How to Clean Both Throttle Bodies

Llfx said:
u recommended this to me for my problem and said the dealer might charge me for it, u have an idea of around how much it would cost?
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I think the dealer charges around $120-$150 for it.

Dude you live in NY bring it to me and I'll do it for free otherwise I say do it yourself. No need to pay the dealer for an easy service. Takes no more that 45 minutes to complete.
 
ill try to get them to do it for free 1st....they at least owe me that....if thats unsuccessful then ill give u a shout bro...thanx alot
 
Aaron, have you done this again? Just curious.

I'm thinking of doing it Monday night myself without disconnecting from the battery. I'm going to be scheduling the FX for it's 60k mile maintenance Tuesday.
 
Nope haven't done it again. I plan on doing it every 15K now. Basically everytime I change my airfilters. I can't believe dealers charge like $150 for this service that takes only like 15-20 minutes. Doing it your first time may take a little longer though. I recommend you do it. Best maintenance thing I've ever done that I actually noticed a difference.

What are you doing for your 60K maintenance by the way? I think I need a coolant flush soon. My coolant has a whole bunch of dirt in it and doesn't look blue anymore.
 
coolant flush
power steering flush (yes I know; I'm not not wanting to deal with it) Also think they will do a better job flushing.
all wheel drive service: transfer case / front&rear differential
very pre-mature oil change with ultra.
I did engine drive belts just for the heck of it around 35k miles even though it wasn't called for. I'm debating if I should do it again, but probably won't as it's unnecessary I think and will just have them take a look.

I am not doing brake flush yet because I'm assuming I will need new pads/rotors at some point soon, but don't need them as of yet and why bother with brake fluid flush then if just easier to do it then.
I'm debating on whether I want them to do a tire rotation. My wheels are in perfect shape and am worried they might get knicked even if I tell them to be careful.

getting 3 wipers, 2 engine filters, in cabin filter from infinitiusa
going to clean and lubricate locks/hinges later this week myself.
going to try throttle body for the first time Monday night myself and cleaning the seat filters.
my FX drivers absolutely perfect and straight, but I'm considering taking it to firestone for lifetime alignment, but then again thinking why bother if it drives so straight and feels perfect. I feel like if it's good, don't mess with it and I've had so many alignments done where it comes out not as perfect.

anything I miss?
 
What about transmission fluid? I would think out of all of those at 60K it would be a good idea.

When it comes time to do the transfer case and front and rear diffs I'm going to do it myself next time. I have the pump to do it with. Just missing the jack stands and torque wrench. I found out it's so easy to do and save myself $200.
 
I was thinking of taking it to Handy Andy's or my local guy here that does stuff for dirt cheap and then Kim reminded me that I probably shouldn't because of my extended warranty (that came with the purchase of the car - the limited one) could possibly not cover the power train if something were to happy unexpectedly because then you have no records of services being done (and I think I recall the dealer when I bought it reminded me the importance of this)....same with power steering having the maintenance in the records. I'm ok doing that stuff after 100k miles, but not now. I look forward to your DIY because I'll want to eventually do it or get it done cheaper by my local mechanic!

I have 2 dealerships I trust and both told me and including the mechanics not to do the trans for the 2009. Nissan themselves recommend not to touch it for the first 100k miles. I think there is some special additive they put in out of factory so I'm listening to Nissan and both dealerships on this one. Otherwise every single 2009+ FX would have a problem because every dealer is stressing not to do it.
 
My dealership has been changing transmission fluid in all the new 7 speed models and never heard of anything go wrong.

I remember back when I had it done I had called Infiniti headquarters and spoke to someone there that said it was okay. I heard that they stress about not doing it because sometimes people like using aftermarket fluid when the new 7 speeds specifically require matic s fluid and nothing else. Which leads to voiding the power train warranty.

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I changed mine at 30K and have since put 17K miles and no issues at all.
 
I never would think it would cause more hard than good (although I know filters perform better when dirty)....just thinking doing it before the first recommendation time would have minuscule benefits from what I gather.
 
First. Thanks Aaron for posting another DIY for a maintenance guru. Without this, I wouldn't have attempted to do it myself, so thank you for that tremendously.

Doing this was very easy, but I just found it really time consuming, although I spent a ton of time cleaning it. Probably cleaning each throttle body with a rag a good 10 times and probably used up 10-15 cue tips for each throttle body. It was really dirty and could definitely feel the buildup.

So why did I do this?
1. Because I'm at 60k miles and felt like I should.
2. Once several months ago the car stalled on start. This only happened once and awhile ago.
3. There were a few times I noticed the rpms dropped, but this was also a long time ago....now I'm thinking that maybe this was only happening once in a while when it was winter because I can't remember the last time it did it. But I decided from the above that the next time I have a chance to clean the throttle bodies I would.

Afterwards:
I haven't noticed anything. Before after it warmed up it would idle at 650 and now afterwards it does. I haven't noticed anything at all.....at least thus far, but I guess when you don't notice anything it's a good thing right!?

The whole being careful with the butterfly valve:
when cleaning it, I was actually going to move the butterfly valve carefully but couldn't! I put a decent amount of force on the top and then tried on the bottom and tried doing it from both sides and couldn't move either throttle body. It felt like they were locked into place and I didn't want to force it any more because I felt there was a bigger chance I would knock it out of place then. I pushed with a finger a decent amount though. In fact, when cleaning it then, I cleaning it aggressively with cue tips touching the butterfly valve a ton and with the rag a ton and pressing down on it quite a bit. I was doing this since I felt like I couldn't move it anyway. I had my paint wood stick and everything ready but just couldn't open it without attempting to do it really hard. Also, I did NOT do anything with the battery.
 
Hmm, unless its really difference design, but I can't imagine the butterfly valve would be that tight. Anyhow, glad everything work out for you. :good:
 
Imagine a door with maybe a brick holding the door closed on the floor from the other side. I probably pushed enough with my finger that I think I would have opened the door with a brick on the floor holding it closed. Anymore I felt like I was going to severely risk snapping the butterfly valve because of putting too much pressure to try to open it. And I tried to do this at the top, bottom, and from both ends. Same results on both throttle bodies.

Another thing I noticed (and not sure if this is by design) but the butterfly valve for both were not exacly at 45 angles closed. They were very slightly angled.

Does anyone know if the FX35 and FX50 2009+ throttle bodies are the same?

One thing that I did differently than normal was turn off the A/C before turning off the car to work on the throttle bodies. I noticed that my engine idles at 650 only if the a/c is not running, otherwise 750. So I wanted to make sure I was idling at 650 before I started to make sure when I was done I was at the same spot. Maybe having the A/C climate control running by default opens it up more and when cleaning it when opened up initially more makes it more loose. Who knows, this is just a dart of a guess.
 
Fire0nic3FX said:
Yea mine is slightly angled too.

Its hard to push them open mine was the same way. You have to use a lot of force to open it.
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But then does it spring back? I'm worried I'll push it out of place and won't get back to it's original location.

Turbocad mentioned treat it like an explosive device when dealing with the butterfly valve. :eek.:
 
Its difficult to push open because you are driving the gears and motor inside the TB backward. If you do it quickly you will hear the mechanism operating (gear whine).
The reason its so easy at first us that there is a tiny bit of play in the gears.
Also, the small angle of the butterfly (not quite closed) is to allow enough air through to accommodate idling. If it were truly closed the engine wouldn't run at all. ;)
 
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