Swapping city light with turn signal bulb in headlight

[SCY7H3]

Hey guys, I read that some of you swapped out the wiring from your city light (194 bulb) with your turn signal bulb (7440). First what bulb type did you use and secondly, does it melt your headlight housing around the 7440 bulb? Did you cut the wires to do the swap?

I'm looking to do this mod but I'm not comfortable with it possibly melting the lens and reflector around it.

 

[XtremeFX11]

I want to do this too! I have already added the Philips Daytime8 DRL kit to the front of the vehicle, but absolutely despise the amber colored "city" light... I changed all the interior lights to xenon white and would like to use that color for the "city" light too... anybody?

 

[la_fx35]

The city light 194 socket is much smaller then the turn signal 7440 socket. Plus there is no room to fit the 7740 socket into where the 194 socket is on the back side of the headlight housing. So, if someone have done this, they must have cut the wire and swap them so that the turn signal will be at the city light location and the turn signal will be at the city light location.

Seems to me that you wanted more light on the headlights. Why not use the VLEDS V3 Triton Switchback LED system at the turn signal location so that there will be white light at the turn signal location regularly and then amber when the turn signal is on.





A nice 194 LED is always an options.

 

[SCY7H3]

I thought of doing that but I'm afraid of melting the housing. After all the housing is plastic yet the triton led housing is conductive aluminum and I'm sure it radiates heat somehow.. Possibly eating away at the housing slowly.. Anyone can confirm who's driven in 80 plus weather?

Sent from my SGH-I747

 

[la_fx35]

The melting. Are you referring to the tiny LED for the city light or the VLEDS V3? If you're referring to the VLEDS V3, the LED heat sink is external. I have the VLEDS V3 on during this summer months without any signs of melting.

 

[SCY7H3]

Hrm, maybe the VLED is the better option..pricey but it works. Since the VLED is all aluminum, i figured the heatsink would eventually transfer heat to where it touches the socket housing and melt it. Do you think there's enough heat generated inside where the bulb end sits to melt it?

The reason I started asking about melting housings is there's been a few members on here who melted their housing around that area..like the thread below

https://www.infinitiscene.com/searc...-their-headlights-Melted-parking-light-lenses

---------- Post added at 02:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------

Alright so VLEDs has a sale now until the 5th of this month, 15% off. Going to jump on that and do it. Just debating 5k vs 6k...how blue is the 6k, anyone have any pics or experience?

 

[ErikFX]

Phantom what's the link for the VLEDs? I wouldn't mind jumping on that sale..

 

[SCY7H3]

Hey no worries, what color you getting? 5K or 6K?

http://www.vleds.com/ promo code is in the red which reads "NYS15"

 

[la_fx35]

I'm aware of the 1st Gen's melting lens issue. It was a bad batch of Cree LED at the time. As matter of fact, I had Cree LED at the time and mine just dim and die out. Another 1st Gen member ran the Cree LED and his was fine. Those Cree LED were at their infancy at the time. LED technology has came a long way and it is much more mature now that I doubt anything like that would happens again. Not sure what happen to the melting on that 2nd Gen.

Thanks for the heads up on the 15% off on VLEDS. More VLEDS will go onto the car!

Those photos above are 6000K.

 

[SCY7H3]

I think I'm going to hold out on the Triton V3 setup for now..Just looking at the photos of all the things I would need, this is just not a clean setup at all..I mean the LED is nice, the box is kinda..bulky..and having to buy adapters to make this work is just sloppy..there's too many points of failure going from the OEM socket to the adapter to the socket of the wire going to the box.. Plus I can see where water could get into and corrode those metal connectors...meh, lost interest for now, especially at the whopping $144 it would cost me, its really not that great for something that will give you a little better than conventional LEDs. The most I can see paying for this kind of setup is $100. Rather than having adapters, they should have cables that have the correct socket built in and you just plug that into the box and seal it with heat shrink. I'll wait for GEN 3 when those come out. They have a bit of learning to do still.