Wheel Stud Replacement

P

puhahacj

Member
Location
South Bay 310
Hey guys,

As of yesterday, my Fx is running on 4 lugs out of 5. Took the car to get tires rotated at some pretty ghetto tire shop and they must have over torqued the lugs. Decided to re-torque the lugs myself yesterday, and 1 of the lugs snapped off (good news, rather snap it off then have it stuck).

My question is, can I just knock out the broken stud with rotors/calipers in place and replace with the new stud? I saw this RX8 write up and the guy was able to replace it this way. Hopefully our FX might have a similar setup so the stud replacement will be easy.
 
There's a good guide on spacer install here:
///91

You have to knock studs off to install the spacer so the only thing you'll do is buy a stock size studfollow until step 6 and replace with new stud. You'll have to torque that stud properly without over tightening the others when you install back the spacer..
 
I'm pretty sure it can be done without removing anything, there's a Notch behind that you can get the old out & the new in

---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 PM ----------

The more I think about it, I'm almost sure of this, just check from behind for a notch, it's just enough room to snake one out & back in, if you were doing all you would rotate each to this spot. That guide says to take it all apart?
 
turbocad6 said:
I'm pretty sure it can be done without removing anything, there's a Notch behind that you can get the old out & the new in

---------- Post added at 03:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 PM ----------

The more I think about it, I'm almost sure of this, just check from behind for a notch, it's just enough room to snake one out & back in, if you were doing all you would rotate each to this spot. That guide says to take it all apart?
Click to expand...

Yeah! I thought so!! There IS a hole behind for the bolt to come through right? That will save a good 20 minutes taking off the rotor and caliper.

Maybe we can update that guide to have the rotor/caliper removal as optional.
 
The procedure is just the way I did it, I never did it any other way so I am not sure about clearance or other issues when working with the caliper and rotor in place. Please test the procedure that works best for you and update us.
 
yeah, jeff, I think you did way more work than necissary. also, I just checked out you guide, you really should use washers or a larger nut or even a box wrench to space out the lugnut when istalling the studs so you can pull them all the way in & check that there seated before reinstalling the wheel. the way you did it by just seating & then pulling them all the way in with the wheel installed is not ideal, too much wear & friction on the wheel mounting cup & lug,especially with an alloy wheel, can cause surface issues there & also, you can't really tell if there really seated 100% with that method... if you misjudge then you could wind up wiith lugs lossening on you too...
 
Yes, that washer method looks pretty safe. Fit 3-4 washers over the lug, then screw/tighten the lug nut on with flat side on first rather than typical way......

The wheel studs come in tomorrow so I'll update this thread with the stud replacement procedures without removing rotor/calipers and see how that works...

Also, it's better to remove the lugs when wheels are cold right?
 
I would also try to pick up one or 2 sacrificial lug nuts if changing multiple studs, they can get pretty chewed up after installing a bunch of studs & you want to avoid that much abuse to a lugnut your going to re-use, lug nut threads will deteriorate after installing multiple studs... for one stud no biggie but I'd still rather use a throw away if available

I wouldn't be over concerned as to weather there hot or cold really, shouldn't make much difference...
 
Thanks man, I took up on your suggestion so I bought a set of 20 lug nuts for this case and for the future.

So since there's no need to remove the rotor/calipers, I assume that open hole is on the opposite end of the brakes?
 
Damn, I just removed the wheel and looked for that notch. It looks a little too small to squeeze the bolt through. How did you squeeze the stud through without removing the brake calipers??
 
I think I see the area you are you talking about...the open space next to the calipers, there is a slight open space to snake through. I think I could fit the bolt through by holding it with a strong magnet.....
 
So what happened was I had to remove the brake calipers, but the rotors I left it on. It would have been a lot easier but the rotors looked pretty stuck with all that rust, I didn't want to wait for the wd-40 to soak through...

So I took that stud, stuck it through the tiny space to get through, and with the back end caught in the back, I took a screwdriver and hammered it through. It works.
 
Sorry I know this is an old thread but do u happen to have the part number for the new stud? I also need to change out one of my studs. Thanks a lot!
 
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