Speaker Upgrade

I think you'll be happy with the results. Remember that adding in a processor will take it to the next level, can't beat a good processor tune.

I'd suggest a change however. Instead of buying HAT Imagines for front and rear instead buy ONE set of Imagines and one pair of Hybrid L3V2. Or better yet check with your dealer on the price for one pair of Clarus 6.5 for the door (just the midbass) and one pair of L3V2 for the dash. This would be a fantastic comb and I would NOT do anything with the rears except disconnect them :) (or leave them for fill off the bose amp if you have people in back or run 5.1 content from a DVD). You'll be close in price range but you'll have a great sounding system. Not worth spending money on rear fill imo. What you want is the Alpine running the 6.5 midbass in the doors and the 3.5 inch or tweeters in the dash. Be sure they set the gains properly so you don't overdrive the dash speakers.

As to the existing.... ;I would disconnect them all and just run the front stage from the new speakers. You can, if you want, leave them hooked up and see how they sound. But from a "sound quality" perspective you'll achieve much better results without them active.

Rear speakers are good for rear fill if you carry around passengers but in reality they would probably hear your front stage just fine :)

The integrated bose system does use the center channel, mainly for voice, so if I left anything it would probably be that and leave it on the bose amp.

One thing you'll have to decide is how you are going to grab the signals from the existing headunit. If you get an integration preamp (100 bucks or so, such as the Audio Control unit mentioned earlier) you can pickup the signals from the existing speaker outputs from the Bose amp. If not you'll need to use the service manual wire diagram to pickup the line level signals going INTO the bose amp and run those to the new amp/processor. There are threads here on that. You don't want to use the Bose speaker level outs if you have a processor since this will be double processing.


Hopefully this wasn't too confusing!
 
I'll read it again later when I'm not at work but I think I get it, thanks, are these the size specs for the dash speakers?

  • Overall diameter: 93mm (3.7-inch)
  • Mounting depth: 46mm
  • Bolt Circle Diameter: 85mm
  • Mounting hole: 74mm
 
That sounds pretty close. I wouldn't worry overmuch about mounting hole placement and such. Pretty much any speaker you put in there is going to be somewhat customized to fit (ie different screw holes etc). I literally just dropped my Hybrid L3SE 3.5 inch speakers in and used Gardner/Bender butyl rubber seal around the speaker flange.
 
Been to a shop where they suggested a good amp, JL 12" sub, Hybrid coaxial in the rear doors and components in the front doors with the tweeters in the dash how does this sound?
 
Well, as I was mentioning earlier, I wouldn't spend any money on the rear speakers just because they should normally be turned off. But if it's in your budget and you aren't sacrificing in the front speakers, then why not.

What amp did they suggest btw? And which components in front?
 
1k as a budget is really tight.* Equipment only no installation fees included definitely possible.* The* complexity and amount of work needed to complete this is quite substantial.* I'm thinking a good install will run at least 1 k alone.* I would be weary if I was quoted any less.* However. A quick look on the Best Buy website (I am in no way endorsing BB but just using them as a quick reference since they are a located nationwide) and I found a few good candidates to give you an easy point of reference.

Personally because of your budget my design approach would ideally consists of front seperates, a 5 channel amp and a 10 inch sub(due to lack of space).* Retain the rear door speakers and use the money for some kind of oem integration equipment or processor.* Believe me I went on for months without one since it took me awhile to figure out how to make my Alpine processor work.* This makes the biggest difference.* It's* like night and day.*

If the use of a 5 channel amp is not possible.** The other option is to use a 4 channel amp to run the front and rear speakers and a dedicated mono sub amp.* The last option would be to do a Class AB 4 channel amp to run the fronts and bridge the rear channels on the amp for the sub.* The rear speakers will remain powered by the HU.

While the install is being done I would have the shop run extra speaker wires, the necessary rcas, power/ground leads and turn on lead for the amps for future use for the center channel and the rear door speakers if you will not wire it up to the amp.* This will save you a lot of time and money if you plan to upgrade at a later time.* Just make sure the shop pre-wires and labels everything.* He or she will also have to account for a suitable location for the additional amps as well.

*I would wire the front components to the amp and wire the rear door speakers as well(the speakers do look like crap but they sound decent when powered by a proper amp.* I know this for a fact because I did this while I was doing my car audio project.* I did this for a week until I can swap the set out with some aftermarket ones)Also the rear speakers are just that. Rear fill.
*
Please keep in mind that some of these equipment was taken right from Best Buy's website and may not be available in-store.

Front Component sets 6.5 inches
Model: PVM216 Speakers with Woven Glass Fiber Composite Cones (Pair)
Power handling: 75w rms/150 peak
$ 139.99


Front Component sets 6.5 inches
Kicker - CS Series Component Speaker System
Power handling: 100w rms/300w peak
Model: 40CSS674
$ 149.99


Front component sets 6.5 inches
Alpine - 6-1/2" 2-Way Component Car Speakers with Poly-Mica Cones (Pair)

Model: SPS-610C
Power handling: 80w rms/240w peak power (80 watts RMS)

5 channel amp
MB QUART - 5Ch 740W Car Audio Amplifier Rm740.5 740 Watt 5 Channel

Model: RM740.5
Bridgeable - 90 dB SNR - 0% THD - 10 Hz to 20 kHz - MOSFET Power Supply - 4, 1 x 75 W, 200 W @ 4 Ohm - 4, 1 x 110 W, 300 W @ 2 Ohm
$ 312.99

The MB was the only 5 channel amp within your budget that I can find on their website that seems to work with this particular system design.* With a little more research on the web or consultinf your installer I am sure you can find other brands that will work for this particular application.** I personally like keeping my equipment brand within the same manufacturer as much as possible since manufacturers design their equipment to work best together though the designs incorporate specs to use for most brands depending on the design application.

---------- Post added at 02:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:17 AM ----------

For 10 inch subwoofers, ideally any single voice coil 2 ohm or a 4 ohm dvc sub will work depending on how it is wired up to achieve a 2 ohm load assuming the amp you use is stable at 2 ohms.** Use this useful speaker impededence calculator to help you figure out if the subwoofer you choose is right for your particular application: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp



As for the processor or oem integration equipment there are a few out there and your installer can assist you to figure out which is the right one for you.* I did come across one that might deserve a look due to its price and features.* The Audiomobile LDQ4 is a high end oem integration processor and line driver for about $ 179.99 (not available at Best Buy).* This was reviewed on PASMAG.* http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test-reports/3603-audiomobile-ldq4-review
 
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Sorry for not posting for a few days thanking you for the information I have been away, I had to put off the upgrade for a couple of months, my sons car decided to take a sh%it so I had to trade it in and dealing with car salesman is life sapping!
 
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