Throttle Body Cleaning (High Idle)

fxlr8

fxlr8

Staff
Administrator
After removing my S/C I cleaned the throttle body by spraying it down with a t/b cleaner, now my idle will not go below 1000. I tried the reset...relearn procedure about 20 times and nothing works. Reading some of the G forums some people say you are not suppose to clean your t/b.... the t/b's are very sensitive.

If anybody has cleaned their throttle body, please share some info.

Thanks
 
fxlr8 said:
After removing my S/C I cleaned the throttle body by spraying it down with a t/b cleaner, now my idle will not go below 1000. I tried the reset...relearn procedure about 20 times and nothing works. Reading some of the G forums some people say you are not suppose to clean your t/b.... the t/b's are very sensitive.

If anybody has cleaned their throttle body, please share some info.

Thanks
Click to expand...


I cleaned mine and it was idling funny, I ended up taking it to the dealer and they performed an Idle Volume Air Learn, think that is what he called it. Anyway I guess its another name for setting it back to factory specs.
 
Working fine now, no more code(P0507) .... idle is nice & low.

Found this on nissanhelp


  1. ENGINE COLD
  2. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
  3. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  6. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
  7. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
  8. WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.
  9. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
  10. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
  11. Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
  12. THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
  13. Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. - Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith.
Now, here's the big change
  1. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning aparently does not cut it.

  1. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
  2. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
  3. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
  4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
  5. Wait 7 seconds
  6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
  7. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings

  1. Wait 20 seconds.
  2. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
Click to expand...

I think the main difference is driving the vehicle around to reach operating temps, when I did it originally I would just warm it up in the garage. I drove it around for 5 minutes (not 15) and redid the above procedure. Works perfectly if done right, I actually did it on the first try using the cd player as a clock.

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:21 PM ----------

also make sure you clear any codes before or after performing the above procedure. (I cleared the P0507 code after I got the idle right).
 
I cleaned my throttle body & I cleaned soons when we did the tbspacer, never had any issue? you have to be very gentile with opening & closing it, NEVER let it just snap closed, that would throw it out of calibration for sure. you have to gently close it easy with no shock at all, extremely delicate, like it's made out of razor thin glass type gentile. one snap closed even will make it electronically seat in a very slightly different position, in otherwords at rest it's going to show a slightly different value than the computer is already calibrated too, computer doesn't see what it expects to see next start & bam, code. recalibrate will then teach the computer the new precise resting position, problem solved, but if you don't knock it out of calibration to begin with when doing a gentle cleaning, if nothing changes but the carbon buildup removed, there should be no problem I think... at least this is what I believe to be true from what I know about it...
 
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It is very sensitive. I learned the hard way. Had reset done by consult
 
Yup, I think that is what I did, "snap close". I might of played opey closey with it also. :frown:

Works fine now, so we are all good :tup:
 
LOL, glad you got it resolved Jeff. I guess you need to learn to a bit more gentle, :tongue:. I remember Dave had a similar issue a while back after the TB spacer install at technosquare.
 
yep!
I had to steal Tadashi's TB for a few days off their M drift car for a tune. PITA
 
I'm having the same problem. my FX was parked up for about a month. took it in to the dealership yesterday, now I'm waiting on a call to see what they say. i will keep you guys posted. so you can help me out if it's a small problem that i can take on myself.
 
i can't get the Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning and Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning to work? I NEED HELP !!!! DONT THINK I MISS ANY STEP ? BECAUSE GOT THE IDLE AIR VOLUME LEARNING TO WORK, DON'T KNOW WHAT I'M MISSING HEAR ???
 
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If you cannot do it, swing by the dealer & have them hook up the 'consult'
 
anyone know where PNP SWITCH IS ????? BECAUSE I SAW THE PREPARATION FOR THIS THIS .
Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)​
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Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100°C (158 - 212°F)​

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PNP switch: ON​

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Electric load switch: OFF​

(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
 
did the three step it work rpm goes to 650 , but as soon turn off and turn back on rpm goes back to 1100,??????? i think im missing something here ,
 
after it warms up for a few minutes or after a drive it stays at 1100?

Just make sure you follow it step by step, this has worked on a couple cars already. If you are still having trouble..... may be best to bring it to the dealer.
 
I may have a related issue where the RPM will not go over 3000 RPM. Sometimes it takes a few seconds to let go. This does not happen all the time and usually happens in 4th gear.

Will TB cleaning fix this?
 
i did the same thing today! i cleaned it last night because i swapped my stillen cai over from my g35 and decided, hey, i see some gunk lets clean it while were here, and whamo same gig po507 and high idle at about 1k rpm. lesson learned folks!
 
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