Boss 339 Black 20"x8.5"

What thickness of spacer do they recommend, You will have to get at least 10mm thick spacers so they will include longer studs.
What is the offset of your new wheels? The spacers will push them out whatever the thickness of the spacer is, so you must also consider that.

I personally do not like using spacers, I would consider the longer studs but first see if longer tuner lug nuts are available to work with your 21" wheels.
 
They recommend the 10mm spacers.
The offset is 38mm on the new wheels.

Okay so i guess i'm gonna see if they can find 10mm studs and as well as longer tuner lug nuts, that would be ideal and solve all the problems.

But what are the cons of getting the 10mm pro-spacers that come with the studs?

Thanks
 
PRICE31 said:
They recommend the 10mm spacers.
The offset is 38mm on the new wheels.

Okay so i guess i'm gonna see if they can find 10mm studs and as well as longer tuner lug nuts, that would be ideal and solve all the problems.

But what are the cons of getting the 10mm pro-spacers that come with the studs?

Thanks
Click to expand...
If you use the spacers your wheel will sit outwards 10mm more, you add more variables into wheel vibration. Don't get me wrong though, there are hundreds of people use spacers with no problem. Here is a link to kics 10mm spacers which are pretty good: http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/m...n=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=KICS-5110W1

If your OEM lugnuts will not work with a bit longer stud, why will the work with a spacer with longer studs when you go back to your 21s? Or are you going to remove your spacers when you use your 21" wheels?

To me it would be much simpler if you could get longer studs installed for your winter rims to fit safely and find proper longer tuner lugnuts that will work with your OEM 21" wheels.
 
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Hey GEE35FX,

thanks for your advice. That's what i was going to do, going for longer studs and finding longer tuner lugnuts.

If i end up with spacers, then yeah i would remove them in the summer before putting the 21" OEM.

I hope i can find longer tuner lugnuts as well as the 10mm studs, because that will just be the safest/best way to solve everything.

Do you think it will be hard to find the studs or the tuner lugnuts?
My dealership is looking for the studs, and still hasn't called back, i'm hoping he finds them.
I think i'm gonna ask thema about the lugnuts at the same time.

Thanks a lot, appreciate it :)
 
Are your OEM 21" lug nuts like the lugnuts on the right, if so, make sure you get the longer replacements with the same design, not like the older style on the left. The style on the left will not work safely with your 21s if they did come with the style on the right.
It might be more difficult to find the longer tuner lugnuts in that style. You will have to check a few suppliers.
Note: I am just referring to the nuts for your 21s.
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I am at work right now, but if my memory is correct, it is the right one.

Is there any chance that it will fit the 10mm studs? I am worried that it won't fit, but are there any chances that the original ones might just fit with some luck?

Thanks
 
PRICE31 said:
I am at work right now, but if my memory is correct, it is the right one.

Is there any chance that it will fit the 10mm studs? I am worried that it won't fit, but are there any chances that the original ones might just fit with some luck?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Sorry, I really have no idea.
 
Okay, I called back my dealer and he said that the original ones will fit the longer studs, he doesn't see any problems.

He said he's still looking for the longer studs and it will be about 1.5 hours of labor work at 100$/hour CAD.

At this rate, am I not better to just the the pro-spacers? I am not sure how it works with the pro-spacers, does it require the same installement concerning the studs?

Thanks

---------- Post added at 10:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 PM ----------

Why would longer studs be preferrable than the pro-spacers 10mm that will give the 7~8 turns on the lugs for safety purposes?

If i am willing to have the wheels more out (for the look/handling) am i better off to just get the pro-spacers and not go through the hassle of changing the studs?

Because changing the studs will cost me almost as much as having the pro-spacers.

Thanks
 
It's really your call, sounds like you want the spacers. Go for it .
 
10mm longer studs should be fairly sure that it'll fit with the stock wheels & stock lug nuts... you can easily confirm this by looking into the lug nut from the 21 wheels. you should be able to see how many threads were engaging & how much more depth you have to go... should be over 10mm more that the stock config can take. you can even count the threads, every 4 threads is 5mm (each thread is 1.25mm)


10mm is 8 threads. by going to a 10mm longer stud your adding 8 threads. if the stock lugnut had an extra 10-11 threads that are not engaging then the lug nut will swallow these extra 8 threads without a problem, no open ended lugs...

if you just did 5mm longer studs then you'd be only adding 4 threads... this may even be enough & truthfully if you want no chance you'll have to trim the studs a little then 5mm is the safest bet. you said your only getting 4 turns, 5mm longer studs will give you 8 turns instead of 4 & I think it's pretty sure to fit the stock lug nuts too. the reason I would go with 10mm over 5 is I think it would take even that, & if it was a mm or 2 too long for the stock lug nuts I'd shave it down some, & still wind up with even more thread engagement than just the 5mm would give.

if you've got slight vibration issues it is possible spacers can amplify it & add to the problem too. if you really want to go the spacer route then you will need at least a 20mm spacer to use the 10 lug style there recommending, & this is if the aftermarket wheels have some recess between the lug holes, if the back of the wheel is flat you may even need 25mm to clear the stock studs.


don't know what there thinking but no way a 10mm spacer of this design can even work, that's impossible... you'd have to cut the studs & shave the lug nuts all down to 10mm to be even possible to use a 10mm spacer of the 10 lug design....


FORMULA: the smallest spacer you can use with the 10 lug design is = to the length of the stock stud - whatever rim recess there is in the rim inbetween the lug holes period. will be over 15mm for sure on the fx new or old I believe, unless you have some really deep recesses in the wheels...


then you've also got the issue of having 10 lug nuts on each wheel & having an aluminum ring being the only thing holding the wheel to the car.

spacers are always better when one strong stud is sandwiching the wheel & spacer togeather to the steel hub... the 10 lug style spacer there recommending holds the aluminum ring to the hub with 5 lugs & then holds the wheel to the aluminum ring with another 5 studs. not an ideal situation. many will overtighten the lugs holding the spacer on or the lugs holding the wheel on & the spacer can warp from overtightening also adding big time to vibration problems. it is always better to install spacers with longer studs & the wheel bolted & everything sandwiched directly to the hub .

just sharing info & my recommendation, personally I wouldn't use the 10 lug design for anything more than a temporary situation but that doesn't mean you can't really, easiest? maybe, but doing it right is not that much harder I think
 
Waow turbocad, thanks. You have convinced me finally once and for all.

I'm going to go for the longer studs route, and if you and dealer dude said that the original lugnut will fit then it should be fine.

I am getting 5 turns in the front wheels.
And about 7 to 7.5 in the back.

Should I also install longer studs in the back? Or i should be fine with just the front?

Thank you guys, you guys are very helpful. I can't even start imagine how even more clueless i would be without this forum!

---------- Post added at 10:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 AM ----------

oh and after i went to that specialized balancing/mounting place, they put the weights at a much better place and are barely visible.

I guess the 1st garage i went to aren't great at balancing stuff.

---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 AM ----------

True, i made some calculations after reading this post. And yeah it ends up costing me more... about $230CAD if i were to just buy the same winter tires but 21" and put them on the OEM wheels...

The thing is that, the next time i change my winter tires i'll be much better off already since i saved about almost $1000 for getting 20" winter tires instead of 21" winter tires.... pretty ridiculous....

Is it recommended to buy extra winter tires since they're cheap? $99/tire through tirerack.com or should i wait?

Thanks

GEE35FX said:
Heck, that is too bad you are having all these problems.
First, any competent shop selling you aftermarket wheels should also provide you with hub centering rings, so yes definitely run centering rings.
Lots of guys run spacers, but then sometimes running spacers can cause balance problems. If you are going to keep those rims it is too dangerous to have the studs that short, so you will have to get your studs replaced with longer ones or use the spacers as you mentioned. The good buy on your winter rims is getting more costly. The rims do look good though.

I was away for the past week and I ran my new Blizzaks up as fast as 150km/h (I think their rating is only 160). They were smooth as silk.
Click to expand...
 
turbocad6 said:
10mm longer studs should be fairly sure that it'll fit with the stock wheels & stock lug nuts... you can easily confirm this by looking into the lug nut from the 21 wheels. you should be able to see how many threads were engaging & how much more depth you have to go... should be over 10mm more that the stock config can take. you can even count the threads, every 4 threads is 5mm (each thread is 1.25mm)


10mm is 8 threads. by going to a 10mm longer stud your adding 8 threads. if the stock lugnut had an extra 10-11 threads that are not engaging then the lug nut will swallow these extra 8 threads without a problem, no open ended lugs...

if you just did 5mm longer studs then you'd be only adding 4 threads... this may even be enough & truthfully if you want no chance you'll have to trim the studs a little then 5mm is the safest bet. you said your only getting 4 turns, 5mm longer studs will give you 8 turns instead of 4 & I think it's pretty sure to fit the stock lug nuts too. the reason I would go with 10mm over 5 is I think it would take even that, & if it was a mm or 2 too long for the stock lug nuts I'd shave it down some, & still wind up with even more thread engagement than just the 5mm would give.

if you've got slight vibration issues it is possible spacers can amplify it & add to the problem too. if you really want to go the spacer route then you will need at least a 20mm spacer to use the 10 lug style there recommending, & this is if the aftermarket wheels have some recess between the lug holes, if the back of the wheel is flat you may even need 25mm to clear the stock studs.


don't know what there thinking but no way a 10mm spacer of this design can even work, that's impossible... you'd have to cut the studs & shave the lug nuts all down to 10mm to be even possible to use a 10mm spacer of the 10 lug design....


FORMULA: the smallest spacer you can use with the 10 lug design is = to the length of the stock stud - whatever rim recess there is in the rim inbetween the lug holes period. will be over 15mm for sure on the fx new or old I believe, unless you have some really deep recesses in the wheels...


then you've also got the issue of having 10 lug nuts on each wheel & having an aluminum ring being the only thing holding the wheel to the car.

spacers are always better when one strong stud is sandwiching the wheel & spacer togeather to the steel hub... the 10 lug style spacer there recommending holds the aluminum ring to the hub with 5 lugs & then holds the wheel to the aluminum ring with another 5 studs. not an ideal situation. many will overtighten the lugs holding the spacer on or the lugs holding the wheel on & the spacer can warp from overtightening also adding big time to vibration problems. it is always better to install spacers with longer studs & the wheel bolted & everything sandwiched directly to the hub .

just sharing info & my recommendation, personally I wouldn't use the 10 lug design for anything more than a temporary situation but that doesn't mean you can't really, easiest? maybe, but doing it right is not that much harder I think
Click to expand...


Ok, i've decided i'm gonna go the 10 lug style spacer.
Now, i will go with the 20mm because like you said the original studs will be too long and will hit the wheels i believe.

Now, do you know if the studs on the spacers are longer than the stock studs? Because if they aren't it doesn't solve my problem of getting only 5 turns of the lugs right?

Thanks
 
You did not get enough on your front because you used a 3mm spacer with your stock studs, is that not correct? You will be eliminating that.
 
ahhh, that makes perfect sense... so i will get about 3/1.25 = 2.4 more turns?

Would feel much better driving it that way, cool, thanks!
 
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