Wheel Spacer Questions

DaChoZn1

Member
Location
Houston, TX
Yes, I did a search before posting.

I've done my home work by reading several postings here on this topic. From what I've gathered, most members are using Ichiba or H&R spacers. However, I still have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answers to.

I've read a few members using/recommending 25mm spacers up front and 20mm for the rear. I'm leaning toward V1 or DRS types instead of the plug & play.

1st Question: Since I can't seem to find Ichiba V1 or H&R DRS in 25mm, I'm assuming that members using 25mm spacers are using V2 or DRM for the fronts?

2nd Question: Since OEM wheel studs are 30mm. From what I've read, If I were to go with 25mm front, 20mm rear, my new studs need to be 55mm front, 50mm rear. Is this correct?

3rd Question: Do either Ichiba or H&R spacers come with the corrected stud length needed? In my case 55mm for 25mm spacers, 50mm for 20mm spacer.

I'd appreciate any information you guys may provide. I'm ready to make my purchase but want to avoid any potential headaches with the installation. Thank you in advance.
 
I used to use 15mm H&R spacers. H&R's make spacers with studs already included with the appropriate length dependent on the size of the spacer.
 
To add to the "Wheel Spacer Question":
I am looking at getting some H&R DRS 20mm - 5/114.3 wheel spacers from:
http://www.optionimports.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=HR4065662&eq=&Tp=

Is there another vendor that anyone would refer due to cost/service experiences?

Also, the item states this paragraph:
"Depending on model, axle and year, Nissan vehicles have different diameters in the shoulder of the studs.The wheel spacers shown in the catalog will be supplied with shoulder bolts d = 14.15.If you need d = 12.5, please add a "1" at the end of the PN."

Would I need the 14.15 or the 12.5? Or what/how would I check to determine this so I don't have to ask? :) Thanks.

Thanks!
 
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I believe the "d" you're refering to is the thread pitch. Ours is 12.5.


I got a set of Ichiba 20mm spacers with a new set of longer wheel lugs for under $200 shipped (from ebay) and they have worked great for me.

I got a local Brakes Plus to charge me hourly for labor, and they installed spacers, new lugs, pads, and rotors for $150.
 
Well... I ordered them from Stillen's site last Friday. It did not give me the option of either 12.5 or 14.15. H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers (HR4065662)
$225 shipped. I guess we will see what shows up.
 
There are different types of spacers. Slide on without new studds, bolt on with built in studds, slide on with new studds.

http://www.hrsprings.com/products/trak/

Slide on without new studds are usually up to 10mm, too thick without new studds can reduce the amount of thread available and take away from the original hub. Eibach used to be one of the few with a 10mm spacer.

Bolt on with built in studds are pretty much plug and play as long as the spacer thickness does not interfere with the wheel mounting. If the oem studds or the new bolt on lugs are not flush or recessed the wheel won't mount correctly.

Slide on with new studds require knocking out the old studd and pressing in new ones. Knurl diameter becomes an issue because you want it to be right. Too small and the lug might spin the studd once torqued down. Spinning studd is pita.
 
Yes, I did a search before posting.

I've done my home work by reading several postings here on this topic. From what I've gathered, most members are using Ichiba or H&R spacers. However, I still have a few questions that I haven't been able to find the answers to.

I've read a few members using/recommending 25mm spacers up front and 20mm for the rear. I'm leaning toward V1 or DRS types instead of the plug & play.

1st Question: Since I can't seem to find Ichiba V1 or H&R DRS in 25mm, I'm assuming that members using 25mm spacers are using V2 or DRM for the fronts?

2nd Question: Since OEM wheel studs are 30mm. From what I've read, If I were to go with 25mm front, 20mm rear, my new studs need to be 55mm front, 50mm rear. Is this correct?

3rd Question: Do either Ichiba or H&R spacers come with the corrected stud length needed? In my case 55mm for 25mm spacers, 50mm for 20mm spacer.

I'd appreciate any information you guys may provide. I'm ready to make my purchase but want to avoid any potential headaches with the installation. Thank you in advance.

I definitely suggest doing the 25's in the front and the 20's in the rear. The front fenders set the front Tires/wheels back just a hair more.
 
I got the spacers installed. They worked like a champ. The hardest part was removing my wheels and rear rotors. I banged on those rear rotors with a rubber mallet forever. (Wheel removal took forever because of the powder coat but that's in another thread.)

I definitely suggest doing the 25's in the front and the 20's in the rear.
I chose 20mm all around but for sure could have fit 25mm in the front.
 
I got the spacers installed. They worked like a champ. The hardest part was removing my wheels and rear rotors. I banged on those rear rotors with a rubber mallet forever. (Wheel removal took forever because of the powder coat but that's in another thread.)


I chose 20mm all around but for sure could have fit 25mm in the front.

Been there, my best friend became Anti-seize. Just use very little where you don't want metal/metal contact to stick. Works wonders on when your wheels get stuck to the rotor too after a winter season (at least for me).
Amazon.com: Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant 133K, 8 oz Brush-Top Bottle: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41pYC-YiqsL.@@AMEPARAM@@41pYC-YiqsL
 
I got the spacers installed. They worked like a champ. The hardest part was removing my wheels and rear rotors. I banged on those rear rotors with a rubber mallet forever. (Wheel removal took forever because of the powder coat but that's in another thread.)


I chose 20mm all around but for sure could have fit 25mm in the front.

I also did 20's all around since then wished I had done 25's in the front......
 
Been there, my best friend became Anti-seize. Just use very little where you don't want metal/metal contact to stick. Works wonders on when your wheels get stuck to the rotor too after a winter season (at least for me).

I'll have to pick some of that up. My wheels were stuck because the powder coater lined the inside the hub hole too much thus making the hole too small for the hub. So, the wheels were basically pressed on. I sanded the really bad one last night after I finally got it off. I need use some of that anti-seize next time I pull them off. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
what is the purpose of wheel spacers, why wouldnt u just get a rim that fits? Might sound stupid but i have no idea why u would use them

companies mass produce wheels to fit more than one car. they produce certain offsets that fit all - but not ideal for all.

Of course it's better to get a rim with the correct offset, but not always an option. High end wheels like HRE, iForged, etc... you can get it custom made to any offset -- at a price.
 
Also, If you are running stock 20's, you generally like what you have and you can't afford the upgrade, using spacers to push your OEMs out to the wheel well lip looks much, much better at a fraction of the cost of the upgrade......Time for rubber? Upgrade to 275/45 tires for a little more meat on your stockers. Of course then you will HAVE to get lowering springs. Its all connected you know......
 
I'm looking into buying spacers I got a drop if I get 25mm on all rims is there a possibility I would rub in the front any help on what to do and what to go with let me knows thanks
 
I'm looking into buying spacers I got a drop if I get 25mm on all rims is there a possibility I would rub in the front any help on what to do and what to go with let me knows thanks

Mike your gona need 25mm spacers in the front and 15mm in the rear.I have extra spacers if you want.

I have the 25mm in front. If you wanted to see.


Sent from my iPhone
 
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