Tacotaco Y-Pipe

theMerchant

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UPDATE: I sold it and got a Nismo full exhaust.

Ok, whats in a name? I picked up a y-pipe from ebay, seller is ilovetacotaco...

and after reading his feedback from others that bought the y-pipe I was comfortable in purchasing these

The y-pipe will NOT fit AWD since it is for a 350z/G35.
I installed it w/o jacking the car up in less that 1 hour. All I did was use the provided bolts and gaskets (added sealant on both sides), the rear bolts and nuts are OEM.

I know what the Doc will say (you get what you pay for..) but I believe in this case I did my research.

I think this is a good alternative to $300 plus y-pipes.:top:

I did not have a chance to take pics, but can if someone request to see some. But here is how they look

Ypipe-350z-1.jpg
 
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Always looking for a bargain..

I like your style man..

Keep it up.. Just let us know if this is something that will work or not work for us.
 
Bargains are always nice (I never try and pass one up myself) if it includes quality but that is not usually the case. Only thing that matters is if you are happy with your purchase. Hope it works out for you.
 
Bargains are always nice (I never try and pass one up myself) if it includes quality but that is not usually the case. Only thing that matters is if you are happy with your purchase. Hope it works out for you.

:laugh: Never for a loss of words doc.. NEVER...:laugh:
 
Nice find - hows the quality? Did you notice any difference from the OEM?
 
Nice find - hows the quality? Did you notice any difference from the OEM?

I took a look before the install and it looked solid, bolted up nicely, and thats all I want to do with the exhaust! My wife drives it to work, since I work very close to home. And I do feel more growl, and mild during normal driving.

Just the ticket for me. I made a revelation and came to understand that no matter how much we try, our SUVs are heavy so going quick is hard (labor and $). After driving the stock g35 sedan, I felt how hard it pulled stock. Now add some air and exhaust.

I will hopefully soon trade my daily driver (2000 Honda Accord coupe v6. no matter what slow car, front wheel drive and heavy) in for something with a better platform (350z).

I just don't see spending allot of money on exhaust (for this car). But a shiny muffler would be nice.


:wink:
 
Same here - When I had the loaner from Metro G Sedan - man it pulled hard when I got back into my FX it seemed really slow off the line, but once my FX got goin - it got goin.:top:
 
Bargains are always nice (I never try and pass one up myself) if it includes quality but that is not usually the case. Only thing that matters is if you are happy with your purchase. Hope it works out for you.

I just wonder how much difference a "Nismo" y-pipe compared to a generic one (thicker side sidewall better metal?) What ever the case its feels better than stock. I wish it didn't come in chrome. Who looks under the car anyways (except for a clean show car like Rookies).

What is quality:
In the manufacturing industry it is commonly stated that “Quality drives productivity.” Improved productivity is a source of greater Revenue - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Emblem-money.svg" class="image"><img alt="Emblem-money.svg" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f3/Emblem-money.svg/75px-Emblem-money.svg.png"@@AMEPARAM@@commons/thumb/f/f3/Emblem-money.svg/75px-Emblem-money.svg.png, employment opportunities and technological advances. Most discussions of quality refer to a finished part, wherever it is in the process. Inspection, which is what quality insurance usually means, is historical, since the work is done. The best way to think about quality is in process control. If the process is under control, inspection is not necessary.
However, there is one characteristic of modern quality that is universal. In the past, when we tried to improve quality, typically defined as producing fewer defective parts, we did so at the expense of increased cost, increased task time, longer cycle time, etc. We could not get fewer defective parts and lower cost and shorter cycle times, and so on. However, when modern quality techniques are applied correctly to business, engineering, manufacturing or assembly processes, all aspects of quality - Customer satisfaction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Mergefrom.svg" class="image"><img alt="Mergefrom.svg" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0f/Mergefrom.svg/50px-Mergefrom.svg.png"@@AMEPARAM@@commons/thumb/0/0f/Mergefrom.svg/50px-Mergefrom.svg.png and fewer defects/errors and cycle time and task time/productivity and total cost, etc.- must all improve or, if one of these aspects does not improve, it must at least stay stable and not decline. So modern quality has the characteristic that it creates Logical conjunction - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia@@AMEPARAM@@/wiki/File:Venn0001.svg" class="image" title="A or B"><img alt="A or B" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/99/Venn0001.svg/150px-Venn0001.svg.png"@@AMEPARAM@@commons/thumb/9/99/Venn0001.svg/150px-Venn0001.svg.png-based benefits, not OR-based benefits.
The most progressive view of quality is that it is defined entirely by the customer or end user and is based upon that person's evaluation of his or her entire customer experience. The customer experience is the aggregate of all the touch points that customers have with the company's product and services, and is by definition a combination of these. For example, any time one buys a product one forms an impression based on how it was sold, how it was delivered, how it performed, how well it was supported etc. (c&p wiki)



I do respect what you have to say Dr2K (I read allot your posts), but I pick my bargains for certain parts but other more vital components (intake tires, general safety) I would consider more "name brand' proven product.

I just post to give some feedback to the community and maybe if it fails we will all know to avoid it.
 
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Nice reply themerchant. Everyone has their own sense, definition or gauge of quality. But in the end if you as a customer are happy with the product then thats all that matters no matter what anyone has to say. We appreciate constructive replies and input from all our members so no one should ever be hesitant to respond with how they feel.
 
in a case like this, quality is going to be more than meets the eye. quality is going to be fit & finish (aparently somewhat equal to the "name brand"), but quality also extends beyond this. quality will have to do with longevity, durability & lifetime of the product and it's performance too. now performance may be similar or equal if they copied a known design, so in the end the biggest difference I see will wind up being durability & how long it lasts...

there are very big differences in materials & I'm willing to bet that that is probably the single biggest difference a piece like this has compared to a big dollar known high quality part. not all stainless steel is created equal & not all construction is created equal. I'm wiling to bet the main difference in this piece is the metal itself & the quality of the flex part too. I would expect this one to not last as long as a real high quality piece. if it lasts 3-4 years maybe it's worth the price, but I could see the possibility of having issue with it in less time. that's probably the big difference here really. a guy like doc would rather pay the price & at least know for sure that he got quality, this one on the other hand, the real quality remains to be seen... it may take a year or 2 for it to reveal itself, & it very well might be fine 4 years later too, but this is the risk & the unknown, & honestly, chances are much higher of having an issue with the cheapo over the big $$ name brand ....

sometimes it's foolish to pay for a name, but you also gotta look at what's behind the name. a well known high quality manufacturer, at least your sure that they used quality materials & construction, there reputation is built on this & your paying for it.
 
There's a reason why the nismo is sooo shiny. If you take a close look at it, the craftsmanship & welds are spectacular. Sure it may do the same thing, & on top of that, noone sees it really. Guess it's kinda like pumping regular & premium. Only the owner knows it's there. Might even give a little on the Butt Dyno if it was name branded.
But really, seems like a good buy if it works, & without dyno numbers, who knows. Let us know how it holds up.
 
thank you turbocad and gto-dave for your input and opinion. I would say you guys make a good point.
I don't mind being the guinea pig and I will report any failures so other members can make a informed decision in the future. I'm not that stubborn, if the pipe fails I will post here, like some say, its trial and error.
I live in the west coast and our cars never touches salt from winter ( I read some guys get there whole exhaust done every so often) , so hopefully I can get 4 years out of it. Maybe before then, I will decided to do the whole exhaust over,to Nismo. So good times , spending time with our Fx. :top:
 
another example... last night my starter went:sad:... in the past few days I had maybe 2 incidents that I turned the ign & nothing, tried again once or twice & it started. I originally thought maybe the Ikey battery was low, but last night it just wouldn't start, tic tic tic.

now there are a few options for replacing the starter, calling around this morning I got everything form a rebuilt at $89 to a supposedly very high quality rebuilt at around $130, then theres brand new at almost $300 from infiniti. like I'm sure doc would have, I choose the "best" option & just got back from picking up a brand new one from the dealer. like you said merchant it depends on weather it's a critical part that's a safety or reliability issue or not, I can pretty safely expect to get another 5 years out of a brand new starter, I woulda been very pissed if a year from now I had a problem again with a rebuilt... not worth the savings to me.

this pipe is not as critical & I wouldn't say you did a bad thing by getting it really, especially west coast no salt situation, plus, I guess worse case would be you develop a crack or a leak, which isn't gonna get you stuck, so a pretty safe gamble I'd say... keep on modding:cool:
 
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Ya, if any issues arrise it'll likely be a crack or leak. The Y takes a good amount of flex when the motor moves around.
 
I will keep people here updated. I all for changing to a better y-pipe if needed. Since it would only be a small investment.
Do you guys normally do a ecu reset with just a y-pipe install? I already did a rest when I did the ground wire and intake install. I tried the pedal reset, and failed. Just going to do the neg battery method later.

thanks to the peeps on :iS: I have learn so much about our fxs.
:nerd:
 
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