Wheel Stud Knurl

.561, if your looking for the best studs then without question you want ARP's, they do now make a 12x1.25 stud with a .565 knurl which should be fine. it's a subaru aplication... you would either use an open lug nut or cut the stud down to size though as there ~3" long... I'm ordering 20 of these next week which is how I know this off the top of my head at the moment:tongue:

oh, also the stock nissan knurl depth is 8mm, the ARP's that I'm talking about are very slightly less but again should be fine...
 
Hi John,


How are you doing, I need to replace my wheel studs and saw your post, are these the ones you are talking about?

Brand ARP
Manufacturer's Part Number 100-7716
Part Type Wheel Studs
Product Line ARP Wheel Studs
Summit Racing Part Number ARP-100-7716
UPC 672036033651

Wheel Stud Style Press-in
Wheel Stud Thread Size 12mm x 1.25 RH
Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.565 in.
Underhead Length (in) 3.000 in.
Knurl Length (in) 0.270 in.
Quick-Start Nose Yes
Quantity Sold as a set of 5.
Notes Designed to fit Subura WRX applications.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7716/


Hope all is well. Thanks for your help!



turbocad6 said:
.561, if your looking for the best studs then without question you want ARP's, they do now make a 12x1.25 stud with a .565 knurl which should be fine. it's a subaru aplication... you would either use an open lug nut or cut the stud down to size though as there ~3" long... I'm ordering 20 of these next week which is how I know this off the top of my head at the moment:tongue:

oh, also the stock nissan knurl depth is 8mm, the ARP's that I'm talking about are very slightly less but again should be fine...
Click to expand...
 
what's the reason to use these -- that they are stronger than stock studs?

So one example is if you're using bolt-on spacers (adapter type, with pressed in studs, not longer studs), these will be stronger than stock studs?
 
these work really good, best stud you can buy really, but need to be trimmed to correct length. there great for spacers too. I'd recommend measure the stock stud, then add 5mm to the stock length, then add for the spacer size your using then cut. nissan's stock stud length is on the short side & the extra 5mm gives a little more thread engagement
 
Thanks for the confirmation, did you have to trim these down in length or do these still work with oem center caps? Thanks


ThE Fx 45 BeAsT said:
correct i have purchased the longer ones at the information is correct, good studs they come in gold or look like they are plated but arp's are great quality.
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FX45Chicago said:
Hey Turbo, is there a formal way of cutting the studs or can we just use a dremal etc.
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Chris, what are you doing? I had my mechanic create a jig, cold cut all of them the exact length, then he used a tool to clean up the cut/edge.
 
Chedman13 said:
Chris, what are you doing? I had my mechanic create a jig, cold cut all of them the exact length, then he used a tool to clean up the cut/edge.
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LOL..., I'm not in the process of cutting them, but I ordered them and they are on the way. Andy, is going to redo my studs ,but before I wait to the last min and start cutting through $150 dollars worth of studs I wanted to be sure. It looks like I will have to get measurement first and go to a shop to cut, this what i'm gathering from your statemant.
 
Since you spent $150 on ARP studs, I would go to Berman's Infiniti and buy ONE OEM stud.

Give that to Andy and have him cut each stud the same length. I think it's safer than taking dimension off the internet. As long as Andy cold-cuts them, you're fine.

Don't change your studs out too often, you wear something out in the back -- I hear you should only do it like 3-4 times then replace -- maybe someone can help me out in what I'm trying to say.

Not to start a debate again, but I still like bolt-on spacers the best. Ideally, ARP studs + bolt-on spacers. But then again, the weakest part of the link will fail.

FX45Chicago said:
LOL..., I'm not in the process of cutting them, but I ordered them and they are on the way. Andy, is going to redo my studs ,but before I wait to the last min and start cutting through $150 dollars worth of studs I wanted to be sure. It looks like I will have to get measurement first and go to a shop to cut, this what i'm gathering from your statemant.
Click to expand...
 
FX45Chicago said:
LOL..., I'm not in the process of cutting them, but I ordered them and they are on the way. Andy, is going to redo my studs ,but before I wait to the last min and start cutting through $150 dollars worth of studs I wanted to be sure. It looks like I will have to get measurement first and go to a shop to cut, this what i'm gathering from your statemant.
Click to expand...

FYI, I have those studs with 20mm spacers and stock 20" wheels, and I did not have to cut them at all.
 
tchuck said:
FYI, I have those studs with 20mm spacers and stock 20" wheels, and I did not have to cut them at all.
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Yea..., thanks what is your thoughts on what Ed said about the 3-4times etc. I believe this will be my 4th rotation. I'm counting taking them off/on has 1 rotation.
 
Chedman13 said:
...

Not to start a debate again, but I still like bolt-on spacers the best. Ideally, ARP studs + bolt-on spacers. But then again, the weakest part of the link will fail.
Click to expand...

Here's my two-part argument against bolt on spacers. No debate - just my opinions based on my knowledge and experience.

*disclaimer - no mechanical analysis has been performed by me on any studs or spacers. These are opinions.*

1) Twice as many lug nuts. If you're changing a tire then it doesn't matter but anything beyond that and you're dealing with an extra set. As with all lugs, the torque should be rechecked a few miles after installation to ensure proper torque at each instance. With bolt on spacers, this means removing the wheel, verifying torque on hidden lug nuts, replacing the wheel, tightening the second set, then verifying the second set again a few miles later. An exercise in redundancy if you ask me. I also like to check them occasionally for peace of mind. For me that requires popping the center cap and checking them. For you it requires removing the wheel, checking the hidden set, replacing the wheel, tightening the second set, driving a few miles, and then checking them again.

2) ARP studs pressed into a steel hub > Ichiba/H&R/ebay studs pressed into an aluminum spacer. That's a no-brainer. Hopefully a failure will never happen but if it does, that's where it will occur.
 
Not an engineer, but my cliff notes research are as follows.

Bolt-on vs. extended studs.

Bolt-on, the shear forces on the studs are less due to less reliance on friction – wheel/spacer then spacer/hub to prevent rotational slippage.

Farther the bolt sits from the base of the stud, the great the forces on the stud.

Vertical loading – this is where wheel and hub centric are critical. If wheel and hub centric, the vertical shear stresses are borne by the lips and studs, not just the studs in a non-wheel/hub centric spacer.

Lateral loading – static load on the studs nearest to ground and dynamic load when taking a corner – all put stress on all studs.

Rotational loading – this is the hub/spacer, spacer/wheel – two frictional planes vs. one without a spacer.

When a wheel is bolted onto the hub/rotor with no spacer, there is only one single shear plane. Once slippage occurs, there is a bending load on the stud. When you introduce a spacer, there are two shear planes.

I would argue (debate part) that bolting on the spacer to the hub is closer to creating a single shear plane than a spacer that is not bolted on to the hub.

As pointed out, if your spacer isn’t bolted on properly, not torque properly, etc… this whole argument fails and extended studs with studs with much stronger tensile strength comes into play.

Throw in ARP studs with bolt-on spacers with the studs pressed out and repressed with ARP, that’s my preferred combination. Loc-tite on the nuts of the bolt-on spacer further reduces risk.

Anyway, good conversation, haven’t thought of this stuff in a while.

Tim - debate away -- you ARE an engineer=)

tchuck said:
Here's my two-part argument against bolt on spacers. No debate - just my opinions based on my knowledge and experience.

*disclaimer - no mechanical analysis has been performed by me on any studs or spacers. These are opinions.*

1) Twice as many lug nuts. If you're changing a tire then it doesn't matter but anything beyond that and you're dealing with an extra set. As with all lugs, the torque should be rechecked a few miles after installation to ensure proper torque at each instance. With bolt on spacers, this means removing the wheel, verifying torque on hidden lug nuts, replacing the wheel, tightening the second set, then verifying the second set again a few miles later. An exercise in redundancy if you ask me. I also like to check them occasionally for peace of mind. For me that requires popping the center cap and checking them. For you it requires removing the wheel, checking the hidden set, replacing the wheel, tightening the second set, driving a few miles, and then checking them again.

2) ARP studs pressed into a steel hub > Ichiba/H&R/ebay studs pressed into an aluminum spacer. That's a no-brainer. Hopefully a failure will never happen but if it does, that's where it will occur.
Click to expand...
 
Oh my gawd! I just spent 20min on a reply on my stupid phone and lost it all before it posted. I'll do it again when I get home tonight. Ugh.
 
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