Rotors that don't warp?

Have driven from Denver to Vail, it's hell on brakes with a full car. Never felt anything shake under braking like that.

---------- Post added at 02:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 PM ----------

I love my premium drilled rotors from rc concepts. Love how they look on my ride and how they look on the 2014 Ferraris. :)

R1 Concepts?
 
Calipers with more pistons requires more fluid. You change physics. The net result of using calipers with more pistons, without changing master cylinder stroke length, will reiqure more brake pedal travel. I personally like the standard short travel of the OEM set up and am not willing to accept the longer pedal travel to obtain the marginally improved braking performance that a two piston caliper would offer.

I like this forum, because nobody has come in here and just blasted you. People are simply too nice here, but your simply wrong, so please just stop.

There is 20+ members on here that have swapped their stock 1 & 2 piston brakes for the 4 piston Akebono's and have not run into any problems. We are not disagreeing with physics, we are simply telling you that the MC is capable of handling the extra requirements. THIS IS GIVEN BY THE FACT THAT EVEN INFINITI DIDN'T CHANGE THE MC.

So please keep trying to tell us how you are smarter than Infiniti's engineers...

Also if you do not believe that bedding new pads and rotors is not important to the life of the system, I am sorry but you do not have any right to say this to others: "You obviuosly haven't worked on cars or brakes systems much."

Next time check your attitude before you come in here and start running your mouth.

:vader:
 
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you should avoid really hitting them hard during this time if you expect to get the best stopping power and longest pad life.

Wow just read the rest of the idiotic things you say. You are so out to lunch it isn't even funny.

In many cases the above is correct, except that you should always follow what the manufacturer states is the bed in procedure and unfortunately for you a lot of premium manufacturers such as R1 and stoptech have bed in procedures along the lines of:

from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Sorry but in my books that is not "taking it easy" on the brakes. In fact its the opposite, that is much rougher than any daily driving I do.

Here is the source of the above, just in case you don't believe me:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...ions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in
 
I haven't looked in quite a while, what are some of my options for BBK?

I've avoided it to this point b/c I recently bought a house and have been trying to stick to a "budget"...



**MEME405, tone it down a bit dude! Let's try and keep this relevant to the thread topic.
 
I haven't looked in quite a while, what are some of my options for BBK?

I've avoided it to this point b/c I recently bought a house and have been trying to stick to a "budget"...



**MEME405, tone it down a bit dude! Let's try and keep this relevant to the thread topic.

Popular choice at the moment is the Kido BBK or the OEM Akebono's.

But stoptech, JBT, K-sport, and all those companies are represented by different cars on the boards.

Sorry about my attitude above, but when someone comes in and blatantly throws mis-information and tells it as a fact in such an aggressive manner...gets on my nerves.
 
On a budget, probably Akebono. You get big 4 piston calipers and 14" rotors which will add a ton of heat absorbtion/dissipation capacity. I have this setup, it's nice. Downside is that it's a lot heavier than aftermarket BBK's and your stock setup. I would recommend using OEM non drilled rotors if you're truly worried about warping. Not as pretty though.

The other BBK's are pretty similar - Kido, K-Sport, JBT, Rotora aren't hugely different. 2 piece rotors which can help with warping since the disc will be allowed to expand separate of the hat. 14-15" front rotors, lighter than Akebono and much prettier. Downside is they cost much more. I think Kido front setup is $2K and you could get setup on Akebono for less than half that.

If price is no option, then you get get into Stoptech's or those crazy Brembo monoblock's that Rookie runs. Stoptechs I would still consider relatively affordable, not so much the Brembo.

Or for very minimal cost, get the 2 piston calipers and rotors from the 06+. Probably find them at a junkyard for very little money (my old set is sitting around because no one wants them). Thicker rotor so it will help with fade and warping. Downside is they're ugly just like the single piston setup.

I haven't looked in quite a while, what are some of my options for BBK?

I've avoided it to this point b/c I recently bought a house and have been trying to stick to a "budget"...



**MEME405, tone it down a bit dude! Let's try and keep this relevant to the thread topic.
 
Had a similar problem before, two new front rotor sets were tossed away (OEM and EBC) after the already wrapped original rotors, it turned out to be an overheating problem due to collapsed front left brake line, had it changed and then I put on new OEM front rotors, it has been almost 10,000 miles since then and no problem at all.

But if you drive up and down the mountains a lot, you'd better not use the brakes too often unless if you have to, an old rule of thumb from the old manual gearbox days says "use the same gear going down as the one you used going up", this is to use the transmission to partially do the braking and reduce stress on rotors. I would use manual mode and follow this technique.


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Yesterday I stopped at O'Riely Auto parts to pick up some wiper blades and Sta-bil (for motorcycle). While there I talked to the guy at the counter about resurfacing my rotors. He said that all of their stores should be able to machine slotted/drilled rotors!!! I'm going to order some new pads today, and have my rotors machined (hopefully) this weekend.

Any suggestions for brake pads? I've been using OEM ones so far...
 
Napa also does it. Cheaper than Oreilly too! I took mine to the one on 120th and Main.

I'm running OEM pads on mine.

Yesterday I stopped at O'Riely Auto parts to pick up some wiper blades and Sta-bil (for motorcycle). While there I talked to the guy at the counter about resurfacing my rotors. He said that all of their stores should be able to machine slotted/drilled rotors!!! I'm going to order some new pads today, and have my rotors machined (hopefully) this weekend.

Any suggestions for brake pads? I've been using OEM ones so far...
 
I have been through numerous rotors and such. I started With the rotor pro drilled and slotted With centric posi quiet ceramic pads. After two warpings I talked to rich and upgraded to their super premium rotors and went with the akebono pads and never looked back! I would also like to mention that When I installed them I rebuilt the calipers and I have yet to have any issues what so ever. I think the pad has allot to do with the rotors warping and JMO I think the posi quiet pads heat up bad. Idk, I could be wrong but I like the akebono pads much better. I would some day LOVE to go to a big brake kit and I'm always looking for a deal on some used ones, but though a HUGE improvement it is also a very expensive one.
 
Does anyone actual check with a dial indicator to determine if thier rotors are actually warped and to what degree if they are..............or am I the only one?
How many people are replacing rotors just because they assume they are warped, when in fact they are not?
My 09 has produced brake shutter/vibration twice in 60K miles and neither time were the rotors warped. A light machining of only .010" was enough to stop the shutter. Check your rotors BEFORE assuming they are warped and don't allow a so called "brake expert" to remove unnessarry material from your rotors if they don't need to.
 
I figured I would jump in and give some of my experience with brake systems..especially being around quality control for the automotive industry for many brands..here's my wisdom to you all...

- Calipers that have more pistons usually take the same if not a little more fluid though the braking system is designed to compensate for this.
- Why you ask? Because one big piston is compared to two half sized pistons, or four even smaller pistons. If the piston size stayed the same, it would be pointless to have that massive brake power in a vehicle that does not need it and you would have one massive caliper going halfway around your caliper. Besides that, the purpose of more pistons is not necessarily for more power but to allow the pad to "float" on the rotor to lessen the feel of defects on the rotors (warping).
- One way you throw off braking power is if you install a bigger brake setup on one end of the car and not the other. One end of the car will have a bigger advantage over the other. This is more evident in slip conditions in snow, rain, etc.

- Over tightening your lug nuts can "contribute" to your rotors warping. Remember a rotor is one big piece of metal that conducts heat and metals expand under heat, especially the heat brakes create. Summer months are even worse when the ambient temperature is up there aside from humidity which causes heat to linger.

- More expensive rotors do not always mean better. There's a fine line between quality and looks and unfortunately some people base everything on looks or because its plated or powder coated or slotted or cross drilled, etc. The best rotors by far I have ever had were Brembo blanks right from Italy. They were heavier due to the more dense iron allowing it to handle more heat. The way they poured molten iron into mold was uniform. So you don't get "hot spots" like in stock rotors because parts of the rotor were more dense than others. The rotor also expands with heat more evenly preventing the possibility of warping due to high and low spots. But in a world where business dominates, brake jobs for dealerships is their "bread and butter" so to create a "perfect" setup only exists where you pay top dollar for it.

- Cross drilled rotors are only good if they are molded with the holes. Drilling a rotor after the fact introduces stress cracks that you will only notice after time which will either crack, shatter or warp in strange ways. If this hasn't happened to you, you're considered lucky or you bought something of high quality.

- Washing your car or going through a drive-through car wash can warp your rotors if they are hot enough. Heating something to a high temp then cooling it down too fast is not good for iron unless you are forging it.

- If you wash your car and leave it parked the same way without driving it a few meters will introduce pitting into the rotors. Remember that iron is very susceptible to rusting and pads contain metals that will fuse with the rotor. With the introduction of water into the mix, the two metals will fuse and once you move, they create pitting that under braking will make you feel as if your rotors are warped. They're not, you just have surface defects that aren't smooth which is what you're likely feeling. This pitting will go away after some normal braking but if the pitting is bad enough, this will become a "hot spot" and the rotors will start to expand unevenly causing warpage.

There's probably more info I can give you guys, I just can't think of it at the moment.

Most brake problems are caused to the issues I explained above but some are also due to the quality of parts. Fact is, most stock brake setups aren't designed to handle north american driving unless you have the Akebono's which are on the 2nd gen FX50S and other Infinitis like the G and M. Fun fact, those Akebono's brakes were first designed for the European market due to their "high-speed driving" demands. So what does that tell you?

The best setup is to have bigger rotors and more pitons on a caliper that is a floating design like the Akebono and other aftermarket designs as such.


Anyways, that's my .02, these are of course opinions based on real-world facts that I myself have experienced personally and working in an automotive quality control and testing facility.
 
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Good info...but aren't the Akebono's fixed calipers? Floating would be the normal 1 or 2 piston OEM calipers. Piston/s are on one side and the other side just slides or floats with a pad on it. Akebono's have 2 pistons on each side and only the piston moves.
 
Thanks! I edited the post after re-reading it, noticing some grammatical errors and adding a bit more detail to some points. Just making sure I get my point across without confusing anyone :)

As for having a dial to measure rotors, I'm not sure everyone here would normally have one of these but its a great thing to have that will diagnose the problem much easier. On a flip side if you can find a mechanic that is honest, then he will machine your rotors lightly...but most places will just cut the hell out of your rotor to avoid having to do more passes at it.
 
For anyone interested, I have been running this package on my FX50 for the past couple of months and they are phenomenal:

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/EB...e-Package-Lines-Pads-Rotors-EBCAKEUPGRADE.htm

A friend of mine runs that business and was able to get stainless lines for the FX instead on this package, otherwise they are the same. Overall performance is greatly improved while the amount of dust is almost none. I have found that these pads are a little squeeky though until you have applied the brakes a couple of times in cold weather, by no means a deal breaker for me.

Randy
 
I figured I would jump in and give some of my experience with brake systems..especially being around quality control for the automotive industry for many brands..here's my wisdom to you all...
Anyways, that's my .02, these are of course opinions based on real-world facts that I myself have experienced personally and working in an automotive quality control and testing facility.

So much of what you say isn't true, that I don't know where to start. :rotfl:
Your opnion is another example of internet untruths that shouldn't be believed.
Rotors will not crack or suffer ill effects of cross drilling if done correctly. Sure any idiot can screw up anything if a procedure is done wrong. There are untold numbers of drilled rotors in use that don't crack or warp simply because they were drilled after casting. You have very little machining expertise. I've drilled many a car and bike rotor myself and never had a problem with them. I and fellow racers were drilling rotors before you could buy them mass produced. I've raced cars and bikes for years and have never seen a cracked rotor and you won't see any tougher, harsher service on brakes than racing.
 
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