Meguiar's G110v2

Andrew is FAR more qualified to respond that me, but if you're a newb to detailing, I'd suggest you consider a random orbiting model. Otherwise you run the risk of significant "burning" and that will suck for sure!
 
^I have a lot of their products. Unfortunately the store that carried them near me closed so I never got to check the orbital out. Looks like it's a decent price.
 
I already ordered from amazon and received it. I heard that the meguiar's is a good machine especially for newbs like me wanting to learn, I also ordered some m105 and m205 with 5 1/2" lake county flat pads (orange, white, and black).
 
fxlr8 said:
I already ordered from amazon and received it. I heard that the meguiar's is a good machine especially for newbs like me wanting to learn, I also ordered some m105 and m205 with 5 1/2" lake county flat pads (orange, white, and black).
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That's a good start, especially since it's your first time using a DA polisher. I would of recommended the lake country pads also. You'll probably be using the LC orange and white pads mostly. Here's what I would do. After washing and claying your car, use the m105 on LC orange pad. Work in 2x2 or 3x3 sections and do the entire car. Then use the m205 on the LC white pad. Again, work in 2x2 or 3x3 sections. Since you probably will get alot of dusting, you may want to wash the car again and then put on a coat of wax or sealant.

Here are a few tips:
1. keep one pad dedicated to one polish. For example, you can use the orange pad to apply m105 or m205, but try not to use the same pad for both. I mark the sides of my pads with a sharpie so i don't get them mixed up.
2. the amount of pressure to apply when polishing with your DA will come with experience. As a start, try about 15-20 lbs of pressure.
3. the number of "runs" (criss-cross) to make will depend on the polish/compound you are using and how "fast/slow" you are moving. The goal is to stop when the polish is "broken-down." For m105 and m205, this is usually about 5-6 passes (1 pass = a complete horizontal pass). Usually, the polish is clear when it is properly broken down.

I can't think of anymore at this moment, but If you run into any issues let me know and I'll help out. If you live nearby Cerritos, you can even stop by if you have any problems.

Good luck and welcome to the detail world!
 
good info, any idea on what settings I should be using per pad

thanks

Sent from my Droid
 
I haven't used this specific Meguiar brand, but I know it's comparable to Porter Cable. With porter cable, I start at speed 3, then work my way up to speeds 4 or 5 (max is speed 6 with PC) and finish off back at speed 3. I believe that would be comparable to somewhere around 3000 to 6000 OPM for the Meguiars. Try starting off at around 3000-3500, work your way up to 5000-6000, then finish off back around 3000 for the final pass. Although the DA polishers don't generate heat like the rotarys, I have rarely needed to use the max power to correct the paint. You're probably better off working your way up to 5500 or 6000 and reworking the area if the scratches remain.
 
Just found the speed settings


  • Speed Setting 1 - 1800 opm
  • Speed Setting 2 - 2800 opm
  • Speed Setting 3 - 3800 opm
  • Speed Setting 4 - 4800 opm
  • Speed Setting 5 - 5800 opm
  • Speed Setting 6 - 6800 opm
speed-settings-g110v2.jpg
 

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City said:
Andrew is FAR more qualified to respond that me, but if you're a newb to detailing, I'd suggest you consider a random orbiting model. Otherwise you run the risk of significant "burning" and that will suck for sure!
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DA (dual-action) polishers are very similar to the Random Orbital in that they are designed to not burn the paint, even in the hands of beginners. (Actually, most people use the terms interchangeably.) The center of the buffing pad lies offset to the center of the polisher and sort of "orbits" around as it spins, meaning it doesn't generate nearly as much heat between the pad and the paint to actually "burn" it. With improper use of a DA/RO, you may get some micro-marring (blurryness), but this is nothing to worry about because using a light abrasive polish (such as m205 or Menzerna po85rd, and other final polish products) on the buffer will remove the marring 100% and bring back the shine. Only circular/rotary buffers generate enough heat to leave permanant damage to the paint. But I'll tell you this. I've even purposely tried to burn the paint of a scrap hood that I have using my Makita (rotary) just to see how much heat will burn the paint and I was very surprised. I had to put a good amount of pressure with a wool pad (most aggressive pad) and crank the speed up to about 4000, and stay in one area to actually start seeing smoke. But I say this with some caution because rotary polishers are still very aggressive and can do more damage than good in the wrong hands. :wink:
 
great results, I'm always too chicken to buff and worry of burning thru the paint. some day, I'll have to start. any chance of getting the entire car shot?
 
wow your paint looks greatt!! if you want some before shots i can just snap some of my swirled up sapphire for you :embarrassed::zip:
 
Beautiful!! Jealous that you took the plunge and decided to do the work yourself. Someday I'll try as well.
 
Nicely done. It looks like you still got some of the deeper swirl marks left by the look of your second picture. Its a good start though. If the swirls aren't removed, try moving a little slower while putting a little more pressure with the polisher. If you do this 2 or 3 times and the swirls are still there, chances are that you'll need the rotary to remove it. Or, try using a more aggressive compound/pad combo.

Also, pictures can look different depending on what you focus on. If you focus on the reflection or the pigments of the paint, the paint will look emaculate. But if you focus on the surface of the clearcoat, you can see a ton of swirls on the same surface. It took me a month to figure out how to take the pictures to focus on the clear coat, and not on the reflection or the paint. But anyway, very good job on your first try.
 
looks good and im sure it is worth the pain! i got some ibuprofen 800 if you want :tongue:.

thanks also for the tips and info so far. after years of doing things by hand, i should invest in one of these polishers.
 
soonster said:
great results, I'm always too chicken to buff and worry of burning thru the paint. some day, I'll have to start. any chance of getting the entire car shot?
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I will try and take one this weekend.

ghettojiggalo said:
looks good, did you take any b4 shots to compare?

i need to get rid of the swirls on my car too.
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no, didn't take any

pmanliu said:
wow your paint looks greatt!! if you want some before shots i can just snap some of my swirled up sapphire for you :embarrassed::zip:
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Thanks, yup I had tons of swirls before.

aiya said:
Beautiful!! Jealous that you took the plunge and decided to do the work yourself. Someday I'll try as well.
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Thanks, the whole time I was doing it...I kept thinking "I should of just brought it to a detailer." But glad I didn't, it is a learning process and I am sure I will get better with time.

IvoRoyfx35 said:
Nicely done. It looks like you still got some of the deeper swirl marks left by the look of your second picture. Its a good start though. If the swirls aren't removed, try moving a little slower while putting a little more pressure with the polisher. If you do this 2 or 3 times and the swirls are still there, chances are that you'll need the rotary to remove it. Or, try using a more aggressive compound/pad combo.

Also, pictures can look different depending on what you focus on. If you focus on the reflection or the pigments of the paint, the paint will look emaculate. But if you focus on the surface of the clearcoat, you can see a ton of swirls on the same surface. It took me a month to figure out how to take the pictures to focus on the clear coat, and not on the reflection or the paint. But anyway, very good job on your first try.
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I do have some swirls left, I tried a few times on the hood and the swirls would not completely go away, do you have any recommendations on a pad/compound combo?

mtbfx said:
looks good and im sure it is worth the pain! i got some ibuprofen 800 if you want :tongue:.

thanks also for the tips and info so far. after years of doing things by hand, i should invest in one of these polishers.
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I did take 4 200mg of ibuprofen after.

I would invest in one....speeds up the whole process and you get better results.
 
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