Jack Placement

T

Toncruse

Member
I was about to paint my calipers and I noticed that if I jack the FX up at the 4 points designated I can't slide the jack stands in because the jack is in the way. The only other point that I know of where you can safely jack your fx is somewhere up front in the middle, by my jack handle is not long enough to reach it. So my question: Is there any other point where you can safely jack the FX up where it wont be in the way of sliding jack stands in or do I have to go get another jack with a long handle? Thanks
 
Ehhh crap... I forgot where exactly, but I was able to put all 4 corners of mine on jack stands w/ the crappy jack I had, so there's no need for a new jack.

It was for the same thing too, painting calipers :winky:
 
Aside from the fact that you're compressing the shocks individually, what about the spring buckets? I believe I jacked up one corner using that and put a jack stand under the pinch weld on the side (skirt), then went on to the next corner, etc.

As I recall, the metal was purdy thick n strong on those and I didn't even think twice about denting them. The only thing I worried about was compressing the shocks with too much weight, but it ended up being perfectly fine for me.
 
spring bucket? newbie when it comes to this, is there a post or something that can show me what you mean? Im almost tempted to go a foot or so down from the designated spot, but Im thinking that could prove to be disastrous.
 
you should be able to jack from the pinch welds & then put a stand on the inner "frame rails", there not really frame rails, but to a unibody they are the equivelent, under the fx, closer to the center, you'l see what looks like 2 rails running half way back.. you can also support ar the suspension points...
 
Thanks guys, Im up in the air and about to eat this subway then its time to go to work. Guess it should be ready to go by tomorrow evening this time. Im using the G2 Caliper Black paint.
 
Does anyone have any pics of lift points for a floor jack? I bought one today, and I'm not sure of the best places. I used the two rails up near the front wheels and the rear diff, but I was wondering what are the recommended places. I also have jack stands once it's up in the air.
 
StuLax18 said:
Does anyone have any pics of lift points for a floor jack? I bought one today, and I'm not sure of the best places. I used the two rails up near the front wheels and the rear diff, but I was wondering what are the recommended places. I also have jack stands once it's up in the air.
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I don't have any pics, but I used Turbo's suggestion. Im sure Frankiago's would work as well, but I was more familiar with Turbo's. See above.
 
I think I know what to use now. It's just that last time I did with jack stands, the rubberized coating seemed to be giving way and I had to take the weight back off.
 
StuLax18 said:
I think I know what to use now. It's just that last time I did with jack stands, the rubberized coating seemed to be giving way and I had to take the weight back off.
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I messed up my jack points a little because you need that adaptor that comes with our jack, but I did not have that since I used a jack that I picked up at Sears. I was nervous as well, but I did not have any issues.
 
Toncruse said:
I messed up my jack points a little because you need that adaptor that comes with our jack, but I did not have that since I used a jack that I picked up at Sears. I was nervous as well, but I did not have any issues.
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I have been using my floor jack on the pinch weld spots as well and I realized I have been bending the rear weld spots. I just ordered a "Floor Jack Pinch Weld Saddle Adapter" for $16 from ebay ($22 + $5 shipping on Amazon). I wish I had known about this adapter earlier!

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theMerchant said:
I have read some Cancuks use a slotted hockey puck for a adapter :tup:
View attachment 169096


similar to a real product
http://www.purems.com/products/product.php/II=833
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Save all the mess. I taped off a hockey puck, marked a 3/8" wide groove on the top. I used a hand miter box style saw and cut on each side of the 3/8" wide groove, cut 2 more in between, all 1/2" deep. I then took a narrow flat wood chisel and cut from one side to the other with ease, leaving a very clean 3/8" x 1/2" groove. I did this with two pucks when changing pads.
 
eJay said:
I have been using my floor jack on the pinch weld spots as well and I realized I have been bending the rear weld spots. I just ordered a "Floor Jack Pinch Weld Saddle Adapter" for $16 from ebay ($22 + $5 shipping on Amazon). I wish I had known about this adapter earlier!
Click to expand...

The damage to the pinch welds is a very real concern at any shop you take your ride to. I didn't ask or pay attention earlier on and in a couple of spots my pinch welds are mangled. If they do get bent I'd also suggest making sure you check them for cracked paint as that would be a prime spot for cancer. I like the puck idea when my new garage floor is poured I'll be investing in a couple of pucks.....
 
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