BC Racing Coilovers Test Fitted and Worked + Camber discussion.

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atl_red_G35

Member
So this past weekend, I've worked with BC Racing Crew to install the BC BR Coilovers system for the 09+FX35 and pretty much all was finalized.

I'm now running at 2" drop all around.

Fronts can drop another 2"
Rears can go another inch

I'll let the BC Crew work out the details, look forward for published info later on.

In the mean while, I'll leave you with a sneak pic un-official-edirty-pic of the car at max low.

429974_3130779742475_1054171995_3134168_417831049_n.jpg


---------- Post added at 01:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:37 PM ----------

Camber Discussion:

I've also worked with SPC to see if any of their current Nissan/Infiniti Lineup would work.

However, it's been unsuccessful so far.

Front A-Arm is different.
Rear Camber Arm is totally a new design where they use I-Bolt vs the Fork style on other Nissan/Infiniti Vehicle.

All feedbacks and measurements was sent to SPC. Hopefully we'll hear something from them.

HOWEVER, at 2" drop all around with OEM alignment, I'm running at:

-1.9 Degrees camber int he front
Toe was corrected fine

-3 Degrees Camber in the rear
Toe was set in spec

My proposal for the make-shift rear adjustment is:

Get 2 of the Toe Kits.
Elongate the Toe bolt and Camber Bolt.

That will allow you to dial in a lil more adjustment. I'll try that next.

More pics to come later when the car is washed up. I'm still awaiting new set of wheels soon :)
 
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very nice, with all that negative camber your car should handle even better now
 
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A lot of people are interested in the camber fix.. Please keep us updated on the R&D.. Thanks for working with these companies to better the 2nd Gen.

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Galaxy S2 on
 
I'm working with SPC as we're speak about the alignment stuffs. So I'll keep you guys posted with more info.

Next: BBK & wheels. But let's not get Off Topic.

Anyhow, it rides pretty good, at max soft, it handles quite well and almost stock like. :)

I'll get more pics once she's all cleaned up.
 
oh my those BCs look amazing...i want...

and hopefully the cambers can be fixed with an actual kit from SPC, that would be a game changer for 2nd gens to get lowered
 
Wow the 2nd gen looks wicked on max low. Can't wait to see all the aggressive fitments people have in store for the near future...
 
that is what we really need, a company like SPC to make an upper control arm and then one or 2 adjustable arms in the rear, probably will need 2. the rear would be easier to try to do a self mod by slotting the subframe but the front theres really nothing short of a custom control arm to fix that.

1.9 doesn't sound like a lot in the front but it is a lot, the second gen is not the same as first gen.

first gen uses a mcpherson strut in the front, on a mcpherson strut the front camber does not change all that much as the suspension compresses. this is why you don't see any first gens wind up with much alignment issues in the front even when lowered a lot. cars do need a bit of negative camber at the outer wheels in a turn to counteract the side forces and body roll. the negative camber is built into the alignmet specs on a first gen, an alignment reading of -1 or even -1.5 deg is fine and even within spec, because it will not increase much as the body rolls and the outer suspension compresses as it would in a hard corner. I set my front alignment ~-1.9 deg negative on purpose on my first gen, this is only ~-.5 deg beyond factory spec, but you can not do the same on a second gen

second gen is a different animal. second gen uses upper and lower control arm in the front, not mcpherson strut design. alignment specs on a second gen are going to call for much less initial negative camber in it's spec because as the vehicle goes through a hard corner and the outer suspension compresses it will add negative camber by design, so static alignment specs are closer to 0 deg actual at rest. you can see that by lowering 2" the camber increased to almost -2 degrees. this is called a camber curve, which is the relationship of: suspension compression VS additional camber added. what this means is, if the initial static camber is now at 1.9, by the time you push this thing through a turn it will increase even more, the outside wheel may wind up reaching -3.5 deg negative or more, good for a track car, horrible for a street car. add to this the fact that the camber curve is not linear, in other words the amount of camber it adds per increment increases as it compresses more, and you can see that a static intial camber reading of -1.9 is way too much to be usable.

I don't want to post up a whole bunch of detailed technical explanations of camber curves and suspension geometry in general because this is probably more than anyone here really cares to know or wants to hear but would be happy to answer any questions anyone has on this subject as much as I can. bottom line is the right replacement arms will allow the static camber specs to come back into range and the altered camber curve resulting from the drop shouldn't be too much of a problem. the camber curves will be skewed a bit when lowered because the static height is no longer centered to the ride height the suspension geometry is originally calibrated for, but this usually is not much of an issue by itself and this happens to most lowered cars. the ONLY way to really maintain the factory camber curves and still lower a vehicle is with dropped spindles but this is rarely done because in many cases it's just not possible, and where it is possible it usually isn't cost effective, especially on a vehicle with aluminum spindles...
 
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Nice, you can see the promise in that picture. IMO - Looks like the wheels just need to fill up the wells a bit better.
 
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Very nice. On a side note, how long do those story length replies take to type out turbo? ;)
 
probably not practical because of axle pass through, plus this can only drop as much as the clearance between lower control arm to rim allows... would be sick if it was practical though :)
 
As far as camber correction goes for the front, we're trying to look at something to see if it'd work.

As for the rear, the best bet is to buy 2 of the Toe Bolt Kits and used them. That will give some toe and Camber adjustment.

However, the most ideal way for the rear is to make an LCA (Lower Control Arm) + Camber Adjustment Hybrid. It's not that hard to CNC if someone has the tool to do it.
 
BTW - I like the way you are working backwards on this and looking for the fix. If you can make it happen you will have a lot of happy second genners in line for parts or at least the description of exactly what to do......
 
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