Trimming Rear Wheel Wells

it's hard for me to say anything with 100% certainty as I haven't done it yet, but I think it's very possible to roll the lip, can't say if the bat will work or not, can't say how much it can be rolled or compressed without loosing the ability of the molding clips to engage... there are relief pockets that the clip goes in that if there flattened too much the clips won't hold anymore...


as far as the Phillips screws going up from under the molding they are not necessary at all, the clips alone can hold the molding on perfectly fine all by themselves... past that, even silicone could hold the center of the molding on if we needed to get really extreme & really make some room there & not even be concerned with the clips even...

hopefully I will do mine soon & see, I'll show what I winded up doing, but I think there is more room available here than just a slight trim:smile:...
 
I think if you are going to be really aggressive with the rolling then you will definitely have to rig something for the trim. In any case John good luck with it and let us know how it turns out.
 
Im sure you can use 3M automotive double sided molding tape (very thin and sticky) to help the trim stay in place.

dont know yet which way would be easier for me. ( i dont have air tools)
 
no, double sided tape is only good for flat surface to flat surface & wouldn't be too good here, the uneveness would cause gaps & water in these gaps would make it eventually fail...
 
I'm thinking I might have to do this when I get my new wheels... I hope I'm one of those lucky guys that didn't need this.. But with my luch I will certainly do.
 
I rented the same roller for $40 on eBay and got lucky and found the seller was local and came to my house for pickup and drop off. Very easy and accurate tool to use once you get the hang of it. Using the heat gun is the key!

VGBSUPERFLY7 said:
if you haven't done so already, i just read a post where a member rented a fender roller from ebay for $50, and apparently, everything turned out well. i used a cheap hand grinder for the rears.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/East...ol-Rental_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ140567562212
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Use the same screw that were there. You only have to trim of the section between the screw holes on the molding and roll only the section between the screw holes on the fender is enough to clear the rubbing since that is the point the tire will make contact to the body.
 
I used the OEM connectors, but since I think one or two got removed during rolling, I have double sided (gorilla, I think) tape in a couple spots just to hold it on. It's been on there almost a year with zero problems.

My finders are rolled though, and the plastic is trimmed.
 
AeroBFA said:
I rented the same roller for $40 on eBay and got lucky and found the seller was local and came to my house for pickup and drop off. Very easy and accurate tool to use once you get the hang of it. Using the heat gun is the key!
Click to expand...

good deal!...job well done, your stance is sick.
 
I have been running lowered on my BC coilovers for a few months now, no rubbing, etc until I installed the new tires and threw in 30mm spacers on all corners and so the rubbing starts. Part of the plastic molding under the rear fenders are getting chewed up and both rear tires are showing friction rub lines on the tires' shoulder. :mad.:

I am thinking on doing the fender roll, a local shop is quoting $45 per fender. I usually drive assertively, spirited if you will but right now, I am driving slower making sure to avoid even the shallow manhole covers that lined the center of many streets in NY.

Is this worth it? I am concerned on future rust issues... If the cons outweights the benefits, I may as well raise the vehicle a bit to avoid the rub.

Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
 
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You definitely want to roll the fender is in the rear as it will cut your tire. Not sure if $45 per fender is a good price. I did my and AeroBFA using a rental Eastwood Roller for $40.
 
^thanks. I've made the decision to roll the fenders. I will drop my car off to turbo next Monday and hopefully that plus a few paint jobs are gonna get done :smile (2):
 
Not the literal meaning of the words.

Not that it is important but Cruiser was a name of a pet fish (paroon shark) that I had for a long time 6+ years which I have acquired while it was only 6 inches long and died last year when he broke his cutom made tank. He was 3.8 feet long, about 25-30 lbs at the time
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT8FVFF3KGdCDt5fuzBSFZvQJ_nCedPncVsoVMUOh1dfbf3s7S3Aw.jpg

Speedmaster: first fancy watch
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTHoB9r-dXKbSLsqX3YEVGBNry5zkL0BalGPorK5JNDxJO9r2Ntbw.jpg

PMG 705 said:
Cruiser=Speedmaster?



TapaTalkin'
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Roll, don't cut, and all will be fine.

Well, ok, you can cut the plastic trim to give a little extra clearance but will lose some of the mounts. I have gorilla tape holding it on at the top, and it's been fine for years.
 
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