Jumbo Boost

still too hard to guess at an actual price, so many details can change things so much, such as what wideband?, gauges installed? is this including the ceramic coat or is that seperate? there are just soo many factors in determining an actual price, but, as a pretty vauge & wild guess I'd have to say probably in the $3,500 range for labor & fabrication maybe + parts? guess that could be $500-$800 up or down from there too....
 
Understand it's a tough estimate. It's all good though. I think the quote is fair but I know better than to speak too soon. Changes, problems, parts - a lot could change the bottom line. I recognize that I am going to pay more than the lowest bid to make sure I get quality.

Even though there is a definite expense involved here, I can only imagine the satisfaction of having it complete. Don't think I've made a commitment like this very often - heart, time and money.

Besides meeting my moderate power goals and building the machine I envision, I refuse to have any kind of buyer's remorse. Once that check is written, it's water under the bridge. I'm doing this because I want it more than anything I can remember back to the time when I was a kid and just HAD to have that bike, computer, whatever. Same "birthday-like" feeling. And I'm sure taking it to the strip for a few 1/4 mile passes will give me a shot of adrenaline too. Looking forward to it.
 
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if it was mine I'd probably want to go with either one 44mm or two 38's. since your not twin scroll then one wastegate would be fine & not a problem to do if you really just wanted to do one, doesn't matter so much that it's comming from 2 different banks, that is not a problem really if you wanted to do a single gate, it can be done correctly. space & dumps would be the determining factor as to which was the better choice, either one or two, a single 38 will probably do the job fine but may be seeing some boost creep at low boost would be my fear so I'd up it to a 44 to be sure. you def will not outflow one 44 with even halfway decent placement & very low boost. a 38 may do fine, a 44 is 100% sure thing though
 
I put the question to the shop and this was the response:

"I've regulated a GT4294R on the same turbo system layout with an old school tial 2-bolt 38mm to 10psi, and the new MVS systems flow more, your turbo moves less air at more PSI than that 4294, so i haven't the slightest doubt that it will regulate itself perfectly fine."

Given that along with Turbocad's thinking, sounds like 38mm is sized appropriately for my application/goals.
 
After going to a local meet this weekend, I met a guy with a custom FI set-up in his Mazda. He offered to take me for a ride to feel it out and the entire time we were talking about my system, he was telling me to go bigger on the turbo.

I thought I was being smart by undersizing the turbo to shape my whole setup for the bottom end and hole shot. Of course, I've never owned a FI car before so I was sort of going that direction blind.

The guy I met at the meet explained about the efficiency range of the turbo and how I'd be missing a lot of it. Already moving at highway speeds, the smaller turbo would choke at the top end and power will drop off, meaning I have no power on the highway - a big minus. Guess I'm trying to find that value point - gains vs cost. I'm trying to keep my engine safe as well, but the tune will have to be my first line of defense.

Since the 35R is only about $300 more than the 3076, it sort of seems like a no-brainer. Wonder if I have to go bigger on the wastegate now...
 
I would do a bigger wastegate you sexy thing you :D

Got a question for you Jumbo. Are you doing stainless or aluminum piping for your setup? Im glad you decided to go with the Haltech btw.
 
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Chinke82 said:
I would do a bigger wastegate you sexy thing you :D

Got a question for you Jumbo. Are you doing stainless or aluminum piping for your setup? Im glad you decided to go with the Haltech btw.
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lol - funny dude. Yes, going with the 44mm wastegate now.

All piping on the hot side is stainless - not positive about the cold side.

turbocad6 said:
what he said^^^, minus the sexy thing part:tongue: 44mm to be safe... or 2 38's...
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Hey - why "minus the sexy thing"? It's all good, Turbo - we're all close here on IS...lol.

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EDIT:

Had a long conversation with Turbo this evening about a couple different things, but related to this thread was fuel pressure. More specifically, boost referenced fuel pressure - so as the boost pressure rises, the fuel pressure rises an equal amount. I put the question to my installer, asking if he was addressing it somehow.

I'll get the answer tomorrow when I'm dropping off payment for all the parts!
 
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40psi fuel pressure on NA would always be 40# plus at the injector available for fuel delivery through the injector, but the same 40# fuel pressure with FI at say 15psi of boost only has the potential of ~25psi absolute fuel pressure, the boost is canceling out some of the fuel potential... raising the fuel pressure just keeps the same fuel potential available to the injector under boost. if it was always very high it would be harder to regulate idle quality, especially with larger injectors, don't forget that at idle there is ~15" or more of vacuum in the manifold too, you don't want very high fuel pressure at idle...
 
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turbocad6 said:
40psi fuel pressure on NA would always be 40# plus at the injector available for fuel delivery through the injector, but the same 40# fuel pressure with FI at say 15psi of boost only has the potential of ~25psi absolute fuel pressure, the boost is canceling out some of the fuel potential... raising the fuel pressure just keeps the same fuel potential available to the injector under boost. if it was always very high it would be harder to regulate idle quality, especially with larger injectors, don't forget that at idle there is ~15" or more of vacuum in the manifold too, you don't want very high fuel pressure at idle...
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Ahh, good call. Interesting.
 
injector flow rate is measured & spec'd at ~44psi normally by the manufacturer, so without a boost referenced fuel system & while under bost the injectors will never be able to even meet the listed flow rate too...
 
Short answer from the shop was that there was no plan to run a boost referenced system unless I was also installing a fuel return system. The GTR injectors are good to 550whp and since my goals top out around 400whp, the idea is that the injectors can compensate for the boost pressure via the tune.

That being said, the shop suggested they look into it more closely with the new turbo sizing I have now changed up to. I told them if the way to do it right includes a fuel return system and a boost referenced fuel pressure - that's what I want. We'll talk more in detail about it after the weekend.
 
to run a boost referenced fuel system a return system would be absolutely necissay really. not looking to debate or anything, but from a quick google the GTR does use a fuel return system, & the GTR uses a fuel pump control module that varies the fuel pressure too... at 12psi of boost the GTR is seeing ~60 psi fuel pressure... the GTR injectors may be good for 550 hp, but the rest of the fuel sysytem has to be there for it to support that, just a walbro alone does not a great fuel system make.... I'd be afraid to run 10-12psi of boost & just have the fuel pressure at ~40 psi gage pressure
 
Still waiting on a response about the fuel system and pressure regulation. I dump a short list of questions on my installer almost daily - don't want to bug him too much.
Expect something from Tial pretty soon as well. Dropping my car off on the 8th for all the fitment and measurements to be worked out for the hot/cold side piping and intercooler setup.

Got a tracking number for the Haltech and all the add-ons:
Platinum Pro ECU/Harness System - HT053001
Wideband controller and sensor - HT010704
GM style intake air temp system - HT010200
Haltech boost control system - HT020400
ECU supplemental pins (2 units) - HT030050

As of today - 04/07, all this stuff is in Houston. Guessing it will be delivered tomorrow.
 
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turbocad6 said:
how much was each haltech item & where did you get them?
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I asked my installer to line out all the items so that I could try to do better on price through some connections I have in town. I could do slightly better on the prices - but really not that much. After doing due diligence for price searching, I decided it was best for me to just let the shop handle buying all the parts. Plus - installer will only warranty parts he purchases.

Platinum Pro ECU/Harness System - $2000
Wideband controller and sensor - $250
GM style intake air temp system - $75
Haltech boost control system - $100
ECU supplemental pins (2 units) -?

Dropped off my FX this morning - installer has it for the next nine days to iron out dimensions and fitment.
 
Ok I am guessing you went with JTran. Powerfab wanted to boost my 45. I politely declined lol.

Since I am local I'll see it evetually and till then I hope everything goes well. I'll also keep checking this thread for your updates.
 
Stu's right - I chose Powerfab. I actually wanted to deal with JTran, but a little drama not worth talking about sort of steered me away. JTran stopped returning my emails so I sort of gave up.

I should mention that since JTran did my ECU tune, I have not been able to get a state inspection done - the inspector's computer can't connect to my ECU. Kind of frustrating, but I have Powerfab taking care of that since they have the car.
 
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