Fog fuse?

jumbosrule

jumbosrule

Fully FX Invested
Premium
Location
Redondo Beach, CA
Car
2003 FX35T
Name
Brad
My fog lights stopped working about a year ago - the glass was broken by road debris. I replaced the entire assembly, but the lights still won't come on. I had to remove the bumper so it was a major pita. Now the lights are at least installed and not broken, but they don't come on, either. If not the fuse is there anything else I can check?

Thanks...
 
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///2142

The search feature is your friend.....friends til the end!:laugh::laugh:
 
Followed this thread all the way to the fuse box behind the battery. Checked it and the fuse was fine. So now I really have no idea why my fog lights don't come on.:k:

On the up side, I think I have finally gained a little skill with popping out the plastic fasteners. Didn't break any this time...
 
* Im sure you are aware that the foglights only can come on when the headloghts are on, (except if you have a aftermarket controller)

go and download the "Lighting System Manual" from here (free registration) and look at page LT77

Start testing the different points and see if you get the correct voltage

http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/local_links.php?catid=42


sorry could attach the diagram of the location of the fuses (its in the download)
Power is supplied at all times
through 15A fuse [No. 88, located in IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room)]
to front fog lamp relay [located in IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room)]
through 15A fuse [No. 78, located in IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room)]
to CPU (central processing unit) [located in IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room)
through 10A fuse [No. 71, located in IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room)]
to CPU (central processing unit) [located in IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine
room)].
Power is also supplied at all times
through 50A fusible link (letter M, located in fuse and fusible link block)
to BCM (body control module) terminal 55
through 15A fuse [No. 22, located in fuse block (J/B)]
to BCM (body control module) terminal 42.
When ignition switch is in ON or START position, power is supplied
through 15A fuse [No. 1, located in fuse block (J/B)]
to BCM (body control module) terminal 38.
When ignition switch is in ACC or ON position, power is supplied
through 10A fuse [No. 6, located in fuse block (J/B)]
to BCM (body control module) terminal 11.
Ground is supplied
to BCM (body control module) terminals 49 and 52
through grounds M35, M45 and M85
to IPDM E/R (intelligent power distribution module engine room) terminals 38 and 60
through grounds E21, E50 and E51.
Click to expand...
Fog Lamp Operation
Fog lamp switch is built into combination switch. Lighting switch must be in 2ND position or AUTO position
(LOW beam is ON) and fog lamp switch must be ON for fog lamp operation.
With fog lamp switch in the ON position, CPU of IPDM E/R grounds coil side of fog lamp relay. Fog lamp relay
then directs power
through IPDM E/R terminal 37
to front fog lamp LH terminal 1
through IPDM E/R terminal 36
to front fog lamp RH terminal 1.
Ground is supplied
to front fog lamp LH terminal 2
through grounds E21, E50 and E51, and
to front fog lamp RH terminal 2
through grounds E21, E50 and E51.
With power and grounds supplied, front fog lamps illuminate
Click to expand...


maybe a bad relay?
 
This was perfect! Within 20 minutes of this post I had the fogs working. Whipped out the DMM and as I went to test the first point, I spotted the wire damage about five inches from the relay box just before the wire bundle cover begins. Never had a chance to use the meter. Looks like rubbing - from vibration - dissentigrated the insulation against the sheet metal wall, of just this one wire. I'm guessing it was the relay signal line. I cut at the damaged point and butt spliced the two peices. Then heat shrunk over the splice and wrapped the whole bundle with electrical tape so that it wasn't touching the wall anymore. Had to remove the battery cover and the battery itself to get access.

Stuck the key in the ignition and everything popped on. Awesome. Thanks so much for the post - I wouldn't have found the short without it!

*Bonus - you get to clean in all the nooks and crannies of those plastic peices around the windshield and battery cover. Very satisfying.

Is there a way to pop that back breaker/relay panel off the mount and bring it up over the battery so you can work on it more easily? It looks like there is a bit of harness slack at the bottom, allowing the whole panel at least a little movement.

I still need to wire the halos from my new fogs. I'm trying to decide when they should come on - should I wire them to the DTRL relay? Or maybe just on when headlights are on? Independent switch? Other ideas?
 
Finished the wiring today - both the projectors and Halos are now working, but I'm not satisfied.

Since these fogs are OEM - for a Nissan Altima (I think), the color temperatures of the Halos and the projectors inside the fogs don't match each other. This doesn't really bother me because my plan was to use the halos at the same time as the DTRLs, and the fog projectors at the same time as the headlights. But after finishing up today,I see this doesn't work for me because of the color temp differences.

Luckily, the fog Halo color temp matches the OEM headlight projectors. And the fog projector matches the OEM DTRLs. So the best way to go has got to be to link the matching color temps together (DTRL/fog projectors) and the headlights/fog halos. Which means cutting and swapping the power lines between the fog halo/projectors. Which brings me to my next question.

I assume the projector bulb draws more current than the LED Halos do. Right now, I'm spliced off the DTRL wire for Halo power. If I swap the fog halo/projector power lines to get the matching color temps to come on at the same time, then the fog projector bulb will be spliced off the DTRLs.

QUESTION: Will brightness suffer from either the fog projector or the DTRL because I'm increasing the load on the circuit (adding the fog projector to the existing DTRL circuit)?

The Halos should not be a problem because they would be (once I swap) using the OEM fog circuit all alone. If I'm not getting full power to the lights, then do I get rid of the splice and just run a new power wire from the headlight relay/fuse, to make sure I get full power to the fog projectors?
 
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Ok, I developed the same problem - my passenger fog assembly was damaged by road debris. Shortly after the damage occurred, both fogs quit working. I replaced both fog assemblies (a real PITA) and they didn't work.

I downloaded the lighting system service manual and began by checking the fuses. While I was in there, I even replaced all of the fuses with the ones that light up when blown. All fuses checked out OK.

Still no lights, so I started the test procedures with a multimeter. Right off the bat, noticed that there was no voltage at the wiring harnass, so I traced back the wiring. All of the wiring looked fine, and it is properly grounded. I did some additional tests and I think I have narrowed it down to the most likely culprit being a bad Front Fog Lamp Relay.

(Rant: I hate having to remove so much stuff to access a fuse panel, and it is really tight working in there!)

So my question is, where can I buy a new fog lamp relay and which model do I get?

When you look at the IPDM E/R panel, there are three relays on the far right side at the top. The first one is a throttle control motor relay, the second one down is a fuel pump relay and the third one down is the fog lamp relay. These three all look the same (black), and I presume that they are the same type of relay. There are also two additional relays down below under the three cooling fan relays...one is sky blue (left fog) and the other is white (right fog).

I am guessing that I probably only need to replace the black relay up top. Thoughts?

I did a lot of internet searches but could not find a place to get a replacement relay. There are Nissan relays out there, but they are mostly for Altimas and not my modek year (2005). Anyone know where to get one? The local parts store(s) don't have anything close.

Final question is...do the relays just pop out of the IPDM Terminal box, or is there a special way to get them out? I tried pulling the fog relay to examine it but it was securely stuck in there and I don't want to break anything.

Thanks :biggrin:
 
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