hesitate to spend that for a quality job that puts all the geometry and adjustments correct at the lowered ride height, unfortunately even that is a challenge because the given suspension geometry is designed around the stock ride height and as you lower you are also moving the static ride height up through the suspension geometries natural camber curve. what this means is even if you are able to correct the alignment parameters at the new lowered ride height the suspension geometry still will not be optimized for the new lowered ride height. the absolute best way to really significantly lower an fx, and way more so even on a 2nd gen because it does not use a macpherson strut setup would ideally be lowering knuckles. this would really be the only way to lower the 2nd gen while maintaining the proper negative and positive camber curves built into the suspension geometry and would be best to control not just static camber but more importantly the range of camber curve throughout both the ups and downs as the body rolls through the turns.
 
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