Camber question

The H&R's settle over time so since its been 6 months I would defiantly have your alignment re checked in the spring.
 
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spacers dont change alignment, ive had my car aligned with spacers so many times and never had issue with a tech. They dont even take your wheels off, so your good!
 
angryfx said:
I have hnr spring put in about 6 month ago do you usually need cmber kits for hnrs also?
Never had an alignment after the drop
Thinking of getting it after tire change in spring

---------- Post added at 02:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:57 PM ----------

Would fire stone give hassle for dropped and 25mm spacers?
I remember last time i had to take spacers off to get an alignment
Click to expand...

See my post just above yours. I have kido coilovers dropped over an inch from stock, and spacers. Firestone had no issues with the alignment.
 
Just saw this, thanks for the answer. This will come in handy for spring plans. I want to go with wider wheels in the rear, and the only way that will happen is if I can get a little more negative camber.

turbocad6 said:
the bolts simply increase the adjustment range. it will allow more adjustment both ways really.

before the adjustment range was

[---.---]

and after it would be

[----.----]
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I know the OP was over a year ago -- but I'm in a similar situation with my alignment. Right rear camber is off -- but doesn't the stock setup have a cam bolt that allows for some camber adjustment?

How many degrees does stock allow? What about the SPC 72265?

I have H&R lowering springs (with KYB's, I believe).

Also, does anyone know if the MOOG replacements are just stock replacements, or do they allow for more camber adjustment than stock?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Maste...s&fits=Model:FX35&hash=item565c388ad3&vxp=mtr (rear I believe)

(front is K90474)

---------- Post added at 01:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:48 PM ----------

"If mine is not within specs should I have them install front camber adjustment kit for 230.00 parts and labor?"

That seems really steep to me. Again, I know this was a year ago -- but my shop quoted me $75 to install one cam on the front right, and I still think that's ridiculous.
 
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How far off is the right rear? The stock does allow for some adjustment in the rear, it's the front that doesn't really have much adjustment. If you're not lowered they should be able to get back into spec. If you're not lowered and stock adjustment isn't enough, something is damaged.
 
The problem they had in the rear, according to them, is that the bolts are rusted up/stuck/seized and they couldn't mess with it. I'll give the numbers when I get home. The car is lowered, as noted in the previous post (though edited, possibly after you saw it).

On the front right, it wasn't off by much -- with the lowered springs, putting in the cam bolt should resolve, no problem.

I'm more concerned about the rear -- I get some cheap stock replacements on hand if I have to break them off, so I won't have downtime if they do.

Would most people suggest a more adjustable cam bolt, or replacing with aftermarket camber arms?
 
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What's the reading on the front? I don't recall anyone needed camber bolt for the front. Camber bolts will get you back within specs in the rear for sure.
 
If lowered, the front will be barely out of spec. I know when I had H&R's, I was barely out on camber. They adjusted as much as they could which wasn't much and I was like -.2 out of spec. It's been a few years, but I do recall they have an eccentric bolt that can be used on the front strut which gives a little more adjustment. I used some on my previous car to get camber back. But be careful, a lot of the shop monkeys have no idea what they're doing. I had to have a stabilizer link replaced because it was frozen on. The shop put the new one on and my camber ended up being a full degree off between left and right. They forced the part on and since it's attached to the bar, it impacts the other side. Took me forever to get them back close.
 
By 'camber bolts', you mean the originals or aftermarket (SBC?)

Here are my specs -- remember, the rear bolts they said they could not adjust because they were rusted solid. I don't know if they were already fully adjusted or not. Fronts are within spec, but fully adjusted, which is why he recommended getting the cam bolt for the front right to bring it closer to the mid-range.

camber.jpg
 

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If you're lowered, you might as well get aftermarket. Stock ones don't have a huge adjustment range in the rear. And since you have to replace anyways, the cost difference can't be much. For the front, if it's in range it's fine. Suspension doesn't care if it's a the end or middle of the adjustment range. It's not like bushings where there are additional stresses from being lower. If for some reason you go out of range over time and they can't bring it back, then revisit the front camber bolt issue. -2.2 isn't horrible, but that tire will wear quicker. I just got 12K from a set of tires before I had to flip them due to camber wear in the rear and that was at -3. Front has been at -2 forever and even at 20K mi., no excessive tire wear yet. Guess camber has more impact on rear which makes sense since those tires wear quicker anyways.
 
shadow191 said:
If you're lowered, you might as well get aftermarket. Stock ones don't have a huge adjustment range in the rear. And since you have to replace anyways, the cost difference can't be much. For the front, if it's in range it's fine. Suspension doesn't care if it's a the end or middle of the adjustment range. It's not like bushings where there are additional stresses from being lower. If for some reason you go out of range over time and they can't bring it back, then revisit the front camber bolt issue. -2.2 isn't horrible, but that tire will wear quicker. I just got 12K from a set of tires before I had to flip them due to camber wear in the rear and that was at -3. Front has been at -2 forever and even at 20K mi., no excessive tire wear yet. Guess camber has more impact on rear which makes sense since those tires wear quicker anyways.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input -- do you think there's 1 degree of adjustment possible on stock bolts? If so, maybe if I can just get thing loosened up they will be able to get it in spec.

I know people totally overblow camber/tire wear issues -- a little off on toe and you shred tires very quickly. But also having owned some older, sagging Z-cars, I've seen some insides get burned from some EXCESSIVE camber. My last set of rear tires on the FX35 (owner before me) had to be replaced when I registered the car because of inspection (said tread was too shallow). But they were nearly perfect wear, and nothing has changed that I know of. It was probably -2.2 before...unless the rear-ender did something, which the body shop said it did not.

---------- Post added at 11:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:27 PM ----------

I ordered SPC bolt sets for the rear camber and toe from Amazon. Will get this done soon. Fronts I'll just ignore since toe, caster, and camber are within spec.
 
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Took some time this morning, maybe a bit more than an hour, loosening up all the rear camber and toe bolts (stock). It looks like there was plenty of rear camber adjustment available (meaning they weren't fully adjusted to reduce negative camber). I think I can probably get away with new stock bolts -- but I already ordered the SPC's so I guess I'll just get it all done. I don't think I'll need them for toe at all since I was in spec, but those ones were the worst to loosen up and the eccentric washer 'nub' got stripped just trying to loosen these old rusted lock nuts. I can see why the shop didn't want to do the work -- but I should be able to go in and argue that they never adjusted my rear in the alignment and can now :P

In case anyone wants to replace all rear stock bolts, here is current pricing from INFINITIPARTSUSA.com. Buying online through my local dealer would've been $87.48 + 25 mile drive and waiting anyway since not all in stock. Their price is like double that at the counter, too.

Protector Cam
(55227-8J00A)
$6.34 x 4 = $25.36

Bolt
(55226-CG00A)
$7.44 x 2 = $14.88

Bolt,
(55226-CG01A)

$7.44 x 2 = $14.88

Radius Rod Nut
(55269-AG00E)

$1.31 x 4 = $5.24
Shipping to me $11.45 Ground
 
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Got all the bolts in yesterday evening -- all replaced now. It was a little tricky getting bolts back in the the suspension under no load. Lots of fun with jacks, and even used a ratcheting tie down :)

Going to get the rear aligned tomorrow. Glad that's done -- and now onto a rusted out rear crossmember. Ugh!
 
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