Ac forged wheels????

[elg0rd0yadigg]

Ive been doing some research on this company looks like mostly higher end cars, but they've been around for about 2-3yrs and it looks like the factory their wheels are manufactured is the same one as for vip modular iforged and forgestar, a few others as well cant remember. Its a 3pc custom wheel, they told me 3-4 weeks to make and quoted me 3700 including tires, which is much cheaper than any other forged multi pc wheel ive seen, hence the reason i want to cover all my bases.....Anyway im looking to find out if anyone here has heard/delt with them?

This is the specifically model im interested in, spec im thinnking is 22x10 +30 all around on a 265/40/22 tire.....also if you guys could pitch on the rim/tire combo that b great!....

O last piece of info i will be dropped on bc coilovers


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[shadow191]

Should be fine, almost all forged wheels are made in relatively few factories. Everyone just gets to private label them. I could go start a forged wheel company tomorrow and just buy from the same factories. AC Forged just seems to spend less on marketing and fancy photoshoots relative to VIP Modular or Iforged. The only worry I would ever have is that it's a smaller company - AC stands for Audio City - so if Audio City ever goes under and you have an issue with the wheel, you're on your own. They seem to do all their marketing and selling on eBay and Craigslist which is a little weird to me, but the company seems fine.

 

[la_fx35]

The wheel looks good. I like them. I think 265 is a bit narrow for 10 inch wheel. Price seems good with tires. You need to find out what kind of tires it comes with. Yokohama and Hankook are liked by many member on here. Stay away from Nitto 420S for sure. They're are LOUD.

When you decided to drop it with BC, be sure to roll the rear fender to avoid shedding on the tire.

Since the wheel has a such open design, I would suggest to use the straight valve stem so that it won't stick out the to front face of the wheel for a cleaner look. The valve stem will seat on the inner barrel and you reach in to air them, but a big hand may be a problem to reach through the design opening. I'm in mids of replacing my 24" iForged chrome barrels and I'm going with straight valve stem as well. Also you may want to look into water diverter like to prevent wheel shakes in heavy rain. I have them on my 24", but I don't like about them is that you have to install them when you install the TPMS sensor or valve stem as it has be tighten down with the sensor or valve stem body and I don't feel like paying that much for them that so I decided to make my own that will be mounted on the backside of a face bolt like one of the image on link.

https://www.infinitiscene.com/searc...HPO_wyAGQ44H4CQ&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1360&bih=722

 

[elg0rd0yadigg]

Should be fine, almost all forged wheels are made in relatively few factories. Everyone just gets to private label them. I could go start a forged wheel company tomorrow and just buy from the same factories. AC Forged just seems to spend less on marketing and fancy photoshoots relative to VIP Modular or Iforged. The only worry I would ever have is that it's a smaller company - AC stands for Audio City - so if Audio City ever goes under and you have an issue with the wheel, you're on your own. They seem to do all their marketing and selling on eBay and Craigslist which is a little weird to me, but the company seems fine.

Thanks for the awesome info, them being a smaller company was also my concern bc their warranty is great but if they close down im on my own lol



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---------- Post added at 10:13 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:10 AM ----------

The wheel looks good. I like them. I think 265 is a bit narrow for 10 inch wheel. Price seems good with tires. You need to find out what kind of tires it comes with. Yokohama and Hankook are liked by many member on here. Stay away from Nitto 420S for sure. They're are LOUD.

When you decided to drop it with BC, be sure to roll the rear fender to avoid shedding on the tire.

Since the wheel has a such open design, I would suggest to use the straight valve stem so that it won't stick out the to front face of the wheel for a cleaner look. The valve stem will seat on the inner barrel and you reach in to air them, but a big hand may be a problem to reach through the design opening. I'm in mids of replacing my 24" iForged chrome barrels and I'm going with straight valve stem as well. Also you may want to look into water diverter like to prevent wheel shakes in heavy rain. I have them on my 24", but I don't like about them is that you have to install them when you install the TPMS sensor or valve stem as it has be tighten down with the sensor or valve stem body and I don't feel like paying that much for them that so I decided to make my own that will be mounted on the backside of a face bolt like one of the image on link.

https://www.infinitiscene.com/searc...HPO_wyAGQ44H4CQ&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1360&bih=722

I thought hub centric rings will cover any "shakes" but ill look into that water system thanks for the heads up on the straight valve stem.....il probably be pullin the trigger this week since wait time is long lol....so whAt size tire would you recommend? I live in ny so cant go too low pro and also i dont want rubbing issues wen i drop on the coilovers....thanx for all the info this ia my first truck never dealt with rims so this big so i want to get it correct!


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[shadow191]

Sometimes 2 and 3 piece wheels collect water in the middle channel of the barrel. It seems to impact Iforged wheels more, at least more complaints because of the barrel design, there's a dip where water collects and when the wheel starts spinning, it throws the balance off. Hub rings are really only necessary for proper installation, almost every modern wheel is centered by the lug nuts. And then again, on a custom wheel, they should bore the hub to your specs anyways so no need for rings. Mostly hub rings are to make wheels more universal; but if you're paying for custom, they should be custom. ie, the TSW wheels on my FX have hub rings because they'll fit many other cars. The 3 piece Forged1 wheels on my 335 have a custom hub bore that will only fit BMW.

And if it's a 3 piece wheel, you have the option of having the valve stem behind the spokes as Andy said. It's much cleaner, but a PITA to check your pressure or air the tires up. That face design leaves very little room to get anything in there. So it may involve wheel removal to put air in if you get valve stems behind the face. I have that option on my Forged1 wheels and the face design is 10 spoke so much more open, but it's still hard to get anything onto the valve. If it's oriented by the caliper or anything like that, I have to turn the wheel.

For tires, 265/40 on a 10 works fine, a tiny, tiny bit stretched. If you want more meat on the tire, a 285/35 is close in rolling diameter and a bit wider. 285/40 is an option, but that starts raising up the car a bit and if you ever lower it, it may rub because it's so tall. A 10" +30 in front is going to rub if you get a 285 tire and lower it at all.

 

[elg0rd0yadigg]

Sometimes 2 and 3 piece wheels collect water in the middle channel of the barrel. It seems to impact Iforged wheels more, at least more complaints because of the barrel design, there's a dip where water collects and when the wheel starts spinning, it throws the balance off. Hub rings are really only necessary for proper installation, almost every modern wheel is centered by the lug nuts. And then again, on a custom wheel, they should bore the hub to your specs anyways so no need for rings. Mostly hub rings are to make wheels more universal; but if you're paying for custom, they should be custom. ie, the TSW wheels on my FX have hub rings because they'll fit many other cars. The 3 piece Forged1 wheels on my 335 have a custom hub bore that will only fit BMW.

And if it's a 3 piece wheel, you have the option of having the valve stem behind the spokes as Andy said. It's much cleaner, but a PITA to check your pressure or air the tires up. That face design leaves very little room to get anything in there. So it may involve wheel removal to put air in if you get valve stems behind the face. I have that option on my Forged1 wheels and the face design is 10 spoke so much more open, but it's still hard to get anything onto the valve. If it's oriented by the caliper or anything like that, I have to turn the wheel.

For tires, 265/40 on a 10 works fine, a tiny, tiny bit stretched. If you want more meat on the tire, a 285/35 is close in rolling diameter and a bit wider. 285/40 is an option, but that starts raising up the car a bit and if you ever lower it, it may rub because it's so tall. A 10" +30 in front is going to rub if you get a 285 tire and lower it at all.

You been awesome thx for all the great info Nd yes i got off the phone with audiocity and the hub will be made to my vehicle directly i pretty much have to decide on lip size and tires spec....i figured 265/40 isnt a bad stretch for a truck n figured i be ok on my acural tl i had a 235/40 on my 10" xxr wheel but it rode like a low pro tire cuz of the stretch so my goal with the 265/40 is to have a not so rough ride but also not rub when i drop which i will b doin all at once since the wheels take 4-6 weeks by then i shud have my mind made up on whAt suspension i should with


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