A member here, f1fx, has them on his fx.
Brakes
- Thread starter dopie
- Start date
A member here, f1fx, has them on his fx.
- Car
- 09 FX50
not in hardcore:wub:
Brembo, Rotora, Stoptech, JBT (not in US) and AP Racing (Stillen) has BBK for our cars. If you're fine with spacers or have aftermarket wheels that'd allow bigger calipers, get the front Infiniti kit. It's identical to AP Racing & Stoptech 4 pot kits and half the price. You can also get it from G37 forums (new & used) as their kit is identical to FX50 one.
Any wheel you'll see on Tirerack that'd work with G37 Sport will work with ours without spacers basically..
EG3,
Thx for the info. I wasn't aware Brembo made one for the FX35. Do you have any preference over those mentioned? I have driven the FX50S and the brakes on it were very average and I wasn't that impressed. I'm looking for something with a lot more bite than those. Are the FX50S brakes the exact same kit as the AP/StopTech? I ask because sometimes even though a company blue labels for a manufacturer you don't get the same product as you would if you ordered from the company directly. I was looking at the Stoptech ST-60 six pistons for up front? Any thoughts?
ps: I would be willing to go up to a 19" lightweight wheel, or even a 20" if I had to.
greddysetgo
Member
Rotors are not covered by warranty cuz they are a wear item, but wow $200 just for resurface??!?
I would really just do the brake job yourself and have the rotors resurfaced at PepBoys or another shop that will do it for much less. I can't believe the dealer is charging that much just to resurface, for that price you can just buy new rotors... If you were located closer to me, in Pasadena, I would resurface them for you!
I would really just do the brake job yourself and have the rotors resurfaced at PepBoys or another shop that will do it for much less. I can't believe the dealer is charging that much just to resurface, for that price you can just buy new rotors... If you were located closer to me, in Pasadena, I would resurface them for you!
- Car
- 2003 FX35T
- Name
- Brad
Just wondering if anybody has ever gone for a front BBK and then tried to move the OEM front calipers to the back? That would be a huge upgrade to the back, for cheap, as compared to buying a 2-piston upgrade for the back...
Might just take a simple bracket to make it fit, plus I'm guessing you would have to put the left front caliper on the right rear rotor, so the bleed valve is pointing in the right direction. This is because the fronts are trailing edge mounted and the rears are leading edge mounted. Same for the right front caliper going to the back left rotor.
I have the Stoptech front BBK and I'm looking at the OEM front calipers I removed thinking about how much better they are than the rear set. Seems to be a waste not to use them, if at all possible.
Might just take a simple bracket to make it fit, plus I'm guessing you would have to put the left front caliper on the right rear rotor, so the bleed valve is pointing in the right direction. This is because the fronts are trailing edge mounted and the rears are leading edge mounted. Same for the right front caliper going to the back left rotor.
I have the Stoptech front BBK and I'm looking at the OEM front calipers I removed thinking about how much better they are than the rear set. Seems to be a waste not to use them, if at all possible.
not going to work at all, even if you could figure a way to mount them up it'll throw off the brake bias big time, your rear wheels will lock up with even modest brake pressure applied...
theres more to brake balance than just mounting any old caliper anywhere you want bro, don't waste your effort it won't work...
theres more to brake balance than just mounting any old caliper anywhere you want bro, don't waste your effort it won't work...
- Car
- 2003 FX35T
- Name
- Brad
Interesting... So are you saying that other 2/4 pot rear BBKs are designed to put less pressure on the rotor than our OEM two piston fronts? And why wouldn't ABS kick in if the wheels try to lock up?
it's dependant on piston displacement & working psi & friction coefficients. stoptech has a good writeup on brake bias here: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakebiasandperformance.shtml
a clip from that article:
Evaluating this chart, we see that the vehicle will always be rear-biased. That is, the rear brakes will always be applying more force at the tire contact patch than the weight of the rear axle can sustain. This vehicle will always lock the rear brakes before the front. Not so good.
Most cars, however, have brakes at the rear that are smaller than the front. There are a lot of reasons for doing this, and one of them is to help provide the correct brake bias. Also, most cars have a proportioning valve which limits the amount of brake pressure seen at the rear calipers. If we look at the same chart with a more realistic braking system (one that takes into account these effects) it might look like the chart in Figure 5.
Perfect brake bias is obtained when the front-to-rear balance of the brake system exactly matches the front-to-rear weight balance of the vehicle. Looking at our typical brake system chart, we see how difficult this is to do. However, if we’re trying to optimize a brake system for a particular deceleration level, it becomes much easier. We can tune the system so that the two lines cross (or come close to it) at the deceleration level the vehicle will be operating at most often. This is easy for a non-aero racing vehicle which typically operates at one fixed deceleration level. For a street car, this is almost impossible to achieve, because a car driven on the street doesn’t always operate at one deceleration level (if yours does, you probably don’t get too many repeat passengers!).
And here’s a free tip – effects of poor brake bias on the street not only include sub-optimal stopping distances, but also include sub-optimal brake pad life. If a car is too heavily front-biased in the deceleration range it typically operates in, it will wear front pads more quickly due to the fact that the rear brakes aren’t doing as much of the stopping work as they could be. However, the rear brake pads will probably last forever
a clip from that article:
Evaluating this chart, we see that the vehicle will always be rear-biased. That is, the rear brakes will always be applying more force at the tire contact patch than the weight of the rear axle can sustain. This vehicle will always lock the rear brakes before the front. Not so good.
Most cars, however, have brakes at the rear that are smaller than the front. There are a lot of reasons for doing this, and one of them is to help provide the correct brake bias. Also, most cars have a proportioning valve which limits the amount of brake pressure seen at the rear calipers. If we look at the same chart with a more realistic braking system (one that takes into account these effects) it might look like the chart in Figure 5.
Perfect brake bias is obtained when the front-to-rear balance of the brake system exactly matches the front-to-rear weight balance of the vehicle. Looking at our typical brake system chart, we see how difficult this is to do. However, if we’re trying to optimize a brake system for a particular deceleration level, it becomes much easier. We can tune the system so that the two lines cross (or come close to it) at the deceleration level the vehicle will be operating at most often. This is easy for a non-aero racing vehicle which typically operates at one fixed deceleration level. For a street car, this is almost impossible to achieve, because a car driven on the street doesn’t always operate at one deceleration level (if yours does, you probably don’t get too many repeat passengers!).
And here’s a free tip – effects of poor brake bias on the street not only include sub-optimal stopping distances, but also include sub-optimal brake pad life. If a car is too heavily front-biased in the deceleration range it typically operates in, it will wear front pads more quickly due to the fact that the rear brakes aren’t doing as much of the stopping work as they could be. However, the rear brake pads will probably last forever
Based on that last sentence, I think we can say that our FX in stock brakes are more rear biased since the stock rear pads almost always wear much earlier than fronts..
- Car
- 2003 FX35T
- Name
- Brad
Great explanation. So when Stoptech talks about balanced upgrades, they recommend packages for front and back that tweak that brake bias to the deceleration level they, "choose"?
Could we change the limit valve (tune to our car's bias)? Stoptech doesn't sell a rear BBK for our FX, only upgrades (I think), which tells me they don't make a rear caliper small enough to work with the stock master cylinder - that improves/benfits the bias.
I was thinking that getting an 8-pot in the front, and moving the OEM 2 pot to the back would maintain the bias (front to back) but I have no idea if that's really true.
And would the ABS kick in if the rear brakes gripped too hard?
Could we change the limit valve (tune to our car's bias)? Stoptech doesn't sell a rear BBK for our FX, only upgrades (I think), which tells me they don't make a rear caliper small enough to work with the stock master cylinder - that improves/benfits the bias.
I was thinking that getting an 8-pot in the front, and moving the OEM 2 pot to the back would maintain the bias (front to back) but I have no idea if that's really true.
And would the ABS kick in if the rear brakes gripped too hard?
there are adjustable proportioning valves that can fine tune brake bias, but more used on street rods & race cars, not common to have to add that to a car like the fx that's all computer controlled, although I suppose it could be...
the hydraulic system is calibrated to a certain amount of cfm's of fluid to the rear in proportion to a certain amount of cfm's of fluid to the front. piston size & displacement determine what would & wouldn't be a suitable match as a replacement utilizing the rest of the existing hydraulic system as is & keeping the proportioning as is.... once you start screwing around with changes that will affect the brake bias & then add an adjustable proportioning valve your really changing the dynamics of the whole system, usually best to try & work with the system rather than against it in a case like the fx really, if you really want to tread into this then I'd suggest you really do your research & learn everything you can about brake system hydraulics so you understand what it is your doing ...
the hydraulic system is calibrated to a certain amount of cfm's of fluid to the rear in proportion to a certain amount of cfm's of fluid to the front. piston size & displacement determine what would & wouldn't be a suitable match as a replacement utilizing the rest of the existing hydraulic system as is & keeping the proportioning as is.... once you start screwing around with changes that will affect the brake bias & then add an adjustable proportioning valve your really changing the dynamics of the whole system, usually best to try & work with the system rather than against it in a case like the fx really, if you really want to tread into this then I'd suggest you really do your research & learn everything you can about brake system hydraulics so you understand what it is your doing ...
Another reason why the OEM front calipers won't work well on the rear is that the rear rotors are smaller than the fronts.
I think one reason why the OEM rear pads wear out is because of the SLIP light. If you tend to spin the rear wheels a lot, the rear pads will wear faster thajn if the SLIP light stays off.
I think one reason why the OEM rear pads wear out is because of the SLIP light. If you tend to spin the rear wheels a lot, the rear pads will wear faster thajn if the SLIP light stays off.
- Car
- 2007 FX35 RWD
Hmm, I will have to check out this statement. I don't use VDC so when my pads are replaced I will see what wears faster. Right now it is the rears, but I haven't been the only driver on these pads as far as I know.