Help with Suspension - What to Replace?

Chedman13

Chedman13

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iS VIP
Location
Illinois
Car
2014 Mercedes-Benz GL63 4Matic
After 100k miles, I am finally changing out my suspension to get a "new" feel. I want to make sure I buy all the parts I need in advance. Please let me know if I'm missing anything! Since most other parts are cheap except for the main (strut/shocks), I'm inclined to replace anything that might need it.

At the moment, I only know the basics that I should replace:
1) Left Strut (1 of Manufacturer Part #: 339056)
2) Right Strut (1 of Manufacturer Part #: 339055)
3) Left & Rear Shocks (2 of Manufacturer Part #: 349027)
4) KYB Strut Boot Front (2 of Manufacturer Part #: SB105)
5) KYB Strut Boot Rear (2 of Manufacturer Part #: SB103) -- I'm guessing this is the rear shock boot? That's just what they have listed on the tirerack website.
6) Front Strut Bearings

If there is anything else, please let me know from the diagrams below:
Rear Suspension:
1) SHOCK ABSORBER 2) BUMPER 3) SHOCK MOUNT 4) COIL SPRING 5) SPRING SEAT 6) KNUCKLE 7) HUB ASSY 8) LATERAL ARM 9) RADIUS ARM 10) UPPER CONTROL ARM 11) LOWER CONTROL ARM 12) STABILIZER BAR 13) BUSHINGS 14) BRACKET 15) LINK 16) CROSSMEMBER
F625110.gif


Front Suspension:
1) FRONT HUB 2) KNUCKLE 3) STRUT 4) STRUT BUMPER 5) SPRING INSULATOR 6) COIL SPRING 7) SPRING SEAT 8) STRUT BEARING 9) STRUT MOUNT 10) SPACER 11) LOWER CONTROL ARM 12) STABILIZER BAR 13) BUSHINGS 14) BRACKET 15) LINK 16) CROSSMEMBER 17) MOUNTING BRACKET
F625050.gif


2003-2008 FX35/FX45 AWD Part Numbers. RWD probably the same, but no guarantee.


These are the parts that were worn on my car at 100,000 miles:


54325-8J000 (#8) Front Strut Bearing $17.83, need 2
54613-Cg006 (#13) Front Sway Bar Bushing $6.16, need 2
54034-CK000 (#5) Front Lower Rubber Seat $13.56, need 2
54035-8J000 (#5) Front Lower Rubber Seat (another) $2.90, need 2
48520-CG025 Front Outer Tie Rod $47.21, need 1
48640-CG085 Front Outer Tie Rod $47.21, need 1
339056 (KYB Left Strut), need 1
339055 (KYB Right Strut), need 1
SB105 (KYB Strut Boot Kit), need 2

54613-CG024 (#13) Rear Sway Bar Bushing $4.06, need 2
55336-CG020 (#3) Rear Shock Bracket $20.50, need 1
55337-CG020 (#3) Rear Shock Bracket $20.50, need 1
55050-AL500 (#5) Rear Upper Spring Rubber Seat $24.34, need 2
55036-WL000 (#5) Rear Lower Rubber Seat $11.06, need 2
56218-CG020 Rear Shock Absorber Bushing $6.41, need 2
56217-CG010 Rear Shock Absorber Bushing (another) $7.44, need 2
349027 (KYB Rear Shocks), need 2
SB103 (KYB Rear Shock Boot Kit), need 2
 
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Should be everything you need just check for worn --spring seats,stabalizer bushings,any pivot points that may be loose or worn.
 
StuLax18 said:
+1, exactly what I was thinking. Won't they replace most of the stuff anyway?
Click to expand...

You are correct, I was almost the reviewer for the BC Coil overs but backed out last second.

My struts/shocks have lasted me 100,000 miles and still no leaks or issues, just replacing as they will need it soon probably anyways.

1) I wouldn't mind going a little lower, but I like my stance as is. Any lower, might cause me rubbing issues with the suspension arms and for sure in the rear, the fender extra sheet metal (so need to dremel or roll). In short, I could be opening up pandora's box with a setup I'm happy with.
2) Alignment, my specs are at the extreme of factory specs. Any lower, I would need alignment kits, just not something I want the headache of now.
3) Universal coil overs with car specific mounts. I just hesitate because on a lighter car, that would be totally fine (and maybe fine for ours), but being a SUV and much heavier, seeing the spring size difference between a coil over and H&R/OEM is huge.
4) I like the idea of a fixed setup, less moving parts to break.

All that being said, the cost difference of KYB struts/shocks vs coil overs is around $700 (a little skewed since I already have H&R springs). If I didn't already have H&R springs, it would make my decision a lot harder.

Another big factor is that I have the camshaft mod that is a higher priority:tup:

---------- Post added at 10:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:05 AM ----------
MTN FX said:
Should be everything you need just check for worn --spring seats,stabalizer bushings,any pivot points that may be loose or worn.
Click to expand...

Thanks -- I know I already asked you this:rofl:
 
Good points Ed. Since I have already done a new kyb install myself, I probably won't be doing the a coilover for a while if at all. But this also depends on the reviews that are bound to follow. Like you, I am pretty satisfied with my stance and drop also.
 
rookie said:
New parts will feel good. Consider wheel bearings at 100k if you have not already changed them. :p
Click to expand...

Good point on the wheel bearings.

Does anyone know if I'll save labor costs if I do the suspension and hub bearings at the same time? I'm guessing so because they are in there already.

I replaced my front passenger hub bearing at 100k miles. I have an extra one I ordered for the drivers side hub bearing ($125 online vs $250 at the dealership!), but never replaced it yet because it hasn't gone bad yet.

Should I replace the remaining three right now or just wait until my car sounds like an airplane trying to take off (i.e. sound of bearings gone bad)? Hub bearings aren't cheap, though labor isn't cheap either.

And yes, I'm not tackling this project and going to be paying my local mechanic to do this.:embarrassed:
 
I believe you replace the entire hub, not just the bearing. Though if you know somebody with the tools to do just the bearing - that's a much cheaper way to go. As far as the hub goes - it's not that tough. I even found this very clearly written DIY right here in our own forum:

///7595 :wink:
 
jumbosrule said:
I believe you replace the entire hub, not just the bearing. Though if you know somebody with the tools to do just the bearing - that's a much cheaper way to go. As far as the hub goes - it's not that tough. I even found this very clearly written DIY right here in our own forum:

///7595 :wink:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link.

Yeah, it's the entire hub. I have one sitting under my desk=) These are pretty dang heavy!
 
Personally, I'd do them in pairs (front or rear) on an as needed basis. There are myriad reasons a wheel bearing can go belly-up, only one of which is the end of it's predicted service life. One could be bad now and it could be 5K miles before the next one goes. Doing them in pairs just makes sense to me for some reason.
However, in the spirit of your "new suspension" project, it couldn't hurt to do them all now if you have the time/money.
 
tchuck said:
Personally, I'd do them in pairs (front or rear) on an as needed basis. There are myriad reasons a wheel bearing can go belly-up, only one of which is the end of it's predicted service life. One could be bad now and it could be 5K miles before the next one goes. Doing them in pairs just makes sense to me for some reason.
However, in the spirit of your "new suspension" project, it couldn't hurt to do them all now if you have the time/money.
Click to expand...

I was going to do that, but there are users here where one went bad at 30k miles and the other went bad at 100k miles.

Since there is no time save in doing both at the same time, as they are on opposite sides and no labor benefits, it made sense to diagnosis which wheel bearing went bad and only replace that one.

Only reason I'm bringing this up is if this happens to you, it could save you money in the long run as you could be potentially replacing a perfectly fine hub bearing.

That being said, since I am at 100k miles, it would be more of a suspension overhaul and replacing all new parts, so it might make sense for me to replace all remaining 3. Or I can risk it and not change them and pray they don't go bad within 10-20k miles, or so.
 
Can someone enlighten me about lower control arms?

I was talking to a Nissan Master Tech and he said it's very similar to the Murano's lower control arms and those fail typically around 100k miles. He said the ball joint is on there.

Anyways, his recommendations were and associated labor/parts (please note this is just for your reference. Also these are dealer prices on labor and parts):
1) Front Struts = $820
2) Rear Shocks = $600
3) Front sway bar bushings = $150
4) Rear sway bar bushings = $100
5) Front Lower control arm = $785
6) Rear Lower control arm = $650
7) Hub bearings are $130 per bearing for only labor. No cost savings in labor by doing anything together.
8) Alignment is recommended afterward at $130

Any insight on the Front/Rear Lower control arms and if I should get this done would be helpful. If it fails, what goes wrong? Will the ride improve? I had no idea I should get this done.

Thanks.
 
so almost there -- replaced most of the suspension parts (anything rubber + struts and shocks). The strut bearing was destroyed and the bearings went all over the garage floor when removed. Source of "clunk" sound -- found.

Some how lost the strut bearing I ordered and now car is out of commission as the strut can't be put together until the new one arrives in 2-3 days. Yeah, the strut bearing was on my kitchen table and transferred into my car trunk -- I think someone broke into my car to steal only the strut bearings to mess with me:wink (2):. Anyways, who knows, I probably dropped it somewhere.

Didn't do lower control arms, but did do outer tie rods for just the front. Swap bar bushings done too.

Can't wait to drive it.
 
Surprised how many parts I ended up replacing, a lot of "serviceable" parts.

I'll try to post what exactly I replaced. There are a lot of "metal parts" that have rubber bushings that do need replacing. The sway bar bushings and front outer tie rods were in need of replacing too.

Ride feels like brand new. Will give more details later as well.
View attachment 207064
View attachment 207065
View attachment 207066
 
Dr.2K said:
That pretty thorough Ed, nice work! A list would be great info.
Click to expand...

2003-2008 FX35/FX45 AWD Part Numbers. RWD probably the same, but no guarantee.


These are the parts that were worn on my car at 100,000 miles:


54325-8J000 (#8) Front Strut Bearing $17.83, need 2
54613-Cg006 (#13) Front Sway Bar Bushing $6.16, need 2
54034-CK000 (#5) Front Lower Rubber Seat $13.56, need 2
54035-8J000 (#5) Front Lower Rubber Seat (another) $2.90, need 2
48520-CG025 Front Outer Tie Rod $47.21, need 1
48640-CG085 Front Outer Tie Rod $47.21, need 1
339056 (KYB Left Strut), need 1
339055 (KYB Right Strut), need 1
SB105 (KYB Strut Boot Kit), need 2

54613-CG024 (#13) Rear Sway Bar Bushing $4.06, need 2
55336-CG020 (#3) Rear Shock Bracket $20.50, need 1
55337-CG020 (#3) Rear Shock Bracket $20.50, need 1
55050-AL500 (#5) Rear Upper Spring Rubber Seat $24.34, need 2
55036-WL000 (#5) Rear Lower Rubber Seat $11.06, need 2
56218-CG020 Rear Shock Absorber Bushing $6.41, need 2
56217-CG010 Rear Shock Absorber Bushing (another) $7.44, need 2
349027 (KYB Rear Shocks), need 2
SB103 (KYB Rear Shock Boot Kit), need 2
 
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