BOSE Wiring Diagram

toy4x

Premium Member
Premium
Car
04 FX35
Name
Andrew
Here is the BOSE wiring diagram for the FX35/FX45. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to wire in aftermarket amps, subs, eq's, etc....

Main Amplifier:
This is for the wiring found at the main and subwoofer amplifier:

Input

Front Left: Positive- White
Negative- Black

Front Right: Positive- Green (2003)
Negative- Yellow
Positive- Light Green (2004+)
Negative- Purple

Rear Left: Positive- Black/Red
Negative- Brown

Rear Right: Positive- Blue
Negative- Black/White


Output

Left Dash and Left Front Door: Positive- Blue
Negative- Black/White

Center: Positive- Red/Blue
Negative- Black

Right Dash and Right Front Door: Positive- Brown
Negative- Black/Red

Left Rear Door: Positive- Light Green
Negative- Black/Yellow

Right Rear Door: Positive- Orange
Negative- Black/Pink

Left and Right Rear Pillar: Positive- Green
Negative- Green/White

Subwoofer signal: Positive- White
Negative- Black


Amplifier Ground- Black
Amplifier Turn-on- Pink
Amplifier Constant Power- Red

Subwoofer Amplifier:

Subwoofer signal: Positive- White
Negative- Black
Amplifier Ground- Black
Amplifier Turn-on- Pink
Amplifier Constant Power- Gray (2003)
Green/Red (2004+)


Speakers:
This is for the wiring found at the speaker, not at the amp or head unit

Left Dash: Positive- Blue
Negative- Black/White

Center: Positive- Red/Blue
Negative- Black

Right Dash: Positive- Green/Black (2003)
Negative- Black/Red
Positive- Green/White (2004+)
Negative- Green/Red

Left Front Door: Positive- Blue
Negative- Black/White

Right Front Door: Positive- Brown
Negative- Black/Red

Left Rear Door: Positive- Light Green
Negative- Black/Yellow

Right Rear Door: Positive- Light Green
Negative- Black/Yellow

Left Rear Pillar: Positive- Green
Negative- Green/White

Right Rear Pillar: Positive- Green
Negative- Green/White
 
It would be great if this sticky could be expanded to include speaker dimensions, mounting depths, locations, and impedance(s, if different).
 
They say there's 11 speaker system, I know the 3 on the dash the two on the front doors, the two on the back doors, the two on the pillars and the sub. Does anyone know where the 11th speaker is?
 
Dash - 3
Front Door - 2
Rear Door - 2
Rear Pillar -2
Subwoofer- 2 (there are 2 4" woofers in the plastic Bose box)

11 speakers total.
 
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Felt like doing a diagram to help other members. Colors are correct for the 1st Gen.

Subwoofer install:

AmpDiagram.jpg

Epicenter Installed on stock BOSE subwoofer:

EpicenterDiagram.jpg

BOSE Delete

BoseDelete-2.jpg
 

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Thanks, this was a great help. Just got done adding in my Hertz high energy 10", I used an LOC off the factory sub signal and left the Bose sub unplugged. Sounds great! I need a better front stage to match my sub now :)
 
Hi, looking to add a sub to the stock system, but I have a question on the first subwoofer install diagram...you tapped into the stock system after the stock amplifier with RCA, but wouldn't you need to do this before hand to get the signal at line level and not amplified? Wouldn't you need a line converter? Thanks in advance.
 
Visceral,

Good question, and a LLC is not needed. The first stock BOSE amp takes the 4 inputs (really just 2, one pos and neg for each side) from the stock HU and passes them through the amp to the second BOSE sub amp. The line we are tapping is not amplified and is a passed through line level input. The Amplification of that line takes place inside the subwoofer "enclosure" where the second amp is located.

Bose passed through the signal into the new white and black wires going into the sub amp from the original amp.

AmpDiagram.jpg
 

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I tapped the signal wires (using one side of the RCA pair) that go into the stock Bose sub amp (as in diagram # 1) but my output from my aftermarket sub/amp set up is very low. I even boosted the amp gain and the bass level output and my music output from my aftermarket sub is barely louder than the stock Bose sub.

I'm using a JL 500/1 & a 12w6 sub.

I am not sure why my sub output is so low.....I have proper voltage into the amp (checked with a multimeter) and I have a turn on trigger with a 12+ Volt input into the amp.
 
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