Use Dynamat? I did

F

Frankiago

Evo Troll
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IL
Dynamat is rather heavy, and feels like just a sheet of rubber with sticky backing. It's somewhat expensive, but I have (or had) 36 square feet of it.

I used up some of it on the rear hatch. I figured, while I had my hatch plastic cover panel off I might as well use some of the Dynamat I have (removed it to get rid of my rear wiper, looks nice and I'm sure when I wash the car on Tuesday or Wednesday I'll be glad I did).

First off, incase you didn't know, our rear hatch is almost entirely fiberglass with a little bit of real glass and plastic thrown in there. I forgot about this and when I had a sting on my finger I was looking for the splinter and couldn't find it. Then when all my knuckles started itching I remembered how crappy it is to work with fiberglass (used @ my work, some days my forearms sting and itch like crazy cuz of it).

End result isn't exactly what I wanted, although now I can tell where the sound (exhaust) IS coming from so it must've done somethin. I still have about 28 sq ft of Dynamat left, just gotta find the free time to pull out the seats and carpet and lay it down everywhere. I'm sure it won't be nearly as hard as the hatch was (complicated bends, holes for plugs, etc).
 
Well I only put Dynamat in the hatch so far... and I'd say about 2 lbs. The windshield wiper alone was a lil heavier than that.

The total 36 sq ft of Dynamat in full form is atleast 15 lbs.
 
The hatch is the area I didn't do at all. I get zero rattles from the actual hatch, the plate rattled a little but I insulated the backside and no more rattles.
 
Cube said:
Well I only put Dynamat in the hatch so far... and I'd say about 2 lbs. The windshield wiper alone was a lil heavier than that.

The total 36 sq ft of Dynamat in full form is atleast 15 lbs.
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Oh thats nothing at all...i was concerned it would weight a lot more and take a cut from our performance.

i dont think i will need that much dynamat, just for the front doors & maybe a little bit in the trunk.
 
rookie said:
The hatch is the area I didn't do at all. I get zero rattles from the actual hatch, the plate rattled a little but I insulated the backside and no more rattles.
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I installed it in the hatch for deadening outside sound (aka my own exhaust) :tongue:

Didn't even think about rattling (my single 12" rattles the plate, but I put the soft side velcro behind the bracket and that got rid of it)
 
sorry to bring a thread abck from the dead--but i was thinking of throwing some dynamat in my doors and hatch because when i have my speakers all the way up (stock bose FTW) my doors rattle on the inside. outside does not rattle at all, but inside the doors rattle and stuff.
i know it's not too difficult to take off the pieces of the doors and stuff, but would htis be a DIY for sure or definately a thing to get done professionally?
the rattling is starting to bother me --I can't have my volume past3/5ths of the away up
 
this was the last car I dynamatted, my minivan with a system...stripped the dash to the bare firewall & started from the firewall & wrapped the whole ac/heater box & all ducts & then worked my way back.... let me tell you, enough of this stuff & a cheap gm minivan can feel much more mercedes like:tongue: I think I did go a little overboard on that minivan though...

10072d1109902768-alpine-mcintosh-chopped-up-liquid-cooled-dell-dsc01925.jpg
 
i would love to get rid of some of my interior rattles. although they dont come from loud music, mainly just from rough roads. would this help with that? also, is there a cheaper alternative to Dynamat brand sound deadener?
 
turbocad6 said:
this was the last car I dynamatted, my minivan with a system...stripped the dash to the bare firewall & started from the firewall & wrapped the whole ac/heater box & all ducts & then worked my way back.... let me tell you, enough of this stuff & a cheap gm minivan can feel much more mercedes like:tongue: I think I did go a little overboard on that minivan though...

10072d1109902768-alpine-mcintosh-chopped-up-liquid-cooled-dell-dsc01925.jpg
Click to expand...


Way too much time on your hands
 
wow john, a little overboard?
haha probably sounds better than my mom's car (MBR350)

i was jsuting thinking of doors and trunk lol not stripping hte car to its frame
 
i ws thinking of getting the dynamat "xtreme" door kit...
Kit contains four 12" x 36" (305mm x 914mm) pieces of Dynamat Xtreme to reduce road noise so you Hear More Music!™. Kit includes enough material for two standard size doors. For proper installation, use one of our Dynaroller tools. Self-adhesive.

Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit
Part Number: # 10435
Contents: (4) 12" x 36" (305mm x 914mm) pieces of
Dynamat Xtreme
Price: $120.00 US Retail ​

xtreme_door_kit_bar.gif



and maybe steal the trunk piece from john's leftover (if theres any)
 
I still have a bunch of the stuff... maybe if I upgrade my door speakers I'll use up the rest on the doors.

It is a PITA to DIY, as you can see from John's XTREME minivan :tongue: One big issue I had was that the rear hatch is fiberglass. Trust me on this one, no matter what they try to market the material as, it's a spiffied up space-age FIBERGLASS. Those of you who have never worked with fiberglass of any sort, know this: IT ITCHES.

There's fiberglass EVERYWHERE at work, and some of my uniforms have the stuff embedded into it. My thighs sometimes itch because there's no way to get out years of fiberglass embedded into 'em.

Wear an old, disposable long-sleeved shirt and gloves if possible. The forearms are usually the most susceptible to the fiberglass itch.

On a side note, did you know that dip has fiberglass in it to make micro cuts into your lip/cheek for the nicotine to enter your system?
 
Try Second Skin Deamplifier.... a little cheaper than Dynamat and better performer.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier.php?category=120

Here's a sound deadener challenge that was done in 2005.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Shows the differences in quality, materials, and performance. 12 Different products including Dynamat. A lot of high end do not use the brand "dynamat" anymore....cause they can get better performance/ deadening for cheaper. And their are other options for almost the same quality, but less than half the price.

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
 
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theres a place in canada, called b-quiet check out there brown bread ultimate I think it was... good stuff & about 2/3 the price... I'll look it up later, the doors & the hatch & inner trunk area below the spare & all the plastics are about all that's needed on the fx, our firewall & floor foward of the rear seats are good already. if you really wanted to go all out, next might be removing the headliner & sunroof & doing the roof skin, but I wouldn't be surprised if infiniti did a dampening pad there already....

gchris, don't confuse rattles & squeeks with vibration & resonating, best way to make it quiet is seek out each & every noise & treat each accordingly, dynamat don't cure everything...

I always wanted a silent car, the kind of car that could cruise at highway speeds & be silent inside, I gave up on that ideal a while ago though, ain't gonna happen, I knew this when I drove new s classes & a bentley & thought they were noisey too. queitest car I ever drove was a newish phantom silver spur thing, rolls or bentley think it was.... they got that thing as close to riding on a cloud as I've ever seen.... still thought the wind noise was too loud though...
 
j, order a 50' roll of this to start : http://www.b-quiet.com/ultimate.html very important to degrease & clean the panels well before putting it on, heatgun helps a lot too. I get this stuff no cheaper, you'd have to buy huge amount to get any better discount with them. the aluminum thin layer is very sharp, can really cut you up.

wanna really make the doors quiet? put a layer of this behind each door panel too http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html but that starts getting $$$

I done a lot of cars with this stuff, great company & product to work with & not too expensive really
 
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