got the Unorthodox Racing pulley!

I would say go for it, I don't play my music as loud as I use to, being older of course and I want to be able to hear 20 years from now. this mod is well worth it. I didn't install it myself, but the performance shop I went to took care of it in less than 30 min. Are you running an aftermarket system? Honestly the only issue I could see would be if you were running your system full blast at idle. other than that most altenators wear out over time and need to be replaced at some point. Currently I'm doing good, and I charge my batteries every so often to keep them up, and running to there potential. so this is a good mod unless you plan on going FI.

I dont have a system, but only worry about the A/C not being cold enough. I already the A/C seems colder when drivng vs stopped at light.

Also dont want any head aches about the warranty.

Still, I want to do this.
btw how much was the install? I have the belts already (Gates). I was quoted $120 from LMS.
 
I dont have a system, but only worry about the A/C not being cold enough. I already the A/C seems colder when drivng vs stopped at light.

Also dont want any head aches about the warranty.

Still, I want to do this.
btw how much was the install? I have the belts already (Gates). I was quoted $120 from LMS.
that is the average cost you will get for 1.2-1.5 hrs of work. It took the performance shop less than 30min to complete the job, so it should be less then that quote. I paid 100 to include my tip, because they got me in and out quickly.
 
a good Mod, Thanks E for the pulley...

Nice that it works for you.. :smile: I was one of the unfortunate that had issues with the underdriven pulley... Might go at it again later if I don't sell my FX after August or so..

---------- Post added at 01:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:05 PM ----------

btw, I think my issues were mostly from one of the broken lower plenum bolts and probably a leak on the intake tube.. Was a newbie then.. :smile:
 
everything is great so far, there is a nice even pull in the mid-range area. gassing in/out corners you can feel the FX pull pretty good as well. there is a smoother transition in the rpm revs. So I can imagine the increase in a RWD FX is probably more noticeable. Like I stated before it a mod I'd recommend hands down.
 
Nice that it works for you.. :smile: I was one of the unfortunate that had issues with the underdriven pulley... Might go at it again later if I don't sell my FX after August or so..

Why planning on selling it? You have some great mods on this car.

---------- Post added at 10:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 PM ----------

Cool...unfortunately mine will be up for sale by the end of April lol.

you'll love this mod

Let me know if you are selling yous UR Pulley in April. :winky:

---------- Post added at 10:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 PM ----------

What is the performance difference (disadvantage or advantage) between the stock diameter and the non-stock diameter UR Pulley? Is it recommended to get the full set (crank, AC, Steering) or just the crank pulley is enough?

Sorry, I quite new with FX mods.:smile:
 
What is the performance difference (disadvantage or advantage) between the stock diameter and the non-stock diameter UR Pulley? Is it recommended to get the full set (crank, AC, Steering) or just the crank pulley is enough?

Sorry, I quite new with FX mods.:smile:

and Dee has mine. I sold it to him.. Stock diameter is just lighter. There's no direct power advantages to it except taking off some load from the crank shaft and making rpms a little faster. Underdrive will give you gains all over the range but you'll feel it mostly low and mid range. On the other hand, there's chance it'll put more load on the alternator and your accessories might run a little worse, esp if you're running an aftermarket sound system.. Dee has an aftermarket sound system so I'll let him tell you about the +/-..
 
and Dee has mine. I sold it to him.. Stock diameter is just lighter. There's no direct power advantages to it except taking off some load from the crank shaft and making rpms a little faster. Underdrive will give you gains all over the range but you'll feel it mostly low and mid range. On the other hand, there's chance it'll put more load on the alternator and your accessories might run a little worse, esp if you're running an aftermarket sound system.. Dee has an aftermarket sound system so I'll let him tell you about the +/-..


E, is right on with the underdrive giving you a good feel all over the place. I can feel the difference for sure. as far as my sound system I haven't seen any bad effects yet. I also don't play my system to it full capacity for the most part, and I've yet to run my A/C as well at full blast. I do run a dual battery system, which I use a charger every so often, which does take some load off the alternator by charging the batteries. as of this moment it a good mod to do no problems to report, other then a smoother acceleration and rpm climb...more to follow later.
 
and Dee has mine. I sold it to him.. Stock diameter is just lighter. There's no direct power advantages to it except taking off some load from the crank shaft and making rpms a little faster. Underdrive will give you gains all over the range but you'll feel it mostly low and mid range. On the other hand, there's chance it'll put more load on the alternator and your accessories might run a little worse, esp if you're running an aftermarket sound system.. Dee has an aftermarket sound system so I'll let him tell you about the +/-..

E, is right on with the underdrive giving you a good feel all over the place. I can feel the difference for sure. as far as my sound system I haven't seen any bad effects yet. I also don't play my system to it full capacity for the most part, and I've yet to run my A/C as well at full blast. I do run a dual battery system, which I use a charger every so often, which does take some load off the alternator by charging the batteries. as of this moment it a good mod to do no problems to report, other then a smoother acceleration and rpm climb...more to follow later.

Thanks for the info guys. :.smile:

Will there be advantage of replacing the whole set of pulleys instead of just the crank pulley, such as decrease the load on the alternator?
 
Thanks for the info guys. :.smile:

Will there be advantage of replacing the whole set of pulleys instead of just the crank pulley, such as decrease the load on the alternator?

Replacing the other pulley will add more load to the alternator plus you won't get much additional power (2-3 hp more maybe) from them.. The accessory pulleys are mainly for the looks..
 
I'm a little confused by the talk about an increased load on the alternator if using an underdriven pulley. Doesn't underdriving automatically reduce the load on the alternator by 15-20% (depending on the pulley size)? I understand the electrical demands don't change from stock to underdriven but the alternator puts out a constant level of power. If the demands of the car are greater than the power output of the alternator, you just won't be able to operate those electrical systems. I wouldn't think it would do anything negative to the alternator at all. Underdriving all the system pulleys puts less of a demand on them because it has reduced the number of revolutions of each system pulley for the same crank RPM.
 
Please correct me if I am wrong.

From my understanding is, what powers your electrical system in the vehicle is not the alternator. The battery is powering all the electronic devices, since almost all the electronic devices in the vehicle are running on DC.

Alternator generates AC currents during rotation, and the AC current is converted to DC current through the built-in rectifier in the alternator. That DC current is not constant and it is used to charge the car battery. The current is proportional to the revolution of the alternator coils which is the revolution of the alternator pulley. That's why when your car battery is drained badly after you come back from a long vacation. It is recommended you bring your car to the highway for couple runs to have the alternator charging the battery with higher current.

Therefore, with smaller pulley size, the belt gets to be driven faster and implies more rotation for the alternator (my assumption of smaller gears turns faster, like bicycles) than the stock size pulley. However, your car electrical demand is not as high, therefore, the battery needed not to be charged with such high current. Then that extra energy will be converted to heat and mechanical wear on the alternator due to energy conservation.
 
I believe if you reduce the alternator pulley size, it'd lower the alternator rpm thus increasing its load. The weight savings factor would be insignificant compared to the lost rpms I believe.. If you think that alternator is one huge generator, it's electricity generating capacity is dependent on it's size and it's revolutions per minute..

---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:08 PM ----------

Alternator generates AC currents during rotation, and the AC current is converted to DC current through the built-in rectifier in the alternator. That DC current is not constant and it is used to charge the car battery. The current is proportional to the revolution of the alternator coils which is the revolution of the alternator pulley. That's why when your car battery is drained badly after you come back from a long vacation. It is recommended you bring your car to the highway for couple runs to have the alternator charging the battery with higher current.


beat me to it :smile:

Therefore, with smaller pulley size, the belt gets to be driven faster and implies more rotation for the alternator (my assumption of smaller gears turns faster, like bicycles) than the stock size pulley. However, your car electrical demand is not as high, therefore, the battery needed not to be charged with such high current. Then that extra energy will be converted to heat and mechanical wear on the alternator due to energy conservation.

With smaller alternator pulley size, the alternator runs slower. Using smaller crank pulley AND alternator pulley together, it helps to get rid of the rpm difference. With just a crank pulley, there's no extra load on alternator but it wears faster and might cause headlight glare in some situations (not us).

---------- Post added at 04:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------

Simply it's best if you use the whole pulley set OR just the crank pulley. Either way, the majority of the power gains will come from the crank pulley, which is sensitive to weight savings, not the accessory pulleys.
 
I believe if you reduce the alternator pulley size, it'd lower the alternator rpm thus increasing its load. The weight savings factor would be insignificant compared to the lost rpms I believe.. If you think that alternator is one huge generator, it's electricity generating capacity is dependent on it's size and it's revolutions per minute..

---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:08 PM ----------



beat me to it :smile:



With smaller alternator pulley size, the alternator runs slower. Using smaller crank pulley AND alternator pulley together, it helps to get rid of the rpm difference. With just a crank pulley, there's no extra load on alternator but it wears faster and might cause headlight glare in some situations (not us).

---------- Post added at 04:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------

Simply it's best if you use the whole pulley set OR just the crank pulley. Either way, the majority of the power gains will come from the crank pulley, which is sensitive to weight savings, not the accessory pulleys.

Thanks for the correction EG. I was base on the fact how bicycle works. Same amount of work with smaller gear, you will need more revolution to get to the same distance. Sorry I am not a mechanical guy. :.smile:
 
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