Wheel Bearings Problems I Think !!!!!!!

M

mrzorrillanyc

Member
Location
New York/Pennsylvania
So I have read a couple of threads in here and on the org about the issues that people have had on their fx with the wheel bearings. I currently have 47,000 miles on my 2005 fx and lately while driving it feels like i am driving a cheap piece of crap; rumbling, wobbling, vibration, unbalancing, etc... are all the effects that i feel while driving at above 30mph.

My questions to you all are the following, are those the common signs that one experiences when the wheel bearings go bad on these vehicles?

If indeed it is the Wheel bearings that have failed is it cover under the power train warranty?

If it isn't the bearings the cause of the problem, what are some other things that can be causing these issues?

below I have attached a link with manufactures warranty info.
http://www.infinitiusa.com/ownership/warranty

Thanks in advance for your input!!!
 
what kind of tires do you have? I used to have the stock BF Goodyear tires on the OEM 20" rims and I just switched to 22" rims on Sunny tires. I know that those aren't the best tires but I know that the tires aren't the source of the problem since it was doing it with the OEM as well.
 
I'm not too familiar with low-pro 20"+ tires, but in the off-road world, tires eventually get bad - and can get really bad - to the point that you are describing right now.
I just replaced my 33" BFG's because they were beating me to death (think flintstone rock wheels). Put on a newer pair of ProComp 33's - problem fixed, feels brand new again.

It might be worth your time to swap out a set.

Wheel bearing issues you can usually hear (swooshing sound) and feel by raising the front of the vehicle and holding firmly the wheel/tire - and moving. If there is play - check to see where the play is coming from. (make sure it's not a tie-rod-end or steering rack issue)
 
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My tires are brand new, just bought and installed last Sunday.

Would the dealer void my warranty or not do any fixtures to things cover under warranty since I upgraded from 20" to 22" rims? (i wanna know if i should put the stockers before visiting their facility).
 
If you feel vibration at your steering but without some rumbling noise. I would suggest you check your wheel balance, especially you have new tires. Balancing should be done when you replace tires.

If you hear rumbling noise especially at high speed it will be quite possible, it is your wheel balance.

If you feel your car wobbling, I would suggest you check your tie rods or wheel alignment. To check your tie rod, jack up your car to have wheels off the ground, hold your tire at (12 clock and 6 clock) and try to shake it. If it is quite shaky, then your tie rod has gone bad. You can compare with both side and find out which side is more loose. If you replace tie rod, you will need to do wheel alignment.

It also depends on your tire tread pattern, performance tire like ones I have Nitto 420s tends to have rumbling noises due to the tread pattern and large contact surfaces. I believe your power-tran warranty is only for engine and tranny related. I don't think those will be covered, but try to check with the manufacture warranty.

I would suggest start checking on the lower dollar value parts first, check your wheel balance, then tie rods then wheel bearing.
 
"I would suggest start checking on the lower dollar value parts first, check your wheel balance, then tie rods then wheel bearing."

Makes complete sense white_Hair, thanks for the advise. I must admit that this is the wack part of owning a vehicle, when issues arise and you don't have a clue what could be the problem?, how much it will cost to fix?, and where to go for reliable services?. but i guess it is what it is.:mad.:
 
That's when you start reading and doing it yourself. My tools have paid for themselves 20X over....and I find it fun to fix problems and now know they are done right - myself. :)

Also, I don't know much about FX's (yet) but another cause could be the lower control arm bushings. Get under the car, and just start looking around for anything that doesn't seem right. If the bushings in the arms look weathered/cracked, that could also be the culprit.

If it IS wheel bearings, you should know here shortly. You won't be able to drive too much longer if they are really bad.
 
mrzorrillanyc said:
"I would suggest start checking on the lower dollar value parts first, check your wheel balance, then tie rods then wheel bearing."

Makes complete sense white_Hair, thanks for the advise. I must admit that this is the wack part of owning a vehicle, when issues arise and you don't have a clue what could be the problem?, how much it will cost to fix?, and where to go for reliable services?. but i guess it is what it is.:mad.:
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A lot of us all have been through what you are experiencing. So don't be frustrated. Just think of it is a process of learning more about your FX. :wink (2):

boosted4runner said:
That's when you start reading and doing it yourself. My tools have paid for themselves 20X over....and I find it fun to fix problems and now know they are done right - myself. :)

Also, I don't know much about FX's (yet) but another cause could be the lower control arm bushings. Get under the car, and just start looking around for anything that doesn't seem right. If the bushings in the arms look weathered/cracked, that could also be the culprit.

If it IS wheel bearings, you should know here shortly. You won't be able to drive too much longer if they are really bad.
Click to expand...

+1 Agree.


If you have a low raise or two jacks that can jack up both of your front wheels in the air safely, then you can check your tie rod by shaking the tire at 12 & 6 clock directly. If it shakes quite bad, then you can crawl down the car and try to hold the tie rod and ask your buddy to shake that same tire for you and see how the ball joint seat moves on the tie-rod or simply holding the tie-rod see if it vibrates a lot. (Since we have inner and outer tie-rods).

Tie-rods are cheap, like 60 dollars for one, if one goes bad. I would suggest replace both side, since the life span of the tie-rods are similar, then you just need to do alignment once.

For checking the alignment, you should be able to spot it when you try to drive straight on a flat surface, or even checking if you have even tire tread wear.

Of course, if you take it a good motor work shop and ask them to check for you. It should cost less than 30 mins of labor.
 
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