Rear pad change question..

S

solekeeper

Member
Location
South Fla.
Guys I'm about to perform a rear pad change on my friend's acura TL, but I know I need another tool to compress the rear piston, any idea how to find out which one I need? I'm not too familiar with rear changes, I've only done it once.. everything is pretty much the same as the front, except the compressing of the piston is slightly different, right? I just spoke to a buddy of mine, and he said he just uses a c-clamp for the rear as well.. is this ok?

Thanks!~

---------- Post added at 07:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:42 AM ----------

I'm accustomed to using this tool for the rear, but can I do w/o it?
YouTube- How to Replace Rear Brake Pads : How to Compress a Caliper

---------- Post added at 07:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:21 AM ----------

ok guys, 3rd edit, I read a couple of sites and people have been using large flatheads and needlenoses to compress these rear pistons, seems legit? Any ideas?
 
C-clamp will be fine, if the car has abs....crack open the bleeder nipple.....and compress the piston with the clamp (you might not even need the clamp with the nipple open).
 
Shouldn't need to crack the valve - a peice of wood to cover the piston and a C-clamp is all you need if the ignition is off. You only need to compress about the distance that the old pad wore - just enough to get the new pad in with a little wiggle room.
 
Ok so let me get this straight.. I have done brakes before.. and this is what I did.

-take top off the fluid (under the hood)
-and then I proceeded to do front pads.
-Got in car, pressed brakes a few times for pressure to come back, and that's it.. everything went well w/o bleeders or anything.


So i'm totally confused now on this bleeder operation, should I just do it as a precaution?
And also, since I'm doing the rear pads as well, do I need to do anything else "special"? lol
 
You are doing it to prevent the dirty fluid in the caliper from reversing back into the abs system and brake reservoir (which may possibly ruin your abs system).

-Crack open the bleeder nipple
-Compress the caliper
-Close the bleeder nipple
-Reinstall all components
-Check brake fluid level and pump the brakes.
-Add more fluid if necessary.
 
not an fx, but look for this on your caliper (it might have a rubber cap on it)
DiskBrakeBleederValve.jpg
 
huh, the whole point of opening the bleeder is to get rid of the contaminated fluid inside the caliper and to prevent abs damage.

http://www.startribune.com/cars/11355031.html
It's always been a good practice to open the bleed screw on a brake caliper before compressing the piston back into its bore in order to allow clearance for the installation of new, full-width brake pads. By allowing brake fluid to escape through the bleed screw into a plastic tube and eventually into a container rather than being forced back into the hydraulic system, no debris in the fluid -- moisture, corrosion, dirt, etc. -- can become trapped in sensitive components like the master cylinder or the proportioning valve.
If the system is equipped with antilock brakes, this procedure is even more critical in order to prevent debris from ending up in the ABS hydraulic actuator assembly, a very critical, complex and expensive component.
Some ABS systems can be bled in a conventional manner; others require bleeding the ABS actuator. In some cases, a scan tool is required to cycle the actuator during the bleeding process to insure all air is removed. However, if you slightly open the bleed screw just as you begin compressing the caliper piston, then close the screw just as the piston is fully compressed, you may not draw any air into the system.
But don't forget, I'm a firm believer in bleeding the complete brake system every two years to fully exchange the brake fluid for new, fresh, moisture-free fluid.
Click to expand...
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl836i.htm
Opening the bleeders on the calipers and wheel cylinders when you compress them is the right thing to do. You don't want to push back any debris that has accumulated in the system back into any of the ABS components or brake master cylinder.
Click to expand...
 
Caliper compression tool that you borrow from Autozone works wonder. No need pliers just go went one of these tools to make everything a lot easier. I haven't open the bleeder valve yet.
 
Mongolian said:
Caliper compression tool that you borrow from Autozone works wonder. No need pliers just go went one of these tools to make everything a lot easier. I haven't open the bleeder valve yet.
Click to expand...

Me neither. I understand the reasoning, but what debris??? The brake system is a closed hydraulic system. The FX manual does NOT bleed for pad remove/replace and that's probably what should be followed, correct? Here's the manual page - cut & paste:

Removal and Installation of Brake Pad NFS000MB
REMOVAL
1. Remove tires from vehicle with power tool.
2. Remove lower sliding pin bolt.
3. Hang cylinder body with a wire, and remove pads, pad retainers, shims from torque member.
CAUTION:
When removing pad retainer from torque member, lift pad retainer in the direction shown by arrow (shown in the figure) so as not to deform it.
INSTALLATION
1. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) or equivalent to the both sides of inner shim and outer shim, install inner shim to inner pad, and outer shim and outer shim cover to outer pad.
2. Apply PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil) or equivalent to pad contact surface on pad retainer, and install pad retainers and pads to torque member.
CAUTION:
Inner pad and outer pad have pad-return mechanism on upper side of pad retainer. When installing pad to torque member, be sure to install pad return lever to pad wear sensor securely.
3. Install cylinder body to torque member.
CAUTION:
When replacing pads with new ones, press in piston until pads can be installed. In this case, carefully monitor brake fluid level in reservoir tank because brake fluid will return to master cylinder reservoir tank.
4. Install lower sliding pin bolt, and tighten it to the specified torque. Refer to BR-19, "Components" .
5. Secure disc rotor with wheel nuts. Depress brake pedal a few times until it gets a responsive touch.
6. Check brake for drag.
7. Install tires to vehicle.

My vote would be to stick to the manufacturer recommendations since it's actually easier to do so in this case. I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to bleed them though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top