Tires for 2012 fx35 18" wheels

I used to live in Ukrainian village and moved back to the burbs (Schaumburg). You visit often?

Yeah, putting my order in next week for them once I get this extended warranty check back from Honda


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---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:37 PM ----------

Actually I do need help. Do I want +20mm or +40mm. I have no idea what it does so some guidance would be appreciated :)


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Nope, 265 is too narrow for 10.5 wide wheel.
But if you're into stretch tire look, then consider it fit. :smile (2):
To me, at least a 275 wide tire to properly fit a 10.5 wheel.
 
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So then do you think I should run the yokos on. 275/45 or 275/55??

Or do 285/50/20

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---------- Post added 03-21-2014 at 07:44 AM ---------- Previous post was 03-20-2014 at 11:46 PM ----------

Because yokos in that size are only about $150. Per so I would probably buy everything separate


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For comparison, I'm running 275/40 (undersized, but that is intentional). +20 will work it you don't lower it, but you also can't run 285/50 tires since it may be too tall and rub. I'm at +10 and +5 with spacers, but my fenders are rolled flat. Also, it's actually +35, not +40. Not sure why they keep advertising them at +40. When I was going back and forth with them, it was listed as +40, then when I went to order, they let me know it was actually +35. Not a big deal.
 
Yeah I don't plan on lowering it anytime soon. So I should do either 275/45 or 275/55? +20 for front and rear?


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---------- Post added at 10:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:11 AM ----------

I'm thinking the 275/55?


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275/45 would be overall diameter of 29.7" which is less than OE 30.4". 275/55 is 31.9" which is way over the OE diameter. Both work, but 275/45 is closer. If you want, 295/45/20 is almost dead on to OE rolling diameter. If you don't drop your car, it won't rub and it will give you a meatier look. 275 is slightly stretched which works for me because of my offsets, my wheels poke out a little. But 295 would look better at stock height and almost perfect size on a 10.5" rim. On my 22"s, I ran 295 on a 10.5" and it was good. No stretch, no bulge.
 
Thanks! Definitely don't want rubbing. So I will take your advice and go with the 295/45/20 +20mm. Thanks man. Appreciate it! Ordering them soon!


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20x10.5 et+20? would that be flush with the fenders? I was thinking about ordering vossen cvt 22x9 et15 all around. Its still too cold to go outside to take my wheels off and do some real measuring. as for 20x10.5, i think that would look good on the rears.
 
10.5" +20 sticks out from the fender slightly at stock height. So if you ran a bigger tire like 295, it will poke a little. My rims stick out from the fenders maybe 1/2" front and back at +10 front and +5 offset in rear. But my camber is also at -3 in rear and -2 in front. At stock height and camber, a +20 would look ok in 10.5".

My old 22" setup was 22x9" in front and with spacer was +5. At -2 camber and with 265 tire, I could fit maybe a finger between the fender lip and tire edge so it wasn't perfectly flush. My car is also slammed and the tire was even with fender height wise. Again, stock height you'll be fine with 9" and +15 offset. On a first gen, my 9" rim looked tucked at +20 offset and H&R springs. That's why I threw a 15mm spacer on. 9" +15 will definitely be tucked in the rear.
 
Shadow, last question.

So i am going with the 20x10.5 +20 running 295/45/20. My question is, should I find a package deal with wheels and tires already mounted with TPMS sensors? Or is it better to buy everything separate? I was told that if I buy Wheels/Tires/TPMS and they come mounted, ect, I will have to take it to the dealer to have them re-programed. He also mentioned that they would need to unmount the tire to re-program? Is this correct?

Its 1830 Shipped with TPMS/Wheels/Tires or 1500 without TPMS/Mounting.
 
Well, if you were to keep your OEM wheels for winter, definitely buy the new sensors so you're not swapping each year. Any tire shop can reprogram sensors, they all bought the scan tools needed. Removal of the tire is not needed to reprogram. They basically hold the scanner up to each wheel/tire and register the sensor. Then they plug into the OBD port and initialize them so they communicate. As long as the sensors are good, it's fine. My local tire shop charges $40 to just reprogram. $100 if they have to dismount tires and install new ones. Dealer here wants $150 just to reprogram which takes maybe 20 minutes.

I've heard that it's free at Discount tire. Also, see what kind of sensors you're getting in the package, lots of manufacturers now. The price difference seems fair since most sensors are $150+ for all 4 and then mounting/balancing is another $100 or so.
 
My infiniti dealer charges $45 each time to reprogram your 4 sensors. So if you have two sets of tires with sensors, you have to double that cost for winter and summer.
 
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