Camber question

All re-aligned and tracking nicely...

What's weird, though -- I put the car up on jack stands and had it up for about 5 days, got the rear alignment bolts replaced. When I bought it back in, the front was considerably different (and steering wheel off-centered). I know adjusting the rear can affect the driveability, but I didn't think it would mess up front alignment that much.

Front Measurements After first alignment/After my work/2nd alignment:

LF Camber: -0.7, -1.0, -1.0
LF Caster: 4.0, 3.6, 3.6
LF Toe: 0.06, -0.02, .04

RF Camber: -1.4, -0.9, -0.9
RF Caster: 3.8, 3.7, 3.7
RF Toe: 0.07, -0.08, .04
Total Toe: 0.42, -0.10, .08

Anyway -- it's all good now, but just thought that was weird. All well within spec with stock bolts on H&R's.
 
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Yeah, an issue in the rear can really throw off the steering. When I replaced my bolts, and before alignment, I guess I didn't tighten them all the way down, and one slipped after I punched it. All of a sudden my steering wheel was off a few degrees, and one rear wheel was at like -4 degrees camber.
 
Trust me, if your rear alignment is off bad enough, it will pull your vehicle out of line, at which point you have to steer counter to that or you won't go straight. I've driven home with the steering almost a 1/4 turn one way just to go straight. Recently I think it was my toe that was pointed way out that did it. Also, this a few years ago with a bent spring bucket.

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Good times :tongue:
 

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Oversteer to oversteer into curb. Honestly I still don't really understand how I managed it. Driving home was great though, scrub scrub scrub.

Just found my alignment sheet from a month ago, left rear toe was -1.65 degrees so that's why it was pulling after it slipped. Right rear was only -0.3 degrees. I had marked my alignment before I swapped bolts, so it was kinda good up until the one bolt slipped.
 
I understand the rear being out of alignment can affect driveability altogether -- make the car pull left/right, etc -- but I can't imagine how it would mess up the 'static' front end alignment. Once you have the car up on a rack without a load/impetus it seems to me it would be no different than the last adjustment, assuming no bolts were left loose.

At any rate -- car is 100% aligned now. I just don't get how I could've left the shop with the front end aligned, did nothing to the front end, and end up at the shop with the front all misaligned.
 
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How long did you drive before realignment? Maybe big pothole? But that is sort of weird unless you changed ride height, the rear alignment shouldn't impact the front that much.
 
I hardly drove at all -- and didn't hit anything. I literally drove it home that day, waited a couple days for the weekend, started removing the bolts that weekend, left it up on jackstands (the back) until I got the bolts and replaced them the following Thursday. Then got it realigned the next day.
 
Would be that they didn't tighten the nut on the struts or tie rod ends and the setting got changed as you drove it home.
Just don't see how the car seating on jackstands could change the alignment settings
 
Here is my results after an alignment. Do you guys think i need those spc rear toe/camber bolts? Im on cut H&R's.

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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337
 

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Definitely could benefit from them with that -3 degrees in the rear. Wonder what's up with the left front camber as well?
 
Are they cut in the rear? That's a lot of rear camber unless you're slammed. That's about where mine is without a kit and my tires will rub the wheel wells on big hits. The front issue could be the stabilizer end links. It ties both sides together so if it's off, it will impact camber. Mine was off by about 1 degree between left and right when a tire shop messed up the installation. I don't know what they did, but to fix it, I had to loosen both sides to balance it out. Or you have a bent suspension piece somewhere.
 
Yep, he's with cut springs. SPC 72265 camber bolt kit should bring the rear camber back to fairly close to specs.
 
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