Replacing Engine Drive Belts

TekneeK

Member
Location
Dallas, TX
I just wanted to know if this was something I could do on my own or if it's better off serviced at the dealership? The dealership is charging me $160 to get this done but if it's cost efficient for a DIY i rather go in that route. Any input will help. Thanks.
 
Not Hard to do at all...should only take you 30-40 minutes max.
look at my first post....should also tells you the proper size.

///6894
 
$160 is not cost efficient. $45 for belts at autozone, 30 minutes of your time, apply proper tension to the new belts after installation and 26 ft/lbs of torque to the pulley bolts. now that's efficient.
 
$160 is not cost efficient. $45 for belts at autozone, 30 minutes of your time, apply proper tension to the new belts after installation and 26 ft/lbs of torque to the pulley bolts. now that's efficient.

Haha thanks & your totally right. i searched the .org site & found it to be a very easy DIY. I'm just concerned about putting the correct pressure on the belts. Maybe Stu can help me out? :smile (2):
 
Wow can't believe I asked this 10 months ago & still haven't changed out my belt! Just wanted to confirm that part #4060465 is correct for a '04 FX Goodyear GatorBack belt. Autozone & Pep Boys don't carry these anymore so I had to order it online. Thanks Stu on willing to help me with this.
 
probably but they will probably cost more than discountfleetsupply.com

And yes there are two belts


O Reilly only had the ac, power steering & alternator belts. Guess I'm gonna order them. How long did it take for them to arrive? Also does anyone know the other part # for the gatorbelt i need? & yea Stu i think it would be best just to do both.
 
It should end with digits 40372 for the accessory belt. If you check Gates website...they will give a directory of suppliers. There should be another place around you that has them...or I have an extra set of brand new ones if your interested??
 
Yeah we might as well do both. Sounds like most people had the smaller belt start to crack first.
It took less than 10 minutes to do. You don't have to pull the bottom cover it's pretty easy to do from the top. Just loosen the two tensioner pully center bolts a little then back out the adjuster bolts directly under the tensioner pulleys. Swap out the belts and tighten tensioner bolts till you can only twist the belt by hand about a quarter turn then tighten center bolts of tensioner pulleys. You don't want to over tighten them or you could cause bearing damage to one of the components run by the belts.
If either belt squeels repeat adjustment by loosening center bolt and tightening tensioner bolt just a little more.
 
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It took less than 10 minutes to do. You don't have to pull the bottom cover it's pretty easy to do from the top. Just loosen the two tensioner pully center bolts a little then back out the adjuster bolts directly under the tensioner pulleys. Swap out the belts and tighten tensioner bolts till you can only twist the belt by hand about a quarter turn then tighten center bolts of tensioner pulleys. You don't want to over tighten them or you could cause bearing damage to one of the components run by the belts.
If either belt squeels just tighten it a little more.
I dropped the cover just to make it easier to get at the tension adjuster bolts. With the engine still hot, it's not fun to be running your fingers around just anywhere. Tightened them back down until they felt the same as before, and similar to mine. I noticed the bigger belt was a little looser.
 
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