to do the steering wheel controls, I had to remove the airbag and steering wheel. The actual controls are held on by a screw onto the steering wheel with one screw each.
Its actually not hard to get the airbag off or steering wheel. I need to redo one the left steering wheel control since i messed up on it (it was the first thing i wrapped and ended up overstretching the material which put a whole in it) and patched it up, but it doesn't look good enough for me. I'll make a DIY later tonight.
As for the steering wheel lettering, I might try having the gf write them back in with a silver fine point sharpie or something.
EDIT: Actually this is easier.
http://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...ight-steering-wheel-controls-03-04-coupe.html specifically post #3 and 4