Coolant , Gear , Transmisison & transfer box Oil Questions

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irokdastar

Member
Hello everyone just got a 2005 fx35 . I want to go ahead and do full maintenance on it because I am not sure when the last owner did anything . I have a questions about the oils to use for Coolant , Gear , Transmisison & transfer box . can anyone help me . I know I can go to Nissan but they want nearly 300 dollars for all the oil which is crazy . What do you guys recommend for each one?
 
I recommend searching. I dont remember all the fluid viscosities I used when I did my front diff, center diff and rear diff last summer.
 
I read on the fourm that the front and rear diffs I can use mobile 1 75W90 but the transfer case uses transmission fluid . I wanted to see if I can use a different brand than Nissan for this . they want $18 a bottle ...
 
I used the mobil 1 for diff i believe and prestone 50/50 coolant. no problems. Use the Matic-S tranny fluid though. Don't skimp on that.
 
You don't have to use Matic S for the transmission. Any JASO 1A fluid will be fine, I run Mobil 1. Matic S is made by Castrol and it's full synthetic while Matic J is a synthetic blend. Our cars originally came with Matic J, but S supersedes it and is compatible. Your transmission will be fine with just about any synthetic that meets the standard.

I run Mobil 1 on my front and rear diffs as well. For coolant, just about any phosphate free coolant will be fine. So almost everything in any auto parts store.

Transfer case uses transmission fluid.
 
i looked up Castrol and I got TRANSMAX™ IMPORT MULTI-VEHICLE which works on matci J & S . Do I do a flush and refill the whole thing . or just drop the pan ? in both cases how many quarts do I need? I will be dropping the pan regardless and changing the filter. Thnak you guys for the help
 
You don't need to do a flush, I don't know if you'd even be able to do that on your own. And there's no need to remove your pan, there's not a replaceable filter. It's just a metal screen on the valve body. You can do the method in the DIY or you can just use the drain bolt on the pan. For me, the drain bolt was much easier and far less messy. Plus it doesn't require 2 people. Neither method will get out the fluid in the torque converter and actual transmission. To do that, you'd need to be cycling through the gears with the car on jackstands which doesn't seem that safe. You'll get about 5 quarts from the drain bolt.

I did a change at ~47K miles since I swapped the valve body. The fluid then looked brand new and red. I ended up having to do it again 5K later due to a valve body issue, fluid was of course brand new. And now 10K after that, I checked the fluid and it's still brand new. It's all going to vary on driving styles, but if you inspect your fluid and it's not burnt or black, it's probably ok for a while. The differential fluids were another story, at 50K, mine were both full of black fluid and the magnetic drain plugs had a lot of sludge/debris.
 
thank you guys for all the info. I wont be doing it . I have to replace my tie rod end at the mechanic and I am having him do all the changing . I spoke to him today and he advised me not to flush because he doesn't recommend flushing of the transmission . He says it can cause issues . He recommended just to drop the pan . I have a questions for shadow about the filter / Mesh screen . Isnt it better to replace it in case there are metal shavings or debris ?
 
Here's what the screen should look like.

IMG_1267-1.jpg

The rectangle in the middle is where the screen is. This pic is off a 350Z, but it should be the same for the rest of us (mine looked the same). You can replace the entire black part I believe as the mesh is built into that part and not separate. But unless you have some reason to believe that it's really dirty, there's not much point. I've seen mine a few times now and it's always perfectly clean. Dropping the pan gets you maybe 3/4 quart more fluid out than just the drain bolt. Unless you had some reason to take the pan off, it's not really needed for a simple drain and fill. It's not hard, but it's a ton of bolts. To me, the worst part about swapping valve bodies aside from the mess was simply taking all those bolts off.

Maybe drain the fluid and see how it looks, if it's got metal shavings or contamination in it, then consider replacing the filter. You can also buy an inline filter that can go on a hose to the cooler. That filter is probably going to pick up more stuff than the OEM screen and you could swap it out pretty easily in the future.
 

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The filter/mesh screen cannot be removed without taking the valve body off the trans. When I took mine apart to install the Transgo Shift Kit, the filter still very very clean after 9 years of driving.

See picture #6 in this thread. There are a few bolts that goes through to the upper side of the valve body.
https://www.infinitiscene.com/search/1/?q=12634-Transgo-Shift-Kit-Installation

---------- Post added at 12:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:22 PM ----------

Here is the other side of the filter. It not dirty in my opinion.
DSC02403_zps35a2bfae.jpg
 

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Ill keep it on the safe side and just use the drain plug for now. last time I didn't think on my Lexus the filter was removed without having to mess with the throttle body . If I do the drain only how many quarts would I need?
 
Maybe 5? When I dropped the pan, it was closer to 6, but the pan holds nearly a quart. I'd buy 6 or 7 to be safe and it never hurts to have an extra bottle around just in case.
 
Randomly this is for my 03 FX45...

From the Royal Purple techs...
I am a fan i guess of them but only due to using the stuff and it makes a noticeable difference...
I have not done this on my FX45 as i just got it a few weeks ago and I am in the same boat... no clue what the previous owner did... So i will be switching things out as i can.

[FONT=&quot]Listed below is our recommended Royal Purple products for your 2003 Infiniti FX45 4.5L. If there is more than one option listed below, the higher performing option will be listed first.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Engine: Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle), Royal Purple HMX 5W-30 (part #11744, quart bottle), Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle); 7 quarts
(HMX is High Mileage[/FONT])

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Oil Filter: Royal Purple Extended Life Oil Filter #10-2867[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Auto. Transmission: Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle); pan drain and refill- not specified in my technical references / dry fill- 10.9 quarts[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Differentials: Royal Purple Max Gear 75W-90 (part #01300, quart bottle); Front- 0.7 quarts, Rear- 1.5 quarts[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Transfer Case: Royal Purple Synchromax (part #01512, quart bottle), Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle); 1.25 quarts[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Power Steering: Royal Purple Max EZ (part #01326, 12 oz. bottle), Royal Purple Synchromax (part #01512, quart bottle), Royal Purple Max ATF (part #01320, quart bottle);[/FONT]
 
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