Door Actuator Replacement - For Under $5!!!!

fxlr8

fxlr8

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This is a super quick writeup that doesn't go into full detail but shows that you can use a universal actuator on our cars.

The original idea came from this thread >> $5 Door Lock Motor (Actuator) Fix - G35Driver

But our cars are a bit different, we don't have all the pretty mounting areas and stuff. I am sure if you really wanted to spend the time to do it beautifully and fabricated a mount it would work even better.

First Remove your door panel.

Unhook all the necessary wires and bring your panel inside and get ready to work on it.

(Bit of a warning, the pictures may be all messed up because I had to modify as I went to make it work.)

Here is the underside of the door panel.
P1040442.png

Trace your actuator onto the stiff foam.
P1040443.png

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Cut the foam and fit the actuator in.
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Fully cut this piece off to make room for the 3 screw mounting piece.
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Also fully cut this bottom piece flat.
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Drill a hole to run the metal connector (in the picture I had to lower the hole down to the red area to make it work). So drill the hole lower than the pic.
hole.png

Measure the rod and mark it, you will need enough space to make the actuator go in and out.
maRK.png

Cut the rod after you are happy with the location.

Test fit everything, make sure the actuator is fully closed towards itself.
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After I was happy with the fit I just used 2 zip ties to mount it firmly to the foam block.
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To wire the actuator (which I forgot to take a picture of) remove the door speaker and on the bottom inside the door you will see some wires, you will want to use the Purple and Gray wire. I just cut the wires and connected it so that the factory actuator would not get juice anymore, you could just tap into the wires if you don't feel like cutting.
wires.png


Connect the wires and test the actuator, you will have to plug in the door control to test it.

Make sure lock locks and open opens. If it is opposite reverse the wires.

Here is everything put back together.
end.png

I know this was a quick write-up but really you are going to have to fiddle with it until you figure it out. It may give you a hard time, but it is definitely better then paying over a $100 for the oem actuator which requires more work.

I actually bought this actuator on ebay for under 5 bucks so even if it fails I can just replace it and still save money.

Here is a vid of it working.

I may redo it in the future, just to fine tune it.
 

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Ummmm yes definitely doing this mod. It doesn't look that hard compared to other mods. I think taking off and putting the door on is going to be the hardest part for me. Thanks for the find!

---------- Post added at 03:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:38 AM ----------

Btw should all the doors have the foam thing and the procedures are similar? Also did u get the actuator off of ebay?

---------- Post added at 03:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 AM ----------

 
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Tested a few times today and it's working great.

I am not sure about the rears since I have never taken off the panels in the rear.
 
awesome DIY jeff.. Very cost efficient.. i mean the oem one cost over $120.00 and this universal one cost $5.. very nice...

could you post the link to the universa actuator.

where to get it.
 
I think the factory ones are more, it's part of the whole latch, think they were over $200 last I checked... I always figured I'd add aftermarket actuators on mine when the time comes, it don't look bad on the door panel itself, looks good & does the job nice :)
 
I was doing my rear drivers side door and I don't see the wires you are talking about. I see wires that lead to the actuator. 1 purple/white wire and one green/yellow wire. I tried both and no luck. The universal actuator just acts up a bit. Any ideas?
 
I did this back in Sept of 09. I purchased 3 actuators from PartsExpress.com. Mine worked for a while, then the actuators started to fail. I would replace them, and they eventually failed again. I didn't do a write up because I wanted to make sure this worked perfectly for a longer period of time. My actuators sucked....I just got fed up with the failing actuators....and ended up going back to stock

I ended up purchasing the stock actuators from Riverside Infiniti for approx $150 ea...AND since I cut out the door handle like you, I had to buy a new one from InfintitpartsUSA for another $50.

My experience...very similar to how you did it, but I made a bracket and took the foam out. Hopefully your actuators work better than mine....

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Hmm how come the inside of your door looks different from mines? Mines has like this plastic wrap around it. I saw this wiring leading to the actuator and thought that was it. I opened the speaker and did see a black tube. I guess I'll try that one out but I was sure there were only two wires leading to the actuator.

How long was it before the actuator failed? Thanks.
 
Vash610 said:
Hmm how come the inside of your door looks different from mines? Mines has like this plastic wrap around it. I saw this wiring leading to the actuator and thought that was it. I opened the speaker and did see a black tube. I guess I'll try that one out but I was sure there were only two wires leading to the actuator.

How long was it before the actuator failed? Thanks.
Click to expand...

If you are doing the rear door, it will have the plastic wrap....Fxlr8 and my pics is of the front door.

My first actuator failed immediatley...well I'll be honest...I hooked it up to the wrong wires and fried it... along with the ikey security fuse by the battery (car wont start or lock) The wires that were used on the G35 are not the same color we use...LOL!:rofl:

The second one lasted about 1 month....and the 3rd lasted about 2 months...just got fed up with it. Changed to stock and they've lasted 11 months with no issues.

My front AND rear actuators went out at about the same time...Imagine trying to get a baby out of your passenger side with the door unable to open! I had to change the rear and the front so the $5 actuator option looked REALLY good to me! oh well's..hopefully Jeff's lasts longer than mine.
 
I looked behind the speaker and I have this:
Photo0028.jpg

Then it splits then the ones that go the actuator looks like this:
Photo0030.jpg
It has two purple and two blue wires. Can any help?:confused:
 

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Hey fxlr8, thanks for the awesome write up. I'm debating on whether to go with your fix, or buy OEM actuator for my drivers door. You stated that the OEM is more difficult to install, could you elaborate on that? I'm totally unfamiliar with the workings of the actuator assembly but will get it if explained. Thanks.
 
Here is the diy for the oem actuator ///5330

As an update, my universal one is still working fine.
 
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