- Location
- Portland, OR
Soooooo, I decided to install my little UR alternator pulley after all, mostly because I already have it, I don't like selling things, and I like tinkering with the FX. :tongue (2): I tried a couple methods of removing the alt pulley nut but it persevered so I reluctantly had to remove the alternator in order to use my impact wrech on the stubborn little nut. Hence, this DIY. Enjoy and be safe.
TOOLS REQUIRED
Phillips screwdriver / 10mm socket
12mm socket
12mm box wrench
14mm socket
24mm socket
socket wrench (3/8" drive min)
Oil filter wrench
Impact wrench (1/2" drive min)
TORQUE SPECS
Belt Tensioner Pulley lock nut ----------26 ft/lbs
Belt Tensioner Pulley mounting bolts --21 ft/lbs
Alternator Stay bolt --------------------21 ft/lbs
Dynamic Damper bolt ------------------16 ft/lbs
Alternator Mounting bolt --------------48 ft/lbs
B-Terminal nut -------------------------7 ft/lbs
Alternator Pulley nut -------------------54 ft/lbs
Step 1:
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY FOR THE DURATION OF THIS JOB. You will be dealing directly with an otherwise high voltage line that will shock the hell out of you if you skip this step.
Step 2:
Using screwdriver or 10mm socket, remove splash pan. I did this job from the bottom with the front tires up on ramps. A real pro could possibly do it from the top...
Step 3a:
Relieve alternator belt tension by loosening the belt tensioner pulley lock nut (in the center of the pulley) and then loosening the tensioning rod (directly below the tensioner pulley).
Step 3b:
Remove alternator belt
Step 4:
Remove alternator belt tensioner. I'm showing two pictures below due to the awkward angle involved in taking the pics. The first pic shows the bolt holes in the tensioner plate and the second shows the tensioner removed to illustrate the locations of the three mounting bolts on the block.
Tensioner:
Three mounting bolts partially threaded back into their homes (tensioner removed):
Step 5:
Remove alternator stay. You may think, as I did, that you can get the alt out without removing the whole bracket... Well, it's hard to explain, but you can't. Just take it off.
Step 6:
Remove dynamic damper. You'll need the wiggle room in a minute...
Step 7:
Remove alternator mounting bolt. It's the super long one in the pic below. Don't worry, the alt is wedged onto the two flanges through which this last bolt passes, so it won't fall out. It likely won't even move. (I took the pics in reverse which is why you see the pulley already installed in the pics...)
Bolt removed, dual flanges shown for clarity:
Step 8a:
Disconnect the three wire looms from the alternator mounting bracket. Two of them are snap in type connectors and the last is a weird one. The best way I found to remove the first two is to pinch the protruding end with needle nose pliers and push the retaining clip back through the bracket. The third is different and very self explanatory. I took the pic after the alt is removed but you'll obviously need to remove it prior.
First two snap in retainers on the gold colored alt bracket:
Third harness clip:
Step 8b:
Disengage alternator from the two flanges that are still holding it onto the block. This is rather difficult and requires lots of wiggling due to the fact that it's sort of wedged onto the flanges. You can carefully pry it with a screwdriver if you want. Fwiw, I was able to remove it without prying... After it's loose, rotate the whole thing around so that you can see the two wires that connect directly to the alternator. You can rest it on the oil filter while you grab your 12mm wrench for the next step.
Step 8c:
Remove plastic clip in harness and B-Terminal nut with your fingers and a 12mm box wrench respectively. The former is removed in the pic below but you can see the rectangular protrusion where it used to be just below and to the right of the power cable. The latter isn't very tight and it's pretty hard to get a socket wrench in there...
Step 9:
Remove alternator. If you are simply replacing it then this is the point at which you would just install the new one using the above steps in reverse. If you are installing a lightweight pulley, proceed...
Step 10:
Set the alternator on it's back on your bench (or the box holding your sweet new compound miter saw, whatever works...:tonguey
and secure the pulley with your oil filter wrench. This is not the only way, but it works and doesn't damage the pulley veins. Once secured, remove the alt pulley nut with your impact wrench and 24mm socket (thx Handrew!).
Step 11:
Apply loc-tite and reinstall new pulley. Use oil filter wrench and impact wrench again in reverse.
aaaaaaand you're halfway done. Reinstall alternator starting from step 8 and proceeding back through to step 1.
Pulley comparison. I did weigh them but my scale is only accurate to 1/10th of a pound, so it didn't show a difference. The UR pulley though is very noticeably lighter when you hold one in each hand. The difference as a percentage is IMO much greater than the difference between the oem and UR idler pulleys.
el fin.
TOOLS REQUIRED
Phillips screwdriver / 10mm socket
12mm socket
12mm box wrench
14mm socket
24mm socket
socket wrench (3/8" drive min)
Oil filter wrench
Impact wrench (1/2" drive min)
TORQUE SPECS
Belt Tensioner Pulley lock nut ----------26 ft/lbs
Belt Tensioner Pulley mounting bolts --21 ft/lbs
Alternator Stay bolt --------------------21 ft/lbs
Dynamic Damper bolt ------------------16 ft/lbs
Alternator Mounting bolt --------------48 ft/lbs
B-Terminal nut -------------------------7 ft/lbs
Alternator Pulley nut -------------------54 ft/lbs
Step 1:
DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OF THE BATTERY FOR THE DURATION OF THIS JOB. You will be dealing directly with an otherwise high voltage line that will shock the hell out of you if you skip this step.
Step 2:
Using screwdriver or 10mm socket, remove splash pan. I did this job from the bottom with the front tires up on ramps. A real pro could possibly do it from the top...
Step 3a:
Relieve alternator belt tension by loosening the belt tensioner pulley lock nut (in the center of the pulley) and then loosening the tensioning rod (directly below the tensioner pulley).
Step 3b:
Remove alternator belt
Step 4:
Remove alternator belt tensioner. I'm showing two pictures below due to the awkward angle involved in taking the pics. The first pic shows the bolt holes in the tensioner plate and the second shows the tensioner removed to illustrate the locations of the three mounting bolts on the block.
Tensioner:
Three mounting bolts partially threaded back into their homes (tensioner removed):
Step 5:
Remove alternator stay. You may think, as I did, that you can get the alt out without removing the whole bracket... Well, it's hard to explain, but you can't. Just take it off.
Step 6:
Remove dynamic damper. You'll need the wiggle room in a minute...
Step 7:
Remove alternator mounting bolt. It's the super long one in the pic below. Don't worry, the alt is wedged onto the two flanges through which this last bolt passes, so it won't fall out. It likely won't even move. (I took the pics in reverse which is why you see the pulley already installed in the pics...)
Bolt removed, dual flanges shown for clarity:
Step 8a:
Disconnect the three wire looms from the alternator mounting bracket. Two of them are snap in type connectors and the last is a weird one. The best way I found to remove the first two is to pinch the protruding end with needle nose pliers and push the retaining clip back through the bracket. The third is different and very self explanatory. I took the pic after the alt is removed but you'll obviously need to remove it prior.
First two snap in retainers on the gold colored alt bracket:
Third harness clip:
Step 8b:
Disengage alternator from the two flanges that are still holding it onto the block. This is rather difficult and requires lots of wiggling due to the fact that it's sort of wedged onto the flanges. You can carefully pry it with a screwdriver if you want. Fwiw, I was able to remove it without prying... After it's loose, rotate the whole thing around so that you can see the two wires that connect directly to the alternator. You can rest it on the oil filter while you grab your 12mm wrench for the next step.
Step 8c:
Remove plastic clip in harness and B-Terminal nut with your fingers and a 12mm box wrench respectively. The former is removed in the pic below but you can see the rectangular protrusion where it used to be just below and to the right of the power cable. The latter isn't very tight and it's pretty hard to get a socket wrench in there...
Step 9:
Remove alternator. If you are simply replacing it then this is the point at which you would just install the new one using the above steps in reverse. If you are installing a lightweight pulley, proceed...
Step 10:
Set the alternator on it's back on your bench (or the box holding your sweet new compound miter saw, whatever works...:tonguey
and secure the pulley with your oil filter wrench. This is not the only way, but it works and doesn't damage the pulley veins. Once secured, remove the alt pulley nut with your impact wrench and 24mm socket (thx Handrew!).Step 11:
Apply loc-tite and reinstall new pulley. Use oil filter wrench and impact wrench again in reverse.
aaaaaaand you're halfway done. Reinstall alternator starting from step 8 and proceeding back through to step 1.
Pulley comparison. I did weigh them but my scale is only accurate to 1/10th of a pound, so it didn't show a difference. The UR pulley though is very noticeably lighter when you hold one in each hand. The difference as a percentage is IMO much greater than the difference between the oem and UR idler pulleys.
el fin.
Last edited:
