I got about 1.8 drop in the rear, how much camber do i have?
Better Bump Stops for all 2003-2008 FX35/FX45 Coilovers
- Thread starter Chedman13
- Start date
Please post part# that you use John. I slotted and had SPC #72265 for camber and toe on Ed, but decided to take them off and use the stock bolts instead. Reason being, the SPC #72265 camber bolt is about 1/8" too short for comfort due to the added thickness of the GTSPEC tie brace and the using the toe the SPC #72265 on the toe is a bit too long because it might be a bit too long that it may have an out of thread on the bolt to tighten down a bit more. Honestly, I should have taken some measurements between the stock and SPC toe bolts, but decided to go back using the stock bolts and I didn't. According to SPC specs on #72265 camber kit, it can provide up to +3 to -3 degree of adjustment. Slotted the sub frame wasn't enough? The "magic" is in the camber bot & washer?
Here is my alignment done on a Hunter HawkEye Elite:
The tech forgot to save the previous specs, but it really doesn't matter since they were all over the place from the coilover install. But Andy actually did a great job eyeballing it, the tech said it really wasn't off that much=) Maybe Andy has Laser Eyes.
From a visual, both front and rear tires look flat on the ground.
I was told the -2 camber is good for handling and I won't notice any uneven tire wear. I rotate my tires/wheels anyways, so I have no plans on changing my alignment at all. I'm happy with it.
The tech forgot to save the previous specs, but it really doesn't matter since they were all over the place from the coilover install. But Andy actually did a great job eyeballing it, the tech said it really wasn't off that much=) Maybe Andy has Laser Eyes.
From a visual, both front and rear tires look flat on the ground.
I was told the -2 camber is good for handling and I won't notice any uneven tire wear. I rotate my tires/wheels anyways, so I have no plans on changing my alignment at all. I'm happy with it.
Enough with the tech speak John, you've got to keep the mechanical descriptions in Layman's terms =)
- Location
- brooklyn, ny
yeah, that's about what it looked like, only the rear bumpstop was black 
ok, bolts I used are made by SPC, the front most rear arm, the camber adjust, shorter bolt is pn# 72055 and the rear most arm, spring bucket, toe adjust, longer bolt is pn# 72265
both of these are confirmed 100% proper fit, perfect for this aplication and both require slotting the subframe and come with a template for doing so, and you only need one kit of each to do the job. I would recommend picking up one set of each because as you correct camber you also will affect toe so you may wind up needing both even if you think your only problem right now is camber. these bolts each affect the other, in other words the front bolt does mostly camber but also changes toe somewhat as it adjusts camber and the rear bolt is the same, mostly affects toe but also affects camber in it's adjustment so they have to be adjusted together
-2deg on the camber is not horrible but it is a bit much on a daily driver.... unless you're a very agressive driver and always beating it hard through turns and stuff... I'm a pretty agressive driver and I tuned my fx for performance and I was running around -1.8 in the rear myself so your -2 really isn't so horrible... again for an average daily though I would want ~-1.5 ideally as a max which itself is already right past the outer limits of factory spec, think the factory spec calls for no more than -1.3 on the agressive side of factory spec
also, as far as the alignment, I too use hunter equiptment... there is an adapter that is necissary to fit the sensors to larger wheels, when I did my 22's the adapter was necissary to fit the 22's... well when I went to do these 24's even with the adapter it was still not big enough to grab both edges of the 24's, I winded up having to borrow another set of these adapters from another alignment shop and use 2 adapters on each sensor, 2 sets of adapters to do this alignment with the 24's... I imagine someone who does 24's more often already has 2 sets of these adapters, I'm assuming your guy did?
ok, bolts I used are made by SPC, the front most rear arm, the camber adjust, shorter bolt is pn# 72055 and the rear most arm, spring bucket, toe adjust, longer bolt is pn# 72265
both of these are confirmed 100% proper fit, perfect for this aplication and both require slotting the subframe and come with a template for doing so, and you only need one kit of each to do the job. I would recommend picking up one set of each because as you correct camber you also will affect toe so you may wind up needing both even if you think your only problem right now is camber. these bolts each affect the other, in other words the front bolt does mostly camber but also changes toe somewhat as it adjusts camber and the rear bolt is the same, mostly affects toe but also affects camber in it's adjustment so they have to be adjusted together
-2deg on the camber is not horrible but it is a bit much on a daily driver.... unless you're a very agressive driver and always beating it hard through turns and stuff... I'm a pretty agressive driver and I tuned my fx for performance and I was running around -1.8 in the rear myself so your -2 really isn't so horrible... again for an average daily though I would want ~-1.5 ideally as a max which itself is already right past the outer limits of factory spec, think the factory spec calls for no more than -1.3 on the agressive side of factory spec
also, as far as the alignment, I too use hunter equiptment... there is an adapter that is necissary to fit the sensors to larger wheels, when I did my 22's the adapter was necissary to fit the 22's... well when I went to do these 24's even with the adapter it was still not big enough to grab both edges of the 24's, I winded up having to borrow another set of these adapters from another alignment shop and use 2 adapters on each sensor, 2 sets of adapters to do this alignment with the 24's... I imagine someone who does 24's more often already has 2 sets of these adapters, I'm assuming your guy did?
Good info as always.
I'm guessing so -- he does a lot of 24's, all being Hummer & Range Rovers in Chicago. He said he can't perfectly balance 24's, actually only up to 20's, because his arm doesn't go far enough for the roadforce measurement?
Anyways, he did say, he would have to spend another $40,000 to get 24's perfect in his shop, which he said he might eventually have to do because he's seeing so many 22's and 24's.
Any words of wisdom on finding a guy who can do 24's balanced perfectly?
I'm guessing so -- he does a lot of 24's, all being Hummer & Range Rovers in Chicago. He said he can't perfectly balance 24's, actually only up to 20's, because his arm doesn't go far enough for the roadforce measurement?
Anyways, he did say, he would have to spend another $40,000 to get 24's perfect in his shop, which he said he might eventually have to do because he's seeing so many 22's and 24's.
Any words of wisdom on finding a guy who can do 24's balanced perfectly?
- Location
- brooklyn, ny
yeah if he's used to doing 24's then he already knows this, my alignment guys have never done 24's before and had no idea what was necissary before I got into this
for mount and balance I used another tire guy who doesn't have road force balance but does have pretty high end mounting and balancing machines and he does pretty well with these... desilvias are very good with only a very very slight hint of vibration ~ that 60mph mark, barely percievable, don't think he even notices it... what I'd consider good considering there huge 24" wheels... I don't know anyone who can do roadforce balancing on 24's though...
for mount and balance I used another tire guy who doesn't have road force balance but does have pretty high end mounting and balancing machines and he does pretty well with these... desilvias are very good with only a very very slight hint of vibration ~ that 60mph mark, barely percievable, don't think he even notices it... what I'd consider good considering there huge 24" wheels... I don't know anyone who can do roadforce balancing on 24's though...
Got it. He says the 10" wide + 24" diameter = the arm won't extend/come down to push down the rolling pin for the road force. He get can it to spin etc... but won't spit out a road force measurement.
I have exactly that at 55-60 mph, you only notice it if you take your hand off the steering wheel you see it slightly shake.
I have exactly that at 55-60 mph, you only notice it if you take your hand off the steering wheel you see it slightly shake.
Some photos I stole from John:
thinking of doing this upgrade to my KIDO coilovers. did you have to shave the bump stop to get the dust boot to work? the stock bump stop is a lot smaller
Thanks!
Hey guys quick question. My rear pass side bump stop keeps getting destroyed like every 4 days. I replaced my rear strut and it blew again I believe. Getting loud metal to metal noises on the rear passenger side. Will these new bump stops John is referring to hold up better and make the noise go away. I also got the rear purges removed in the back so car is sitting pretty low. Odd thing also is the drivers rear bump stop didn't get destroyed or did the strut blow. It's sitting lower on the rear drivers side then pass side why is that. Any help. Thanks