Boss 339 Black 20"x8.5"

Maybe they just ran out of heavier weights, so they used a bunch of small ones. We need some rim balancing experts in here.
 
Looks great! If you paint the weights, they won't be as noticeable.

Just to clarify... Don't remove the weights to paint them. Just mask tape around the weights and hit with a fews sprays of paint.
 
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What are the weights for anyways? They're everywhere in every wheel.... what the heck does that mean? does it mean my wheels are like "defective" or something?

Anyhow, I don't really really "mind" since its just for winter.
 
very good wheels are pretty well balanced, & better tires are also pretty well balanced... usually the tire valve is the heaviest point on a wheel if the rest of the wheel is symetrical & perfect, especially with a tpms sensor, so tire manufacturers put a dot on the tire at it's lightest point, & when the tire is mounted then the dot should be lined up with the valve to get the best tire-rim match before balancing... good wheels usually won't need more than an oz, maybe 1.5oz..., 2 even, once you start hitting 3 it's like hmm... 3.5-5 is like ahhh, not so great of a wheel assy really & a bit of a disapointment...

when you start getting to over 5oz at any one point then that's not a very good wheel assy OR the balancer just has issues... if they didn't match the tire to the rim this can cause excess weights needed, but even so 5oz & better is not so hot... do you have tpms? that can add an oz or 2 to the equation too... if you have weights all over the place then the balancer just sucked more than likely, weights should be in one spot on the rim with a good wheel assy & a good balance, if your seeing weights oposite weights then the balancer was just grasping at straws doing the balance... also noticed that the bars extend in to the wheel & limit weight placement, so if the balancer just stuck them next to where they should go he'd be there all day adding & adding everytime he added them in the wrong place & spun it up again, which is probably the case here most likely...

just as a reference, a good set of 22" wheels with a good set of tires I balanced recently took 1/4 oz one wheel, 1/2oz the next, 3/4oz the 3rd & 1 1/4oz the last, & I was pissed that the one took over an oz... factory cast wheels that are not tire matched correctly when mounted can take 3-5 oz maybe... more than that is just not right or a defect somewhere really, either tire or wheel...
 
thanks turbocad, i guess my wheels and tires both suck in terms of being "balanced" which would cause to have so many weights?

The garage i brought my car have a very good reputation and they know their stuff, they told me they've never seen this before and its their first time ever to see such thing.

Anyways, I got my tires from tirerack.com on sale at 99$/tire and my wheels from an online deal.
Maybe that's why they were cheap?
 
cheap large heavy cast wheels is probably a big factor here too... the larger & heavier the wheel, the more balancing discrepancy you will find... in the end even if it takes 13oz to balance them, they should still be balanced & they could still be ok. realize that 16oz is a pound... having to add anywhere near that to balance a wheel is like :ehh: :tonguey: even 1/2 a pound, which is 8 oz is just :ehh: too, & that one picture shows at least that much...

biggest question here is, do they feel fine at 40-50-60mph? 70? if there not causing vibration issues then I wouldn't say that you really need to do anything other than hope they cleaned the wheels well & stuck them on good, you start loosing weights then your going to start to get vibrations if it doesn't vibrate now...

also gotta hope that the wheels are true, a non true wheel will be a nightmare to balance & will probably still cause vibrations even with a ton of weights...
 
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Afterall its the right rear wheel and front right that has a lot.

right/rear: 25*7g = 175g which is roughly 6.2ounce
right/front: 22*7g = 154g which is roughly 5.4 ounce

on the left side is 2~3 pieces of 7g each wheel which is less than one ounce 1/2 and 3/4 ounce
 
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PRICE31 said:
Afterall its the right rear wheel and front right that has a lot.

right/rear: 25*7g = 175g which is roughly 6.2ounce
right/front: 22*7g = 154g which is roughly 5.4 ounce

on the left side is 2~3 pieces of 7g each wheel which is less than one ounce 1/2 and 3/4 ounce
Click to expand...


6.2oz & 5.4oz is really not too bad, saying there all over the place on the wheels I was picturing more.... wouldn't worry much about it, def nice looking wheels, a little black paint on the weights & you won't even notice them really
 
I have some little problems now....

I felt some vibration at around 100km~120km/h so i brought it to this garage specialized in balancing/mounting. And they used their super cool machine there and it helped but still has some vibrations....

They recommended me to get centering rings as well as pro-spacers for the front wheels because they said that the studs are a bit too short for those wheels and that it only gets about 4 turns and its suppose to get at least 6 turns for safety purposes.

I am totally fine with getting the pro-spacers (eibach) for the front wheels. My question is should I get it for the rear wheels as well? Basically, will it be "ugly" if i just get the pro-spacers for the front wheels only?

And will I be able to use those for my original OEM 21" enkei wheels?

Thanks for all, i'm very new at all this
 
I'd get both front and back, but I wouldnt think you would need a very big spacer so there should be no fitment issues with the 21's
 
Heck, that is too bad you are having all these problems.
First, any competent shop selling you aftermarket wheels should also provide you with hub centering rings, so yes definitely run centering rings.
Lots of guys run spacers, but then sometimes running spacers can cause balance problems. If you are going to keep those rims it is too dangerous to have the studs that short, so you will have to get your studs replaced with longer ones or use the spacers as you mentioned. The good buy on your winter rims is getting more costly. The rims do look good though.

I was away for the past week and I ran my new Blizzaks up as fast as 150km/h (I think their rating is only 160). They were smooth as silk.
 
centering rings are critical & must be used if the wheel center bore is larger than our hub which is 66.1mm

instead of spacers I'd say get longer studs... nissan doesn't give much stud length to begin with & with some aftermarket wheels the mounting flange can be a little thicker & not leave enough thread engagement...get 10mm oversized studs & that's it... should work fine when you go back to your stockers too...

even if you did want to do spacers, you really still should get longer studs & use the through spacer stud design anyway...
 
Thank you guys, very helpful.

I've been told by the garage dude that if I get the pro-spacers for the front, then I will get at least 6 turns and it's fine like that. Should i believe him? I don't understand how with those pro-spacers i will get more "turns"?

For the rear wheels i get more than 6 turns, so he said its fine there.

Do you guys know how much the 10mm studs will cost? How do I make sure that it will be no problem with the OEM 21"?

Thanks guys, IS is amazing, dunno what i would be doing without this forum !!

---------- Post added at 01:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 AM ----------

I called my dealership and asked them about getting the studs.

He told me that he never heard of needing to get longer studs. Anyways, he's looking for the same diameter of the studs but longer, and he told me that the lug might not fit properly the OEM lugs and that I might need opened lugs... which is not something i'm interested i believe....

I called my garage and he said that the eibach pro-spacers come with longer studs and that it will be fine if i get those?

I have 2 concerns now, i do want feel safe and secure hence i want to get the longer studs for the front wheels, but i dont want to sacrifice to have open lugs on my oem 21'' during summer...

what do you guys suggest me to do?

are the 10mm studs going to force me to have open lugs in the front during summer?
If that's the case, will the pro-spacer solve everything?
I'm a bit confused as why i should get teh longer studs instead the pro-spacers alone that come with longer studs...

I am getting contradicting opinions and very confused! :S

I just want to get this solved, its stressing me out!

Thanks
 
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