06finSport
Member
Does anyone know what the wire colors are for the seat speaker? I want to try to wire them to an amp. Any answers?
M45 Seat speaker wiring
- Thread starter 06finSport
- Start date
Freddie's M45
Member
If you cut both wires that go to the speaker and tap them to each side of a 9V battery (+ & -) when the speaker pops up you'll have the correct conn.
The wire on the + side is + when the speaker pops up
The wire on the + side is + when the speaker pops up
06finSport
Member
No, I know that already, what I'm asking is what are the wire colors for those speakers? Where can I find them in the car, are they under the seat, the dash, in the trunk? Where? I don't necessarily want to cut them at the seat, but somewhere where they've been run under the carpet already and are in the dash or whatever so i can hook them to my amp.
Freddie's M45
Member
Sorry but I don't have that info
But I'm sure you can find them under the seat and some how follow them to the amp.
But I'm sure you can find them under the seat and some how follow them to the amp.
06finSport
Member
Is there anywhere to find a schematic of the infiniti m45? I've been looking all day. What I did today was take the back of the seat off, unplug the speakers and run wires straight to the amp in the trunk to get a feel for what the will sound like on an amp. AMAZING honestly. Even more so with subwoofer. You sit there in your seat and hear the sound coming straight from behind you, then you lean forward an get the full sound. Thats how it should have been this way from the factory.
Freddie's M45
Member
06finSport
Member
I found the FSM last night and located the wires and there colors. You may want to try this one out man. It sounds pretty good depending on how you have things EQ'd. I basically just removed the wires from the plug on the factory Bose amp, wired them in series to keep the ohm load lower and tapped them into the front interior speakers amp. Sounds really nice and clean. I can put together a sticky or something like it if you want to know how it works and the wires as well.
Freddie's M45
Member
It would be kool if you made a wright-up for other M onwner, pics would be a +
I'll be doing something with the seat speakers in the spring, I just don't want to lose the oem surround sound. I may add a switch in order to go back from stereo to surround sound
As of now I only upgraded the front door tweeter and add a subwoofer box & amp. / I can always shut of the sub amp and still have my oem surround sound.
I'll be doing something with the seat speakers in the spring, I just don't want to lose the oem surround sound. I may add a switch in order to go back from stereo to surround sound
As of now I only upgraded the front door tweeter and add a subwoofer box & amp. / I can always shut of the sub amp and still have my oem surround sound.
06finSport
Member
It won't affect the surround sound depending on if you have the interiors wired to a separate amp. Mine still pans left to right and has an even better surround sound feel. I'll try and post some pics and how tos on it tomorrow.
Freddie's M45
Member
I'm in for pics
06finSport
Member
I only have a few pics but its relatively simple honestly. I'll try to give you a run down as best as I can.
My Car:
Everything in my car, audio wise, is JL. I'm running the JL C5 components in the doors and rear deck. I have 2 JL HD amps, a 600/4 for the interiors and 750/1 for the subwoofer which is a JL w3. I will be getting a custom made box made soon to accommodate 2 JL w3's ported through the ski pass (My other port is still there lol). Also, my car has the entire CleanSweep setup...I have no clue exactly how it works lol=].
With all that being said, it will help you better understand the way I have things set up.
What I did was found the which wires correspond to which speakers in the driver's and passenger's seat, wired them in series from driver's seat to passenger's seat to keep the ohm load lower and to make certain that whatever I play has the correct left/right sound to match the component speakers as well. This works VERY well while watching a movie leaning back in the seat with the bass up a little bit.
1. Remove everything from your trunk to access the factory Bose amp and wiring.
It was cold out and I forgot to take pic of the necessary steps to remove the carpet, styrofoam "thing", and the Driver's side trunk molding. For the Driver's side trunk molding, you will need to remove the lower plastic trim where the trunk latch is (above the bumper). It has 4 big lock tabs and, I think, 2 smaller ones, one on each side near the bottom (maybe 2 on each side, not 100% sure but they aren't hard to remove at all).
Remove the upper trunk molding as well for better access to your wiring.
My CleanSweep stuff is where the factory sub used to be.
2. Locate the middle brown plug (B109) on the factory Bose amp.
Remove it and take the 2 clips off of it with a small flat head. You'll know them when you see them, they are long rectangular pieces that are on the top and bottom of the plug. They keep the wires intact I assume. In either case, here is what the pin out of the plug looks like.
Take a minute to get familiar with the pin#'s that are highlighted.
RH =Right Hand
LH =Left Hand
L =Light Blue
BR =Brown
Y =Yellow
B/W=Black+White
B/R =Black+Red
The blank space in the middle of the top of the plug is the clip that keeps it plugged up. The colors are from my car a 2006 Infiniti m45 Sport. The colors could POSSIBLY differ, but I'm almost certain the numbers are the same. The numbers correspond to the to the plug pointing towards you, not away.
The Numbers:
Driver's Side LH (+)=#63 B/W
Driver's Side LH (-) =#74 Light Blue
Driver's Side RH (+)=#64 Black+Red
Driver's Side RH (-) =#75 Brown
Pass. Side LH (+)=#56 Black+White
Pass. Side LH (-) =#69 Light Blue
Pass. Side RH (+)=#71 Yellow
Pass. Side RH (-) =#70 Brown
3. Remove the wires, pin included, with a very small flat head screwdriver, like the one used to fix glasses. The best way I can tell you to do it is to push it backwards through the hole, and you can also look on top of the plug and see gaps that allow you to see the top of the pin. You can use a small flathead to push it out. That way was a lot easier. Make certain that you label the left and right speaker wires as well as the speaker that they go to (on the Driver's and Passenger's side) because there are 2 Light Blue and 2 Brown wires.
Here's what you should be left with:
After you have all 8 wires removed, you can plug the plug back into the amp.
Now, here's what it looks like hooked up to the amp. I will explain the entire process=]
Ok... Let's get the more confusing stuff out of the way first.
You will need to wire the LH and RH (driver's side to passenger's side) speakers in series.
4. Take the Driver's side LH (-)#74 Light Blue wire and connect it to the Passenger's side LH (+)#56 Black+White wire.
Next, take the Driver's side RH (-)#75 Brown wire and connect it to the Passenger's side RH (+)#71 Yellow wire.
Now... you still with me? Lol.
Take the Driver's side LH (+)#63 Black+White and connect it to the (+) on the Left Hand side of the amp.
Take the Driver's side RH (+)#64 Black+Red and connect it to the (+) on the Right Hand side of the amp.
Take the Passenger's side LH (-)#69 Light Blue and connect it to the (-) on the Left Hand side of the amp.
Take the Passenger's side RH (-)#70 Brown and connect it to the (-) on the Right Hand side of the amp.
Upon doing this, you have successfully wired the LH and RH side speakers in series on each seat. This basically means that you've gone from 8 to 4 wires (4 channels to 2 channels), your amp has 2 channels, you connect the LH speakers to the (+) and (-) on the LH side of the amp and you connect you RH speakers to the (+) and (-) side of the amp.
Depending on how you have things set up, you can control the volume using the car's radio, that is if you have an OEM integration of some sort. This is the way that I wired mine up with the CleanSweep equipment controlling the car audio so this is the only POV I can speak from. If there are other OEM integration devices that allow you to control you music's volume using the factory radio (with amps controlling you interior speakers) then this should work, but again, I'm speaking from what I have in my car.
I hope this has helped=]
My Car:
Everything in my car, audio wise, is JL. I'm running the JL C5 components in the doors and rear deck. I have 2 JL HD amps, a 600/4 for the interiors and 750/1 for the subwoofer which is a JL w3. I will be getting a custom made box made soon to accommodate 2 JL w3's ported through the ski pass (My other port is still there lol). Also, my car has the entire CleanSweep setup...I have no clue exactly how it works lol=].
With all that being said, it will help you better understand the way I have things set up.
What I did was found the which wires correspond to which speakers in the driver's and passenger's seat, wired them in series from driver's seat to passenger's seat to keep the ohm load lower and to make certain that whatever I play has the correct left/right sound to match the component speakers as well. This works VERY well while watching a movie leaning back in the seat with the bass up a little bit.
1. Remove everything from your trunk to access the factory Bose amp and wiring.
It was cold out and I forgot to take pic of the necessary steps to remove the carpet, styrofoam "thing", and the Driver's side trunk molding. For the Driver's side trunk molding, you will need to remove the lower plastic trim where the trunk latch is (above the bumper). It has 4 big lock tabs and, I think, 2 smaller ones, one on each side near the bottom (maybe 2 on each side, not 100% sure but they aren't hard to remove at all).
Remove the upper trunk molding as well for better access to your wiring.
My CleanSweep stuff is where the factory sub used to be.
2. Locate the middle brown plug (B109) on the factory Bose amp.
Remove it and take the 2 clips off of it with a small flat head. You'll know them when you see them, they are long rectangular pieces that are on the top and bottom of the plug. They keep the wires intact I assume. In either case, here is what the pin out of the plug looks like.
Take a minute to get familiar with the pin#'s that are highlighted.
RH =Right Hand
LH =Left Hand
L =Light Blue
BR =Brown
Y =Yellow
B/W=Black+White
B/R =Black+Red
The blank space in the middle of the top of the plug is the clip that keeps it plugged up. The colors are from my car a 2006 Infiniti m45 Sport. The colors could POSSIBLY differ, but I'm almost certain the numbers are the same. The numbers correspond to the to the plug pointing towards you, not away.
The Numbers:
Driver's Side LH (+)=#63 B/W
Driver's Side LH (-) =#74 Light Blue
Driver's Side RH (+)=#64 Black+Red
Driver's Side RH (-) =#75 Brown
Pass. Side LH (+)=#56 Black+White
Pass. Side LH (-) =#69 Light Blue
Pass. Side RH (+)=#71 Yellow
Pass. Side RH (-) =#70 Brown
3. Remove the wires, pin included, with a very small flat head screwdriver, like the one used to fix glasses. The best way I can tell you to do it is to push it backwards through the hole, and you can also look on top of the plug and see gaps that allow you to see the top of the pin. You can use a small flathead to push it out. That way was a lot easier. Make certain that you label the left and right speaker wires as well as the speaker that they go to (on the Driver's and Passenger's side) because there are 2 Light Blue and 2 Brown wires.
Here's what you should be left with:
After you have all 8 wires removed, you can plug the plug back into the amp.
Now, here's what it looks like hooked up to the amp. I will explain the entire process=]
Ok... Let's get the more confusing stuff out of the way first.
You will need to wire the LH and RH (driver's side to passenger's side) speakers in series.
4. Take the Driver's side LH (-)#74 Light Blue wire and connect it to the Passenger's side LH (+)#56 Black+White wire.
Next, take the Driver's side RH (-)#75 Brown wire and connect it to the Passenger's side RH (+)#71 Yellow wire.
Now... you still with me? Lol.
Take the Driver's side LH (+)#63 Black+White and connect it to the (+) on the Left Hand side of the amp.
Take the Driver's side RH (+)#64 Black+Red and connect it to the (+) on the Right Hand side of the amp.
Take the Passenger's side LH (-)#69 Light Blue and connect it to the (-) on the Left Hand side of the amp.
Take the Passenger's side RH (-)#70 Brown and connect it to the (-) on the Right Hand side of the amp.
Upon doing this, you have successfully wired the LH and RH side speakers in series on each seat. This basically means that you've gone from 8 to 4 wires (4 channels to 2 channels), your amp has 2 channels, you connect the LH speakers to the (+) and (-) on the LH side of the amp and you connect you RH speakers to the (+) and (-) side of the amp.
Depending on how you have things set up, you can control the volume using the car's radio, that is if you have an OEM integration of some sort. This is the way that I wired mine up with the CleanSweep equipment controlling the car audio so this is the only POV I can speak from. If there are other OEM integration devices that allow you to control you music's volume using the factory radio (with amps controlling you interior speakers) then this should work, but again, I'm speaking from what I have in my car.
I hope this has helped=]
Freddie's M45
Member
Nice job with great pics
I'll be looking to do this in the spring time, now I need to start shopping for a small 2ch. amp
I'll be looking to do this in the spring time, now I need to start shopping for a small 2ch. amp
06finSport
Member
I hope it works out well when you do it. I tried my best to describe the while process. It works great though. I have to put a little bass in them so they don't sound too hollow. I just add bass through the radio, and I'll be getting a bass knob to control the bass separately.
Freddie's M45
Member
I understand 100%
you can alway adjust the x-over on the amp to give them a fuller sound
Did you happen to see or find out what are the ohs on the seat speakers?
If they are 2 ohms speakers it's best in series but if they are 4 ohms it's best in parallel
My understanding is with JL you can hook up from 8 ohms to 2 ohms any way and the amp will correct itself.
If I get to do this I may just get a small Alpine amp.
you can alway adjust the x-over on the amp to give them a fuller sound
Did you happen to see or find out what are the ohs on the seat speakers?
If they are 2 ohms speakers it's best in series but if they are 4 ohms it's best in parallel
My understanding is with JL you can hook up from 8 ohms to 2 ohms any way and the amp will correct itself.
If I get to do this I may just get a small Alpine amp.
06finSport
Member
Yea I haven't made it out to adjust them, but they still sound good. I honestly don't know what the ohm load is on the seat speakers but I can't imaging they'd be very high at all. Any amp will do especially if it runs off of the same volume control as the radio itself