2011 fx35 Aftermarket Amp/Sub install questions

S

superwario

Member
Car
2011 FX35 AWD
Hey guys,

I wanted to install my old amp/sub combo into my brand spankin' new fx35 and just had a couple questions.

Through the search function, i found out the the wiring is as follows:

Thick white wire= constant 12 volt power
Thick black wire= ground
Grey wire= remote 12 volt switched
red wire= positive + speaker terminal
green wire= negative - speaker terminal

1. Is it possible to simply "splice" into the red green and speaker wires and grey remote wire instead of cutting it all the way through so that I can use both the aftermarket sub as well as the stock bose sub?

I'd like to be able to "quick-disconnect" the new sub/amp in case I have to use the cargo space.

2. When running the power wire, do you guys have a preferred route? Do I need to drill a hole through the engine bay firewall or is there a convenient spot to run it (a 4AWG wire)? Do I need to take out the seats to run the power wire all the back?

That's all of the questions that I have for now, thanks for all your help!
 
Hey guys,
so I twisted the tips of the rcas to the red positive wire and the outside of the rcas to the green wire, but now when I plug the rcas into the amp, the amp goes into protection mode.

When only the ground, power, and remote wire(the grey wire that would have gone to the stock sub) are connected, the amp is fine and the protection light is not on but has soon as the rca touches the rca port on the amp, the protection comes on.

Are the wire colors that i posted above wrong for the 2011 fx35?

Someone please help me!
 
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The problem is, you are pluging a high level output into a low level input, you need a converter to turn your high level inputs into low level RCA. Hope this helps.
 
You need to connect the speaker wires into High Level input on your amplifier
 
Thanks for the reply mike!

Are u sure that the wires aren't already low level? These are the wires that originally went strictly to the stock sub and nothing else.

Besides, would that be enough to trigger the protection on an amp?

This is the tutorial i followed:


http://www.InfinitiScene.com/forum/threads/2811-DIY-Install-New-Amp-amp-Sub

The wire colors are different since it is a tutorial for gen1 but the method should be the same right?

Thanks for the help!

---------- Post added 11-20-2011 at 12:05 AM ---------- Previous post was 11-19-2011 at 07:49 PM ----------

Here is a picture of the plug in case you guys wanted to see!

AGOi8.jpg
 

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I would say the method would be the same. Just make sure you have the correct speaker wire. I'm pretty sure the speaker is already low level (unless the 2nd gen are diff). Make sure your amp speaker in also set at low level and also check the bare ends of the RCA tips (+) wire not touching the bare sleeve (-) wire. You have a pic of how you connect the RCA bare wire to the car + & - speaker wire?
 
Hi again here is the wiring I used on my 2011 works perfect, and it is 100% high level out to your stock bose woofer, hope this help's

Anyone with a 2011 fx35 the wiring for the subwoofer is,

Thick white wire= constant 12 volt power
Thick black wire= ground
Grey wire= remote 12 volt switched
red wire= positive + speaker terminal
green wire= negative - speaker terminal
 
If the 2011 are the same as the 2010 which I suspect they are then the signal wires are low level. You should be able to feed them directly into the RCA input of your amplifier. Usually a amp does not go into protect from introducing a exceedingly high level input into it unless it actually causes the amplifier to overdrive the output stage. Does it still go into protect with no source material on or if the volume is at its absolutely lowest setting? If it does then I would suspect something else. As far as the power wire, there is a very convenient main harness grommet right behind the battery. If you remove the plastic clip on shroud around the battery and then the battery you will see it. Just unwrap the tape securing the rubber grommet to the harness, run your wire through and re tape the harness. Can't get any neater then that.
 
Hey guys!

Thank you for all of the helpful advice!

So I've tried this with another amp and it does the same thing so im sure it's not a defect in the amp. Basically, as soon as i touch the rca to the port, not even insertion, the protect comes on IMMEDIATELY.

I've checked the ground, and even ran a wire to the negative terminal of the battery to make extra sure and it's fine.

Regarding how i connected the rca's to the + and - red and green speaker wires, i bought these rca to bare speaker wire plugs from radio shack:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102959&CAWELAID=107595248

they come seperate, one rca plug each, so i had to buy two. I twisted the prong wires from both of them, the one's with the stripe on it, together and spliced it into the red (+) line from the car (as seen in the picture above). The remaining two wires i also twisted together and spliced it into the green (-) line from the car.

The remote wire works perfectly, when i turn the car on the amp turns on and when i turn the car off the amp turns off.

I tested each rca with a multimeter by touching the red probe to the inside prong part and the black probe to the outside shield part and got a reading of less than a volt when the car is on. I hope that's the correct way to use the multimeter, ive never used one before. I should be getting 6 volts from each rca wire, correct?

The only thing i can think of is this, and its something i didnt do because i was lazy. Those radioshack wires? they are 24 feet per rca wire and i did not trim them. I simply coiled them up and left them under the plastic spare tire trim of the car. I feel like the signal is being degraded heavily by running that length of wire. But why would the protection come on if the wire's are sending less than 6 volts (or whatever volts the rca's should be running)?

I will trim the rca wires and make super sure that they are making a solid connection and i will check back with you guys!

Unfortunately, the next free time i have to do this is saturday :-(

You guys are the best, and long live Infiniti Scene!
 
That's some strange characteristics. Just touching the RCA to the input should not throw the amp into protect. The only thing that would cause that might be sending dc voltage through the input. The low level signal wires will not give you meaningful metrics with a voltmeter since audio signals are analogue AC. If the gain on the amp is turned down all the way, does this still occur?
 
Are you still daisy chain your after market amp after the OEM amp? If so, disconnect the OEM amp so only use after market amp and sub to test.
 
la_fx35 said:
Are you still daisy chain your after market amp after the OEM amp? If so, disconnect the OEM amp so only use after market amp and sub to test.
Click to expand...

That is a good point, I have the factory bose sub removed(never had the after market and factory amps working at the same time). Try to disconect the factory sub and only use the amp and sub you are adding, see if that help's.
 
sayhitomike said:
That is a good point, I have the factory bose sub removed(never had the after market and factory amps working at the same time). Try to disconnect the factory sub and only use the amp and sub you are adding, see if that help's.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the replys!
The factory amp is contained within that circular tire well plastic box right? I haven't had that plugged in while attempting to use my aftermarket combo. The only reason I spliced into the actual lines instead of cutting them outright was because i wanted an easy way to disconnect and immediately use the factory setup, but i haven't tried running both at the same time.

I will definitely report back after I check the connections and trim the RCA's! That better fix the problem or else I will go batshit crazy hahaha
 
subssound weird

quick question i have a 2006 fx35, i have a 4000watt mono block amplifier/L7 kicker, i have everything hooked up but my sub losses sound and acts like its burping, i connected the rca converter box to the factory 6in subwoofers under the spare floor mat. this is how i have everything hooked up, i have a spare batter connected the ground to negative terminal on batter and power guage wire connected to positiver terminal on batter and also have remote wire attached to the positive terminal on battery but i put a switch on the remote wire to turn it of and on so the amp dont stay on. any suggestions on why my L7 sub sounds like its burping every time i try turn the facory radio up louder. please help.
 
hello i have a 2012 x35 and just had best buy install a amp and subs to the factory stereo but the subs don't hit when they should in the songs. when the bass is supposed to drop it don't none of the beats hit like they do in my mustangs aftermarket stereo amp and subs. Is there anyway to fix this?
 
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