Rear brakes

Dsupe77

Dsupe77

Member
Car
2012 FX35 AWD
Name
Dan
Hey Guys,

Just wanted to get some insight on something.

I'm due for rear brakes real soon as they are really low. I have been noticing i need to push down on the brake pedal more than usual lately for the brakes to engage and the brakes are not as responsive.

I can't see it being an issue with the brake fluid or bleeding the brakes as the car only has about 40K on it. You think once i put new pads & rotors on it, it will be more responsive?
 
If it is the original fluid, change it. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so even if it is not dirty it may have some water in with would definitely cause brakes to be spongy/non-responsive. If you are going to do new pads & rotors then that is the perfect time to bleed them out.
 
Agreed - bleeding fluid is standard when changing pads & rotors. Wear plus older fluid could definitely feel as you described. Do you know what you will buy for brakes or are you going back to the dealer?
 
Yeah i'm bringing it to the dealer in a few days. They quoted me a pretty good price and on top of that i have a 15 percent off any service so it's not bad.

On top of that there going to grease my rear axle to get rid of that annoying click which is under my warranty too.
 
So i got new rear brake pads and rotors few weeks ago. brakes feel good but my pedal goes down pretty far still and does not have that hard feeling to it like it used to.

Do i need to bleed the brake lines out? you think there is air in the lines?

If driving around town the pedal goes down far until brakes engage but if i quickly let off the brake and brake again it gets hard and feels normal.

Any input?
-Thanks
 
My FX does the same... Even after bleeding and replacing the brake fluid several times... It's an issue with the hydraulics but not sure where...
 
Super secret solution to this problem...

Bleed the brakes again, with the car turned ON. For some reason we cannot bleed the system correctly without a vacuum being pulled on the booster - which only happens when you bleed the hydraulics with motor on at idle.
 
jumbosrule said:
Super secret solution to this problem...

Bleed the brakes again, with the car turned ON. For some reason we cannot bleed the system correctly without a vacuum being pulled on the booster - which only happens when you bleed the hydraulics with motor on at idle.
Click to expand...
Whaaa??? Never heard of this....do tell more please!!
 
I work for StopTech/Centric - and have done brakes on my FX many more times than has been necessary. I always start with a regular bleed before doing one with the car turned on. I've done both gravity and pressurized bleeds. On two separate occasions, we could not bleed the air out of the system without turning on the car.

Turning the car on and bleeding the brakes purged the air and my only theory for that is there was an air bubble in the caliper or line that would not move without more pressure and fluid flow - which the booster provided. It was only needed these two times and I had never heard of it before me... but glad it's a tool that works!
 
Totally doing this this Spring! Was hoping that my SS Brake Lines would have gotten rid of that squishy feel, but there's obviously another issue... And here I just thought I was crazy all this time!!!
 
jumbosrule said:
I work for StopTech/Centric
Click to expand...

Why, oh why, are my StopTech slotted rotors rusting (on non-swept areas) when the discs on other cars in the parking lot, including one with slotted/cross-drilled discs, are not?

jumbosrule said:
I always start with a regular bleed before doing one with the car turned on. I've done both gravity and pressurized bleeds. On two separate occasions, we could not bleed the air out of the system without turning on the car.

Turning the car on and bleeding the brakes purged the air and my only theory for that is there was an air bubble in the caliper or line that would not move without more pressure and fluid flow - which the booster provided. It was only needed these two times and I had never heard of it before me... but glad it's a tool that works!
Click to expand...

Interesting!
 
If you have a compressor you can purchase the vacuum bleeding system from harbor freight, it does perfect job on changing the brake fluid, and by the way you need to frequently change the brake fluid since it looses its properties, brake fluid adsorb moisture and depending on your location you may need to change it more frequently than some other places, I don’t have this issue on my FX37. On another note if you need your brakes to be higher and not to be squishy don’t use the shims between the caliber and the pads!


Sent from my iPhone
 
I'm going to be bleeding my brakes soon as my pedal feels super spongy and not as responsive.

MY car is about 7 years old already with 60K so i figured it's time get rid of the air/old brake fluid.

Do you guys recommend a certain type of brake fluid for the FX and how much do i need to fill our reservoirs up?
 
Did my fronts and rear pads n rotors... didn’t change the fluid... but next time around I will... akebono ceramic and coated rotors.
 
UPDATE: had the fluid in my brake lines & master cylinder flushed and added new brake fluid.

Let me tell you HUGEEEE difference. I was definitely way over due and my brakes feel like new again.
 
Dsupe77 said:
UPDATE: had the fluid in my brake lines & master cylinder flushed and added new brake fluid.

Let me tell you HUGEEEE difference. I was definitely way over due and my brakes feel like new again.
Click to expand...

Excellent. Fluid can be bled about once a year to keep things feeling right. Glad thats all it was for you.
 
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