turbocad's custom dual/quad headlight mod

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I think I can do it, but with an open diff like we have I think just will smoke one rear wheel... would be a nice thing to do with a limited slip diff though for sure... whenever I get a chance I'll test it out though & let you know...
 
I think both spin equally. If it helps, when I spin one tire with my hand while it's in the air the other wheel spins the opposite direction.
 
I think I can do it, but with an open diff like we have I think just will smoke one rear wheel... would be a nice thing to do with a limited slip diff though for sure... whenever I get a chance I'll test it out though & let you know...

nice nice...I can guinea pig it for you if you'd like haha

I think both spin equally. If it helps, when I spin one tire with my hand while it's in the air the other wheel spins the opposite direction.

same with the AWD
 
the other wheel spinning the other direction don't show anything, most cars with even an open diff will do the same. don't you ever really smoke them? nail it in the rain or snow with traction control off? I'm not expecting them to spin evenly like a good limited slip or locking dif would, just wondering if at least both wheels can be lit up or if it'll just spin one wheel...
 
For me, I think the right side spins more but only because that side of the road is usually the one with water, leaves, etc. so my that tire wore down to 1/32" while the left rear was 2/32". For the most part, they both seem to spin equally.
 
not sure... any rwds, what happens when you spin the rear tires up?

I think one side slips more often then the other. I thought it was the left side but am not sure.
Don't slam the fx that hard honestly. Do on the highway but that's different. When i was in spain and we had to clime steep mountains to come to our house we rented i noticed this often.I'm planning on getting a lock diff with sper as well for my F/I projekt.

John Something else. Concerning the lights......when wanting to smoke the clear corners wich are best to take your recon...??
The OEM amber onces.......or Clears....?? And do you think you can use your current onces as well or will the brownish come true the " Smoke" as well....??
 
the other wheel spinning the other direction don't show anything, most cars with even an open diff will do the same. don't you ever really smoke them? nail it in the rain or snow with traction control off? I'm not expecting them to spin evenly like a good limited slip or locking dif would, just wondering if at least both wheels can be lit up or if it'll just spin one wheel...

it's both i've seen videos online hwere people have done burnouts and stuff in FXs
 
Open differentials will spin in opposite directions. So will Torsen (Quaife) limited slip diffs since they are torque sensitive. I believe with viscous and clutch type, when you spin one wheel the other will either turn in the same direction or remain motionless. Unless the FX uses a different differential than the G or M, it should be an open differential.


I think both spin equally. If it helps, when I spin one tire with my hand while it's in the air the other wheel spins the opposite direction.
 
gotta be an open diff.

ok, another update. I received the new resin. stuff looks nice, almost like a thick liquid glass before it's mixed. it's got way more body than the first stuff I used. the first stuff had the consistency of water almost. I had a lot of trouble even sealing my mold because it would leak out anywhere & everywhere. I used to have to really seal up the mold well by hotglueing all the seems just to keep it from all leaking out before it set up. well this new one is the exact opposite. now, instead of leaking out all over the place this one is just too thick to even fill the mold. it has the consistency of a very thick maple syrup, almost like molasses. I pour a bit in from the top of the mold, it just fills up the beginning of the fill tubes & just stops like it's already full, but it's not, it's just too thick to migrate all the way through the mold & completely fill it. I need to either redo the mold with larger fill & vent tubes or I need to try & get a syringe & develop a way to force it in, injection molding style which would be a challenge in itself. I tried to manipulate it & force it & was only able to get the reflectors filed about 1/2 way. with the first resin the cast would stay soft for a really long time, even a week later I could manipulate it & bend it, but the new stuff is very brittle & hard even just 48 hours later.. it actually shatters & brakes like glass, but that should be ok as once there installed there really not under any stress either, so even if they are like glass they should be ok.

also have another problem. the first watery resin mixed easily & whatever air bubbles developed would be minimal & easily just raise out to the surface & it would clear up after sitting for just a little bit, but this new stuff just is nothing like that... before it's mixed it looks clear as glass but after it's mixed it looks like one of those snow globes... I did research on best methods to mix without over aerating & stuff but this is way beyond that. because the resin is so thick the air bubbles just stay there.. some rise & pop but the bulk do not. when it cures it is not clear at all because of these tiny air bubbles. the solution to this is to buy or build a vacuum chamber. the way a material like this is worked with ideally is mix it, then insert in a vacuum chamber & apply 29" of vacuum to the chamber. the result of this is all the air bubbles are evacuated extremely quickly, it looks like it's boiling & even boiling over when this method is done, & it "boils" till all the air is out of the mix. it'll then be as clear as it was before mixing, & it'd be ready to then pour in the mold & get a crystal clear casting.

I have to get or build a vacuum chamber setup to work with this, only way. I thought maybe even if I couldn't really create a full vacuum chamber effect that maybe some vacuum might help a bit, so I made a makeshift setup with a 5hp shop vac. while that may move way more cfms than necessary it don't build up enough vacuum to really do all that much even in a dead sealed chamber... also found out the hard way that if there is any air leaks in this chamber setup then the vacuum will just suck up the liquid resin because of the airflow... was funny when I filled a 3oz mix, kicked on the vacuum for a second & saw the resin flying all over the chamber I tried to rig up, then turn it off & only have 1.5oz resin left :tongue: sealed it up better & then learned that many canisters will implode or collapse under enough vacuum too. even a thick glass jar can implode under the vacuum that is necessary for this type of thing from what I've heard, through conversations with a friend I've learned that a pressure cook pot or something can be made into a vacuum chamber, many real vacuum chamber setups are like 1/2" thick welded aluminum plate & 1" thick plexi windows... really needs to be stronger than you'd think... also need a good strong vacuum pump that can hit 29" & pull at least 3cfm's...

so far up until now I've been trying to work with materials that did not require degassing with a vacuum setup, but once we move up to more professional & higher end products then an accurate scale for measuring & a degassing setup becomes mandatory for good results... this is def turning into way more work & equipment than I ever thought it would be but this is the only way to do it at this point... now I'll work on putting togeather a proper vacuum chamber setup & continue

I can also test this new resin sample against the original... should be able to put it in an oven & little by little raise the temp & slowly bake it until I can get the original to discolor & start turning brownish beige... if the new one stays clear right along side then this would be a good confirmation that this material will at least do the job once I get past the latest hurdles with using it...
 
picard.jpg
 
The reflector molds are fairly small, for your home made vacuum chamber you can get by with a heavy duty 8Qt. stainless steel stock pot, just drill a tap hole in the side. mm wall thickness will need to be .09 or greater (and a noticeable wall draft will offer better structural integrity) thinner material will collapse under pressure......
 
oh man... we're talking about vacuum chambers now... hey turbo, any openings at your shop for apprentices? :biggrin:
 
I did try vibration to disapate the air bubbles but didn't help a lot... maybe with some of the larger ones they moved & popped a bit quicker but for the majority it just was not effective enough to be very usefull. I also tried vibrating the mold to get it to fill & it helped a little there too, but again not enough to be an adiquate solution by itself & with the mold I'm afraid that it may promote air bubbles too because of all the tiny facets of the rear face of the reflector.


ah, ok logan, so that's what you said was a stock pot not a pressure cooker, knew it was something along those lines :tongue: but then I see 2 things with the stock pot that I'm not sure of. #1 how will I be sealing it up & #2 how will I be able to have a window to see into it. I'm thinking maybe I make a lid for the pot from 1" plexi or something, but then sealing this up seems like it too would take a bit of fabrication, & of course it needs to be easy to open up & reseal too.... this is why I originally thought you were talking about a pressure cooker instead of a stock pot. also I know you said you can show me a way to build this vacuum with a compressor but since I'm doing all my molding stuff at home rather than at the shop I'm going to have to just buy a good vacuum pump anyway really
 
putting together a vacuum chamber build list now and some tips on home injection techniques :) Do you have any extra reflectors you can part with?
 
I did try vibration to disapate the air bubbles but didn't help a lot... maybe with some of the larger ones they moved & popped a bit quicker but for the majority it just was not effective enough to be very usefull. I also tried vibrating the mold to get it to fill & it helped a little there too, but again not enough to be an adiquate solution by itself & with the mold I'm afraid that it may promote air bubbles too because of all the tiny facets of the rear face of the reflector.


ah, ok logan, so that's what you said was a stock pot not a pressure cooker, knew it was something along those lines :tongue: but then I see 2 things with the stock pot that I'm not sure of. #1 how will I be sealing it up & #2 how will I be able to have a window to see into it. I'm thinking maybe I make a lid for the pot from 1" plexi or something, but then sealing this up seems like it too would take a bit of fabrication, & of course it needs to be easy to open up & reseal too.... this is why I originally thought you were talking about a pressure cooker instead of a stock pot. also I know you said you can show me a way to build this vacuum with a compressor but since I'm doing all my molding stuff at home rather than at the shop I'm going to have to just buy a good vacuum pump anyway really

A few years one of our down home pump systems was a prototype stainless waste bin we had designed for the W hotels. It has wavy walls that give it excellent structural integrity and it has held up well. We still use it today BTW the top is an extra thick piece of plex.......I'll PM you the BOM for one of our set-ups and you can decide if you want to test it out.
 
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