Hey guys - I was curious how often you all polish your paint? I regularly wash my car by hand, and wax every few months. My paint is not quite as shiny as I'd like it and the rain doesn't bead off the car very well, but then I realized its been over a year since my last full detail (wash, clay bar, polish, wax). Its crappy weather now, but I'm wondering if a full exterior detail would be worth it to keep my paint in good condition. Or should I just wait unti Spring? Is it bad to polish your finish more than once a year? Thanks.
How often do you polish your paint?
- Thread starter defjamz
- Start date
Fire0nic3FX
Member
You can polish it as many times as you like. But a good rule of thumb is 1-2 times a year. If your polishing more than that every year, something is wrong in your washing technique. A good rule when washing your car is to use a two bucket method. One for soap and one for rinsing out your wash mitt. Next you need a good wash mitt which I recommend a sheepskin wash mitt. For drying I use waffle weave microfiber towels. On a cars paint the key is to try and not to touch the paint when washing or gliding dirt across the surface. This is what leads to dull automotive finishes.
Check out my thread on polishing here:
https://www.infinitiscene.com/searc...rter-Cable-7424XP-Time-to-tackle-these-swirls!!
I know some people on here polish by hand, but the truth is that doesn't even work at all. You won't remove any marring or swirl marks in the paint that way, you'll just be covering them up because polishes carry filling oils in them. Infiniti uses an extra hard clear coat so achieving awesome results needs to be done with a high quality machine polisher such as a Porter Cable 7424xp or FLEX DA/
Check out my thread on polishing here:
https://www.infinitiscene.com/searc...rter-Cable-7424XP-Time-to-tackle-these-swirls!!
I know some people on here polish by hand, but the truth is that doesn't even work at all. You won't remove any marring or swirl marks in the paint that way, you'll just be covering them up because polishes carry filling oils in them. Infiniti uses an extra hard clear coat so achieving awesome results needs to be done with a high quality machine polisher such as a Porter Cable 7424xp or FLEX DA/
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Thanks Aaron! I'm glad you replied since you also have a black FX, and you also clearly know what you're doing!
I've been washing with 1 bucket w/ a grit guard, with a microfiber mitt. I thought I was pretty damn careful when washing (rinsing often, very light pressure), but I still get some light swirl marks. I'll take your advice and move to a 2 bucket method and try a sheepskin mitt as well.
Dumb question - do you use a circular motion when washing, or a straight back and forth motion?
I've been washing with 1 bucket w/ a grit guard, with a microfiber mitt. I thought I was pretty damn careful when washing (rinsing often, very light pressure), but I still get some light swirl marks. I'll take your advice and move to a 2 bucket method and try a sheepskin mitt as well.
Dumb question - do you use a circular motion when washing, or a straight back and forth motion?
- Car
- Infiniti FX 35 Limited Edition
- Name
- Rip Singh
Ya that's what I was about to say, too much will damage the clear
Fire0nic3FX
Member
You can't burn through the clear with a Pc buffer only rotary buffers which by the way I wouldn't recommend for first time users. Stick with a PC7424xp buffer. If he uses a pc there is no risk damaging it.
Here is a good video explaining what I mean:
[video=youtube;2XAqpOe9Zt4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4[/video]
Here is a good video explaining what I mean:
[video=youtube;2XAqpOe9Zt4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XAqpOe9Zt4[/video]
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- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
I've never polished mine and I have owned a Porter Cable for years. I used to use it on my black truck and once on my 05 Lakeshore Slate G35 sedanI owned.
All I do to my FX is clay bar and a couple coats of Zaino Sealant a year, and that's it.
All I do to my FX is clay bar and a couple coats of Zaino Sealant a year, and that's it.
I'm not all that experienced with polish, but isn't the point of polishing just to correct prior issues so that you don't have to do it again? Everything I have read makes it seem like you should only polish if you have swirls/minor scratches/etc. and past that point, your clay bar sealant/wax jobs should protect you enough that you shouldn't have to polish again. At least not for a very long while.
Summary - Assuming you take good care of the car after the first polish, that really should be the only time it is necessary.
Summary - Assuming you take good care of the car after the first polish, that really should be the only time it is necessary.
Ill mention a few things here, especially having worked as a detailer for about two years and training people you quickly notice the common mistakes people make when washing cars.
1. NEVER do anything by hand in a circular motion, if you were to have any sort of dirt on your mit or wax or clay bar you will inflict circular scratch marks on your paint which are infinitely harder to remove than straight scratches. Your hand does not move circularly 1800 times a minute like a rotary polisher therefore use straight lines...
2. Polish and wax are NOT the same thing, polish is to cure imperfections in the paint while wax is to protect the paint. Polishing often or cut polishing the car to much will degrade your paint, so regular waxing can extend the time between polishes and therefore make your paint last that much longer.
3. Paint protection kits (often the dealer will try to convince you to buy this along with rust and undercoat and all that crap) is just a different wax compound, it is nothing special and it will wear off after 6 or so months. It does last longer than waxing and it cures really well onto the paint but you do still need to maintain this type of coating.
4. Drying your car correctly after washing is the most key stage, use a proper Shammy or microfiber (never use the glass microfibers as those are meant for picking up lots of dust not water). There are even products you can buy that wax as you dry, and while they are okay, they do not replace regular proper wax applications. But they can make it easier to dry the car and keep it looking good for longer.
5. Dry your door jams and creases and crevices well before waxing, wet wax can be bad. Having an air compressor makes this way easier but I know not everyone has access to those.
Im sure there are mannnnnny more things, but these are just a few key things I figure I would mention that I didn't see above.
1. NEVER do anything by hand in a circular motion, if you were to have any sort of dirt on your mit or wax or clay bar you will inflict circular scratch marks on your paint which are infinitely harder to remove than straight scratches. Your hand does not move circularly 1800 times a minute like a rotary polisher therefore use straight lines...
2. Polish and wax are NOT the same thing, polish is to cure imperfections in the paint while wax is to protect the paint. Polishing often or cut polishing the car to much will degrade your paint, so regular waxing can extend the time between polishes and therefore make your paint last that much longer.
3. Paint protection kits (often the dealer will try to convince you to buy this along with rust and undercoat and all that crap) is just a different wax compound, it is nothing special and it will wear off after 6 or so months. It does last longer than waxing and it cures really well onto the paint but you do still need to maintain this type of coating.
4. Drying your car correctly after washing is the most key stage, use a proper Shammy or microfiber (never use the glass microfibers as those are meant for picking up lots of dust not water). There are even products you can buy that wax as you dry, and while they are okay, they do not replace regular proper wax applications. But they can make it easier to dry the car and keep it looking good for longer.
5. Dry your door jams and creases and crevices well before waxing, wet wax can be bad. Having an air compressor makes this way easier but I know not everyone has access to those.
Im sure there are mannnnnny more things, but these are just a few key things I figure I would mention that I didn't see above.
- Car
- 2010 White FX50S-sold
- Name
- Wayne
Just a note here, you don't apply Zaino over your wax, you do it to your freshly clayed, swirl free finish. When you are all done with your coats of Zaino Sealant and you want to give it a final topcoat of your favorite wax then this is the time to do it.
Black is tough, but on my wifes caddy I dont use wax at all, sonus sealant is better than carnubas and lasts longer. I always do hers by hand, if washed correctly and clay bar is used every so often then it should come out clean. I dont have swirl marks on hers (black) or mine (copper) and I have always applied by hand. I havent polished though like MeMe was saying and I can see where overpolishing would hurt the paint. To be honest, over the summer I apply several coats of sealant so that it will last through winter and have never had any problems. I am not a detailer though, so I might not have the best techniques. From what i have read, there is no need to wax over sealant. They both serve the same purpose, wax being organic based gives a better shine or reflection but does not last as long and is used more for show vehicles these days. The sealant is not as reflective and wont give you as deep a shine but lasts a lot longer.
OK, I just ordered some Zaino's over the weekend. Z-5 Pro polish and Z-CS sealant. It was a bit confusing since some folks call the Z-5 a 'sealant' but it is described as a polish on the Zaino website. So I went ahead and ordered Z5 and ZCS. Can't wait until we get a dry day here in the NW (maybe in 3 months???) so I can test this stuff out.
When washing or waxing, I always use back and forth motion. Have you ever seen a black car with "star bursts" in the paint in bright sunlight? This is caused by micro-fine scratches in the surface because of circular motion when washing or waxing your car. Back and forth motion defracts the light so you don't see this star burst effect.