Bracing advice please!

Got some questions for you guys.

I am thinking of getting the rear lateral bracing, rear lower tie and front ladder bracing. I already have the NGR STB.

Will these make the car too stiff? Is it better to have both the front and rear similar stiffness for handling?

Will my setup cause unbalanced struct stiffness between front and rear or should be fine?

Any input is welcome. :)

Thanks,
 
Got some questions for you guys.

I am thinking of getting the rear lateral bracing, rear lower tie and front ladder bracing. I already have the NGR STB.

Will these make the car too stiff? Is it better to have both the front and rear similar stiffness for handling?

Will my setup cause unbalanced struct stiffness between front and rear or should be fine?

Any input is welcome. :)

Thanks,


I only have the rears currently - and i have no issues. The rears make the rear of the car more "tight" and others have said that its less top heavy.....i have the front pieces and plan on getting them on soon!
 
Thanks Psiclne.

For the front, will the front lower engine tie be more ideal or the front ladder? Should I be doing the installation before or after the wheel alignment?
 
Thanks Psiclne.

For the front, will the front lower engine tie be more ideal or the front ladder? Should I be doing the installation before or after the wheel alignment?

If you get one, get the front lower engine tie.

I would do wheel alignment after install. For rears, I marked the bolts so didn't do an alignment.

At nissan they charge $100 for an alignment, I overdo it but get it done yearly. Specs are typically within range, just fine tuned. Worth any potential bad wear on tires for me.
 
If you get one, get the front lower engine tie.

I would do wheel alignment after install. For rears, I marked the bolts so didn't do an alignment.

At nissan they charge $100 for an alignment, I overdo it but get it done yearly. Specs are typically within range, just fine tuned. Worth any potential bad wear on tires for me.


Any particular reason for going for the engine tie instead of the front ladder?
 
I have noticed a difference in feel after the bracing was installed, but it is for the better. Yes, it feels a little more, "tight" around corners. I've never heard of an owner that did NOT like the brace feel. If you liked what your STB did for you, then you should like the rest of the braces as well.

Definitely get an alignment after the bracing. Around here, all the Firestone centers offer a "lifetime" alignment for under $200. You could take it in every week if you wanted to, for the life of your car.
 
I will get all of them then :.smile:

Hopefully, the bracing will help me reduce some unwanted vibration and make my interior squeak much less.

Thanks for all the helpful info everyone provided in this thread. :tup:
 
They charged me for two hours of labor at the stealership. Which made me feel good and bad, in a way. Good because I tried for three hours to get this thing on and failed even after going to a shop with a lift and an impact wrench. They couldn't break the nuts either. Bad because that translated to about $220. I believe that job shouldn't take more than 30 minutes if you have the proper tools.

Before going to the dealer, I had installed three of the four shoulder bolts and couldn't get the fourth one in because the existing stock brace had moved a little and obstructed the last hole. So the dealer had to break the nuts that I couldn't, then move the stock brace, tighten it down and then install the GT Spec brace.

I did NOT get an alignment because I planned to get the Eibach Springs installed the next day, so that cost wasn't part of installation - and it should be included if you do the full set of bracing, in my opinion.
 
Braces are finally complete and here's my last photo.
IMG_1959.jpg


Thanks to everybody who offered up advice - I'm happy with how it turned out.
 

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So is that like extra labor when you do oil change from now on? Looks like it's in the way of the plastic cover thingy.

It's after the under engine plastic cover so you are good to go. Does not interfere with oil changes.

---------- Post added at 09:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 AM ----------

They charged me for two hours of labor at the stealership. Which made me feel good and bad, in a way. Good because I tried for three hours to get this thing on and failed even after going to a shop with a lift and an impact wrench. They couldn't break the nuts either. Bad because that translated to about $220. I believe that job shouldn't take more than 30 minutes if you have the proper tools.

Before going to the dealer, I had installed three of the four shoulder bolts and couldn't get the fourth one in because the existing stock brace had moved a little and obstructed the last hole. So the dealer had to break the nuts that I couldn't, then move the stock brace, tighten it down and then install the GT Spec brace.

I did NOT get an alignment because I planned to get the Eibach Springs installed the next day, so that cost wasn't part of installation - and it should be included if you do the full set of bracing, in my opinion.

Not bad, sometimes when it's a pain to do it's good just to get it done.
 
Don't Mess with Yohan!
zohan.jpg

---------- Post added at 09:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------



+1...
Get Stillen
or
Get GT-Spec
or
Get Strong (but fckin unnecessarily expensive, up yo a$$) Strut
or
Get GT-Spec, carbon wrap it
or
Get UTR dry carbon (some guy was selling at the .org)
or
.
.
.
.
.
.
.


A strut is a strut. There won't be any significant difference whether you load it or wrap it or it has pivot ends or it's made of alien metals or anything unless you're going with a 4 point strut (which won't fit FX) like the one in 370Z:
zele-z-radiatorshroud-002.jpg


Get an affordable or good looking (or both = GTSpec) Strut brace and combine it with other braces.. THAT will give you the difference.. Not the two-point strut itself..

This is just damn sexy! If I had one installed would keep the engine detailed as much as the exterior!
 

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