Recommendations to reduce body roll/sway

I was thinking of going that route, you just made it easy for me to pull the trigger. Thank you. I will probably order both front and rear and try them out.
No problem. I hadn't seen anyone recommend them for our cars either and decided to experiment. I have not tried the rears so can't say for sure but let me know if you do!
 
I measured my front and rear sway bar on my 2009 Infiniti FX35 with a digital caliper (X.XX accuracy):

Front: 33-34mm
Rear: 27mm

I ordered red polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension. Front from Amazon for $26 (Energy Suspension 9.5114R 1-5/16" Stabilizer Bushing https://a.co/d/197kraU) and rear in red from Energy Suspension directly (https://www.suspension.com/9.5111) (because Amazon was 2-3 weeks out) for $33, and bushing lube was included.

Front arrived already but rear will arrive on Saturday. Planning to install them all at the same time as my new set of Excel-G rear shock absorbers (KYB 349215 Excel-G Gas Shock https://a.co/d/h6uPysa).

I chose 33mm rather than 34mm because the OEM rubber ones are listed as 1.31”, which is 33.27mm.

I am replacing my rear shocks due to bad leaks and horrible rear stability on bumps and turns. KYB Excel-G rear shocks should be slightly stiffer than OEM and my hopes is that with that and the polyurethane bushings, I should be way less floaty on bumps and turns.

I will report back after my installs this weekend. I’m at 128k miles btw.
 
Last edited:
Okay,
I measured my front and rear sway bar on my 2009 Infiniti FX35 with a digital caliper (X.XX accuracy):

Front: 33-34mm
Rear: 27mm

I ordered red polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension. Front from Amazon for $26 (Energy Suspension 9.5114R 1-5/16" Stabilizer Bushing https://a.co/d/197kraU) and rear in red from Energy Suspension directly (https://www.suspension.com/9.5111) (because Amazon was 2-3 weeks out) for $33, and bushing lube was included.

Front arrived already but rear will arrive on Saturday. Planning to install them all at the same time as my new set of Excel-G rear shock absorbers (KYB 349215 Excel-G Gas Shock https://a.co/d/h6uPysa).

I chose 33mm rather than 34mm because the OEM rubber ones are listed as 1.31”, which is 33.27mm.

I am replacing my rear shocks due to bad leaks and horrible rear stability on bumps and turns. KYB Excel-G rear shocks should be slightly stiffer than OEM and my hopes is that with that and the polyurethane bushings, I should be way less floaty on bumps and turns.

I will report back after my installs this weekend. I’m at 128k miles btw.

Okay, so, completed the install of the front and rear sway bar bushings and rear shocks mentioned in my previous post.

I did it in stages, doing the front bushings, then rear, then rear shocks, with test drives in between, to gauge how impactful each change was.

This is my conclusion:

Front and rear bushings: $50
Rear KYB shocks: $150
Total Cost: $200

I’d say, 100% worth doing if you’re not planning on doing a full blown coilover kit. The new bushings, especially in the front, had a noticeable improvement to the steering quality, especially around curves. For how easy they were to install, and for $50, 100% recommend.

Regarding the shocks, these had the biggest positive impact. The install was pretty easy, but I will say, if you wanna avoid a headache and can spare the extra 25/side, buy new shock mounts instead of reusing the old ones so you don’t have to endure the pain of removing the old mounts from the old shocks. If you’re tight on money, I strongly recommend getting a specialty tool to hold the spindle in blame while you remove the nut with an offset wrench. The car overall, with all 3 things, is handling like a dream, and has the perfect balance between tight and soft suspension, and I feel like I can aggressive take corners without fear of being sent to the moon. I am still having some wheel skipping in the rear on tight bumpy right turns, but that’s because my rear differential bushing is blown and needs replacement.

I would absolutely recommend this for anyone who wants a better than stock solution that doesn’t break the bank.
 
Okay,


Okay, so, completed the install of the front and rear sway bar bushings and rear shocks mentioned in my previous post.

I did it in stages, doing the front bushings, then rear, then rear shocks, with test drives in between, to gauge how impactful each change was.

This is my conclusion:

Front and rear bushings: $50
Rear KYB shocks: $150
Total Cost: $200

I’d say, 100% worth doing if you’re not planning on doing a full blown coilover kit. The new bushings, especially in the front, had a noticeable improvement to the steering quality, especially around curves. For how easy they were to install, and for $50, 100% recommend.

Regarding the shocks, these had the biggest positive impact. The install was pretty easy, but I will say, if you wanna avoid a headache and can spare the extra 25/side, buy new shock mounts instead of reusing the old ones so you don’t have to endure the pain of removing the old mounts from the old shocks. If you’re tight on money, I strongly recommend getting a specialty tool to hold the spindle in blame while you remove the nut with an offset wrench. The car overall, with all 3 things, is handling like a dream, and has the perfect balance between tight and soft suspension, and I feel like I can aggressive take corners without fear of being sent to the moon. I am still having some wheel skipping in the rear on tight bumpy right turns, but that’s because my rear differential bushing is blown and needs replacement.

I would absolutely recommend this for anyone who wants a better than stock solution that doesn’t break the bank.
I also made the mistake of forgetting to order rear shock mounts when I replaced mine, luckily they are super easy to do but they make a huge difference.
 
Okay,


Okay, so, completed the install of the front and rear sway bar bushings and rear shocks mentioned in my previous post.

I did it in stages, doing the front bushings, then rear, then rear shocks, with test drives in between, to gauge how impactful each change was.

This is my conclusion:

Front and rear bushings: $50
Rear KYB shocks: $150
Total Cost: $200

I’d say, 100% worth doing if you’re not planning on doing a full blown coilover kit. The new bushings, especially in the front, had a noticeable improvement to the steering quality, especially around curves. For how easy they were to install, and for $50, 100% recommend.

Regarding the shocks, these had the biggest positive impact. The install was pretty easy, but I will say, if you wanna avoid a headache and can spare the extra 25/side, buy new shock mounts instead of reusing the old ones so you don’t have to endure the pain of removing the old mounts from the old shocks. If you’re tight on money, I strongly recommend getting a specialty tool to hold the spindle in blame while you remove the nut with an offset wrench. The car overall, with all 3 things, is handling like a dream, and has the perfect balance between tight and soft suspension, and I feel like I can aggressive take corners without fear of being sent to the moon. I am still having some wheel skipping in the rear on tight bumpy right turns, but that’s because my rear differential bushing is blown and needs replacement.

I would absolutely recommend this for anyone who wants a better than stock solution that doesn’t break the bank.

Thanks for doing this! Just ordered the Energy Suspension bushings. I had the Z1 Rear Diff bushings installed and they definitely help with wheel hop. But what I REALLY recommend if you have RWD is installing a Quaife LSD. Pricey for sure, but man it really puts the traction down in our cars, especially over uneven ground. It just pushes through, where before it would lose grip so easily.
 
Thanks for doing this! Just ordered the Energy Suspension bushings. I had the Z1 Rear Diff bushings installed and they definitely help with wheel hop. But what I REALLY recommend if you have RWD is installing a Quaife LSD. Pricey for sure, but man it really puts the traction down in our cars, especially over uneven ground. It just pushes through, where before it would lose grip so easily.

is the Quaife LSD compatible with the AWD model? The AWD defaults to RWD except when needed.
 
is the Quaife LSD compatible with the AWD model? The AWD defaults to RWD except when needed.

It should be as the rear diffs are exactly the same on all our cars except for the drive shaft flange, which is different btw AWD and RWD. But internally, they are the same. I ordered this model, which is for the G37. Product # QDF10L

If I had to do again, I would have had them upgrade the final drive gear as well since they are taking it off and transferring it to the new LSD. The FX37 AWD are the only models that came with the 3.692 Final Drive here is that part number(s): Infiniti OEM 38100-0F56A
 
Also installed sway bar bushings few days ago, much smoother turning I would say. Already have complete set of front bushings on car so difference is not radical, but rather noticeable.
 
I e seen several measurements and sizes, as well as gen1 and gen2, mentioned here, and extinct or discontinued items, so I’m really confused now.
I have a 2015 qx70 AWD, and I’m replacing the shocks. I’m also hoping to replace the swag bar bushings with polyurethane instead of rubber.
Does anyone know what size our F&R rear sway bar/stabilizers are,and if you have a link or part numbers that’d help too.
 
I e seen several measurements and sizes, as well as gen1 and gen2, mentioned here, and extinct or discontinued items, so I’m really confused now.
I have a 2015 qx70 AWD, and I’m replacing the shocks. I’m also hoping to replace the swag bar bushings with polyurethane instead of rubber.
Does anyone know what size our F&R rear sway bar/stabilizers are,and if you have a link or part numbers that’d help too.

I answered all of these questions in my posts above #26 and #27
 
Interesting that upgrading the bushings made a big difference as I wouldn't have thought that... What brand did you go with? Link?

There should already be lateral locks on the bushings from factory.

How many miles were on your stock bushings? Were they shot?

I may just add lateral locks on the bars since no aftermarket bars appear to be available.
 
The siberian bushing website errors out on checkout =\
They have an eBay store and are quite responsive. I’ve found cheapies (Energy brand) that worked for the rear, they’re 28mm if yours is AWD. Those were on Amazon, although not listed as specific to our cars.$20.
the front, on the other hand, has been a major pain. They’re 34mm, but I tried 3 sets that didn’t fit. Then I discovered their eBay store. They also have a website. And yes it’ll take a couple weeks to ship

Durable.Parts | eBay Stores

send them a message and tell ‘em what you need. Mind you the price is for one, not a pair, and they’re $60 or so for two.
I wouldn’t personally do the yellow ones, they have a super high hardness rating of over 90sar (shore A rating), unless comfort is of no concern.
The red ones are ~80-85sar, which is a HUGE improvement over OEM rubber. Big difference in handling.
 
Has anyone fitted adjustable end links to their sway bars? I have a 2014 5.0 that I'm setting up for hill climb racing so ideally want new front and rear sway bars, bushings and links - anyone know of a kit sold for other Nissan/Infiniti variants that would fit the second gen? We're starved of info and part suppliers here in the UK.
 
They have an eBay store and are quite responsive. I’ve found cheapies (Energy brand) that worked for the rear, they’re 28mm if yours is AWD. Those were on Amazon, although not listed as specific to our cars.$20.
the front, on the other hand, has been a major pain. They’re 34mm, but I tried 3 sets that didn’t fit. Then I discovered their eBay store. They also have a website. And yes it’ll take a couple weeks to ship

Durable.Parts | eBay Stores

send them a message and tell ‘em what you need. Mind you the price is for one, not a pair, and they’re $60 or so for two.
I wouldn’t personally do the yellow ones, they have a super high hardness rating of over 90sar (shore A rating), unless comfort is of no concern.
The red ones are ~80-85sar, which is a HUGE improvement over OEM rubber. Big difference in handling.
I have a 2011, and a 2013 50s, I put the hard yellows on one, and OE on the other. I did not notice a decrease with the hard yellows. On the other with NEW OE rubber, was expecting a better ride. It does not have, did both at 100k. Will be doing steering rack with soft soon. Tires make a big difference. I so far have tried 4. And 20x8, also 21x9.5. If you change diameters the load tables are off by a lot.
 
Back
Top