Bass Knob for the M's

What's good guys? I think I'll just dive straight into it. As the title says, I utilized a space for the bass knob to go. I don't care much for drilling into my car so I decided to use some "available space".

My bass knob (remote level control rather, it controls the gain not the "bass boost") is for my JL HD 750.1 amplifier. I got tired of having to constantly adjust the bass through the factory radio so I ordered this knob:
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The process isn't too difficult but it takes a bit of patience. I'll try to break it down as well as I can. By now you should already know how to remove the center console stuff, i.e. cup holder, heated seat bracket, gear shift etc., so I'm just going to go forward from removing the gear shift section. Make certain you remove the 2 plugs (1 for the cig lighter/light, the other for the gear shift light.)

I didn't think to take pictures of this process as I was flying by the seat of my pants, but once you have the console piece completely removed, you have to unscrew the pos+ and neg- wires of the bottom of the cig lighter and tape them off because you will no longer have need for them. There is a 3rd screw in the center of the bottom of the cig lighter (housing), remove it and all the internals will come out along with the bottom piece that the pos+ and neg- wires WERE connected to. Once that's done, push the cig lighter housing up through the console until free.

You should be left with this:
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Now that you have the lighter housing removed, cut it down to about half its size. (I used and sanding wheel from my job to make certain it was level and a dremel to smooth things out.) The tricky part in this step is to get the cigarette lighter ITSELF cut down. I had to basically rip everything out of the bottom of it (Take your time on this one too, you don't want to bent things too far out of shape) until i was left with an opening, then I cut/sanded it down to just before it met the piece inside that has the spring attached (a little less than 1/8" or .125" before the spring piece.)

Here's what they look like. Now again I didn't think to take too many pictures because I was making it up as I went:
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I placed the housing back into its original place and hot glued a small wrench to the to the bottom of it (i couldn't for the life of me find any washers...) I removed the black knob from the bass knob then put the bass knob (RLC) assembly in the desired place as seen here:
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You can see the hexagonal shape of the wrench in the bottom of the housing:wink:.

Once I knew that this was the desired position for the bass knob, I used a "minuscule" amount of hot glue to hold it all in place. (I used hot glue because it removes easily from plastic and does next to no damage to the surfaces:
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Next is yet another set of pictures I didn't take but I can describe it to you. The black plastic knob that I removed from the the RLC was next put/glued into the bottom of the cigarette lighter. So basically when you look at the cigarette lighter, just imagine a black knob sticking out from the bottom. Once I glued it in place, I simply (and lightly) pushed it back down into the original position and am now able to adjust my bass using my "cigarette lighter":smug:

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Don't hesitate to ask questions, and this was specifically using the JL HD RLC, but I'm certain it can be done with others as well.

Robert
 
Thanks guys=) Hey would you or anyone you know be interested in a custome 12" sub box and jl w3 12" sub specifically designed for the 06-07 m35/45? I'm gettin a new set up and custom box for my car and do t have any need for it anymore.
 
Done and done. Man you guys should here the system now=] For the time being I have a JL w7 back there and I have been tuning my minds and highs and even with the sub at full tilt this it sounds so clear. On top of that, having the whole car dynamatted makes a major difference!!! When people ride with me they don't know why the bass "Seemingly" comes on/goes up and down. They think everything is factory until they watch me turn the cigarette lighter lol
 
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