Install New Shocks, Struts and H&R Springs

thnx guys so the rear right worked fine after jacking up slowly and took the bolt out.. But i ran into the biggest problem with the two rear left side bolts, one for the shock the bottom 17mm and the spring carrie bolt..
They just wouldnt come loose, sprayed pb-blaster, tryed breaker bar, i got 450lb Milwaukee impact wrench battery powered didnt help on this side.. I stripped both bolt heads badly.. Im frustrated!!

---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------

Also can i drive the car with the oem spring/old shock only on rear left, all the other sides new hr springs/struts-shocks....?
 
Dracula said:
thnx guys so the rear right worked fine after jacking up slowly and took the bolt out.. But i ran into the biggest problem with the two rear left side bolts, one for the shock the bottom 17mm and the spring carrie bolt..
They just wouldnt come loose, sprayed pb-blaster, tryed breaker bar, i got 450lb Milwaukee impact wrench battery powered didnt help on this side.. I stripped both bolt heads badly.. Im frustrated!!

---------- Post added at 08:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------

Also can i drive the car with the oem spring/old shock only on rear left, all the other sides new hr springs/struts-shocks....?
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If they are stripped you may have to cut them off and get some new bolts/nuts. Were you using 12 point socket if so just a tip always try to use a 6 point socket on difficult bolts they are much less likely to strip heads.
 
i always use 6 point socket, i have a feeling the dealer overtorqued the bolts when thet changed my rear subframe, couldnt believe how my 450lb impact would not loosen it up..
 
Did anyone feel increase in torque after the spring install? maybe less wind resistance?
 
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Thanks for the writeup. I am doing this install now and since I live in New England pretty much all the nuts/bolts are frozen/corroded. Is it completely necessary to remove the caliper? Or could I get away with leaving it on.

Right now I am stuck getting the sway bar link nut off... And I am going to have to order some new ones anyhow. Thanks in advance MTN.
 
You don't have to take the caliper off. As matter of fact, use a couple jack stand to support the knuckle with the rotor and caliper as one unit once you loosen the two 22mm strut bolts. Yeah, the sway bar link ends will be a pain. I had to hack saw it off a couple of times already. If you're taking the spring off the struts yourself, be very careful because it will cause some serious injury if the spring press is not used correctly. Also when taking the spring off, watch out for the strut bearing to fall out and the bee bee will be every where.
 
Yeah, he did. I also put install it on a member's 35 when I did his H&R about two years ago. Still going strong.
 
Just installed some H&R springs that i got off of tchuck. Just in case any newbie is wondering about this. - I suck at any automotive work (barely know how to change my own oil). Completion time: 5 hours. Complexity: 3/10. No injuries ;) great DIY!
 
zebra555 said:
^Congrats:good: Got any pictures?
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yulolimum said:
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Dont forget to get an alignment about a month after install and again in a year because as the springs settle camber and toe will change.

---------- Post added at 01:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------
MTN FX said:
Dont forget to get an alignment about a month after install and again in a year because as the springs settle camber and toe will change.
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Or your tires will look like this....
View attachment 179975
 
can someone help me, i forgot how to correctly put the rear shock heads on. Where does the bump stop go and the washer? What is the order of install.
 
MTN FX said:
Dont forget to get an alignment about a month after install and again in a year because as the springs settle camber and toe will change.

---------- Post added at 01:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:21 PM ----------


Or your tires will look like this....
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I read somewhere that if the springs were used, you'ld just need to get an alignment right away since the springs are already broken in. I got mine done a day after install. SHould i still consider an alignment in a month? I think it's a 6 month warranty with Sears.
 
MTN FX said:
Dont forget to get an alignment about a month after install and again in a year because as the springs settle camber and toe will change.Or your tires will look like this....
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This is important. Last year after the coils install, I was lazy and did not go all summer without and alignment and I just spend almost $500 on a set of new front tires. :disapointed:
 
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