bc racing 09+ coilovers for the FX's in the making!

HoLLyWooD007 said:
Hard to chew through my tires when I never really have my car. In the past 12 months, she's been gone a total of 6.... Iv blown a tire, but have yet to shred them down. I'll check them out once I get it back to see how things stand now. Iv got something going with Megan racing for some potential coil overs as well for all of us, but won't know anything until I get my car back & get it over to them. Megans based out here in SoCal, so I'm hoping working with them will be easier. I also thought that about Eibach, & we all know how that turned out.....SMH!

It would really be BS if we all waited this long to ride lower just to have the side effect be that we blow through tires every 10,000miles! I only average about 10k with tires without having that issue, so I REALLY hope we find a solution. Fingers crossed on BC (I'm down for a group buy if the terms are right) or Megan racng coming through for all us 2nd Gens!
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Tony, let us know how your tire wear is when you check them . When you get all that extra power, you are going to have enough problem putting the power to the road.
 
Maybe you guys could get JB to take his FX over to John and have him look at what kinda options might work?
 
I've seen & worked on this suspension before, had an fx50 with suspension damage & had to replace a few parts... there is no adjustments in this suspension front besides just toe... I had a 1* discrepancy & had to replace a knuckle & lower control arm just to get it back into spec...

from looking at it I can see that the easiest thing will be to build a new adjustable upper arm... if I had one of these fx's I could build a custom upper arm for it but I have way to many projects going on with my own fx that I can't even get done, so me doing this is out of the question...

if you guys REALLY want this, I'd say you are going to have to pool together & get a fabricator to custom build this for you... the investment will be in buying original control arm(s) to fabricate a jig, then produce custom adjustable arms... it's not very difficult to do, but requires a fairly significant initial investment... split between a group should be very doable but don't expect it to be dirt cheap... how bad you want it? a fabricator is going to want to see a certain # of orders for it to be worth tooling up for this & building a jig but were talking something that really isn't so difficult to build either really... the first one would cost a lot but then each copy after not so much, the more pieces you do the less each one actually averages out to cost...

it also might not be impossible to modify an already available adjustable aftermarket existing upper arm from a G maybe too, but this too would require the investment of buying it & seeing... someone is going to have to have a hand in developing this one way or the other... would be great if a company did it on there own but that also may never happen...
 
turbocad6 said:
if you guys REALLY want this, I'd say you are going to have to pool together & get a fabricator to custom build this for you... the investment will be in buying original control arm(s) to fabricate a jig, then produce custom adjustable arms... it's not very difficult to do, but requires a fairly significant initial investment... split between a group should be very doable but don't expect it to be dirt cheap... how bad you want it? a fabricator is going to want to see a certain # of orders for it to be worth tooling up for this & building a jig but were talking something that really isn't so difficult to build either really... the first one would cost a lot but then each copy after not so much, the more pieces you do the less each one actually averages out to cost...

it also might not be impossible to modify an already available adjustable aftermarket existing upper arm from a G maybe too, but this too would require the investment of buying it & seeing... someone is going to have to have a hand in developing this one way or the other... would be great if a company did it on there own but that also may never happen...
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Thanks for the info. I guess everyone has a different figure in mind as to how much they are willing to spend on such adjustable upper arms. It probably depends on how flexible/adjustble these arms are (+1 degree probably isn't enough to pull the camber back within spec I suppose?). Some people are probably willing to spend $300~400 per axle, while others think it's not even worth that much even with the negative camber tire wear factored in.
 
depending on how much you lower +1 degree will most likely not put the camber back in spec especially if you lower twice as much as the eibachs. If we lower anymore we might have to consider trimming our side molding too because cambering it back out might rub our tires (unless you run 24s like tony then you can get away with some rubbing with a stretched tire)

I'm willing to spend what it typically costs for a camber fabrication because it'll definitely be worth it in the long run especially when you chew through tires. Just putting it out there i'd be willing to spend $500-600 for front and rear camber adjustment
 
Btw, it's great that we have a disussion about camber issue. But can we separate this into a new thread because it's not directly related to BC making a coilover system.

Just my 2 cents. ;)

Also, let me say this from personal experience.

I'm running negative cammbers on my Z (-3F, -3.5R) and I was able to last 20K miles out of my tires. I keep my toes at 0, and rotate between left and right at 10K miles (by dismount and remount.)

So to me, it's not that bad as long as you know what you're doing ;)
 
im on BC coilovers for my M37... i think only 2 2011-2012 M37's are running the BC Racing coilvers in the US.... no camber kit... just gotta deal with getting new tires.
 
With the miles I put up, a camber kit is a must... Really can't justify getting new tires every year or so.. At least I can't justify it to the wife :D

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Galaxy S2 on
 
don't you have non directional tires? either way you can rotate every 3,000 miles and you'll be fine.

I can't see you slamming it anyways, only a few inches to get rid of that gap. Didn't read the whole thread, but I don't think you'd be that much out of OEM specs unless you go Aero style slammed.
 
Chedman13 said:
don't you have non directional tires? either way you can rotate every 3,000 miles and you'll be fine.

I can't see you slamming it anyways, only a few inches to get rid of that gap. Didn't read the whole thread, but I don't think you'd be that much out of OEM specs unless you go Aero style slammed.
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:top: That was my plan if the Kido coilovers going to give me a significant negative camber.
:smile (2): Slam is not my style, maybe another .5" lower than the H&R springs are now....it will be hard not to lower it some more since I have the feature is there with coilovers.
 
Ha, but since you are Handy...

http://www.spcalignment.net/instructions/72265-INS_WEB.pdf

What Jumbo did was slot the subframe to get camber in spec on the rears. Enlarged (make oval/oblong) the existing non threaded hole to allow the OEM camber bolts enough room to get into specification.

InfinitiYear (From-To)Drive TypeAlignmentRear CamberRear Camber ToolRear ToeRear Toe ToolThrustFront CasterFront Caster ToolFront CamberFront Camber Tool

[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]FX35/FX45[/TD]
[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]2003 - 2008[/TD]
[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]FWD/AWD[/TD]
[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]4Wheel[/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"]OEMA[/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"][/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"]OEMA[/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"][/TD]

[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"]N/A[/TD]
[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"][/TD]
[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"] 81260 [/TD]
[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"][/TD]

[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]FX35/FX45[/TD]
[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]2003 - 2008[/TD]
[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]FWD/AWD[/TD]
[TD="class: d1, bgcolor: #AFC5E9"]4Wheel[/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"] 72265 [/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"] 85130 [/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"] 72265 [/TD]
[TD="class: d2, bgcolor: #BDE9AF"] 85130 [/TD]

[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"][/TD]
[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"][/TD]
[TD="class: d3, bgcolor: #E4C97F"][/TD]

http://spcalignment.com/component/s...5/FX45&year=2003+-+2008&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

http://spcalignment.com/component/s...5/FX45&year=2003+-+2008&from=USAFrom&to=USATo

If you are a degree off in the rear, that's actually not so bad and pretty good for handling (more contact patch during cornering, less contact patch in straight line). It won't eat up your tires either from what Kieran says.


la_fx35 said:
:top: That was my plan if the Kido coilovers going to give me a significant negative camber.
:smile (2): Slam is not my style, maybe another .5" lower than the H&R springs are now....it will be hard not to lower it some more since I have the feature is there with coilovers.
Click to expand...
 
Chedman13 said:
don't you have non directional tires? either way you can rotate every 3,000 miles and you'll be fine.

I can't see you slamming it anyways, only a few inches to get rid of that gap. Didn't read the whole thread, but I don't think you'd be that much out of OEM specs unless you go Aero style slammed.
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ST 2s are directional so I would have to re-mount and re-balance every few months.. I would like to drop it around 3; the camber and toe on the springs looked horrible with the 1.2 drop, I can only imagine what a 3 would do.



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Galaxy S2 on
 
PMG 705 said:
ST 2s are directional so I would have to re-mount and re-balance every few months.. I would like to drop it around 3; the camber and toe on the springs looked horrible with the 1.2 drop, I can only imagine what a 3 would do.

Galaxy S2 on
Click to expand...

Thats right, the camber was out too much on my 2nd Gen with the Eibachs. I put the OEM springs back on.
 
Hey guys, I'm new here but is there any word on a camber kit available yet?
 
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