FX45 electric fan conversion

Had to do some troubleshooting on the electric fans because I noticed I haven't hear them coming on lately and this is what I found was the plastic around the glass fuse holder melted opposite side of the red 4 AWG wire hooked up directly to the positive battery terminal. Only the clear plastic around the gold wire connector melted, the wires and pvc around the wires were fine. Also the fuse did not blow and still good, only thing is the clear plastic melted on it so its stuck in place. I'm thinking the 40A fuse is too much, causing the excess heat. If someone can chime in on this, I was wondering would replacing the 40A with a 35A or a 30A or even something lower fix this problem? I don't know when did the melting started happening, but it melted all the way until the gold wire connector is exposed. I have been doing a lot of short driving for a few months so I didn't really realize the fan was not coming on earlier. I switched out the fuse holder and the fans are working again.
 
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I think the melting is due to the heat from the engine rather than the flow of current. I think a 30A should be ok if you want to try. Try to find a fuse holder that can handle the heat in the engine bay or relocate the fuse where it have direct air flow over it to reduce the surrounding heat build up.
 
I had the fuse holder attached to the bundle of wire coming off of the positive battery terminal stuffed into a big wire loom from factory in the battery compartment behind the plastic shield with the lid that says "battery" attached. The side that melted was the side that was pointing towards the hood not the side behind the motor. I'll probably move it more up towards the firewall on my next off day. But check out the pic of what it looks like and tell me what you think. I took the pic standing in front of the pass. side fender, in between the side mirror and rim with the whole battery compartment/shield removed. It seems like the only part that is getting hot is the part that that has the exposed gold wire connector, because under the exposed connector the plastic is still intact and the opposite side I'm still able to twist the plastic that seals the gold connector.


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Wow, that look pretty bad. Mine is mounted right below the power steering reservoir right behind the fan for three years without any melting. It starting to crack though.
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I'll extend the 4awg wire so I can move mines to where you got yours, that way it will be easy to check when I check my oil. But I was also thinking to switching to a fuse holder that uses the blade/flat fuse, or would I have to use one of those big boxy female 40a fuses if I decide not to use the glass fuse?
 
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yeah, that's really what I'm leaning towards, but for the blade type fuse holder, I can only find it attached to a 8 AWG wire. I can't seem to find one attached to a 4 AWG, I'm not sure if I'm just not looking in the right place. But that leads me to my question, would a 8AWG wire be acceptable for our application? Or would using the 4AWG wire a must?
 
Anyone have a non-dead link or writeup? I remember years ago seeing this and thinking now, if I'm going to be dicking around with changing a chafed belt, I might as well do this too. I see plenty of parts lists but I'd rather not just buy the stuff and figured it out for myself if there's a writeup somewhere
 
I'm sure you can wire the Dakota fan module to bypass input from the temp sensor, but the fan will be on constantly. What are you trying to achieve?

Please excuse reviving an old thread, but what location did you use for the Dakota temp pick up sensor? I recently did the e fan conversion but didn’t install a temp pick up sensor because I purchased the Dakota Digital BIM Expansion kit to try and get the coolant temp through the OBDII port and try to keep it OEM but unfortunately German and Asian protocols are not supported through the BIM, I have the PAC 2800BT controller.

I tried to keep it through the AC switch but with today’s weather stuck in traffic, the temps got pretty up there, as high as 230 which I then had to turn off the ac and use the app to turn on the fans without the ac on and dropped it a good amount. A good 15-20 degree drop
 
I stick the temperature sensor into the thermostat housing cap. Be sure position the sensor on the housing such that it will clear the thermostat. At the same time, making sure you can slide the bolts back into the housing for re-installation.

I'm suggesting you should consider tap into the air conditioner fan wire instead of installing a temperature sensor. I see that you have made comments in this thread ttps://www.infinitiscene.com/threads/flex-a-lite-electric-fan-conversion.411497/#post-1382212


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I stick the temperature sensor into the thermostat housing cap. Be sure position the sensor on the housing such that it will clear the thermostat. At the same time, making sure you can slide the bolts back into the housing for re-installation.

I'm suggesting you should consider tap into the air conditioner fan wire instead of installing a temperature sensor. I see that you have made comments in this thread ttps://www.infinitiscene.com/threads/flex-a-lite-electric-fan-conversion.411497/#post-1382212


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So when you say tap into the ac fan wire, are you referring to that wire that when pressing the ac button you activate the cooling fans once tapped? If so, I have that set up with the pac2800bt, I have one wired up on the low fan and the other on the high fan through the controller but I noticed that it didn’t cool the temps down like I’ve anticipated on the first hot day of 75 degrees stuck in traffic and the temps climbed up to 230. I tried the other option and let the controller turn it on through a non working temp sender selection on the Dakota Digital app and I managed to bring the temps down to 205-210 degrees but man it had me a bit nervous lol. This is the reason why I’m going with adding a sensor to the t stat housing because I want it to work like OEM and not have to turn it on myself
 
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