2007 fx35 in need of your help experts

What i mentioned already, all cooling systems are working at maximum to keep everything cool.
If it sounds like a rotating noise it could be your compressor or clutch is worn and making noise.
On my car the idler pulley is a bit noisy under load of the ac compressor.

The easiest way to check for worn bearings or rough rotating idlers is to slack off the tensioner and remove the belt.
Then feel by hand if the idler pulley rotates nicely and feel if there is axial/radial play, same you can feel on the ac pulley.(you can not rotate the compressor by hand)
If there is a pulley bearing with excessive wear you will be able to feel it and might cause the noise. (like a scraping noise during rotation)
At least then you can decide what part to change first and see if it's gone, my bet is on a worn idler pulley, as the compressors are quite though build and will not suffer from collapsed bearings that fast as the idler....but you never know.
Guess in Dubai it's working the same amount of hours as the engine does.
 
This may sound obvious, but have you had your AC system checked? If refrigerant is below a certain level, the compressor won't engage to prevent damage, but sometimes refrigerant gets low, but the pressure is still enough to engage yet causes the compressor to work harder. Also, have you checked the lines to make sure there aren't any crimps or kinks on the high side? Something is causing your compressor to work very hard. It's either an issue with pulleys/bearings/compressor. Or it's something else in the AC system. If oil levels are too low, that can cause extra load on the compressor too.
 
I'm assuming the refrigerant level check is part of the dealer regular service but will confirm with the service advisor on the next visit and let them check the pressure. I couldn't see any obvious crimps in the AC lines and i can confirm the compressor kicking in and out normally with sufficient cooling. The issue had happened only once since the last service and i managed to get some photos of the rpm

Idling with AC off
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Idling with AC on & fan is off
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When the fan kicks in
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Looking at the pictures, i could not help but notice that you are reading rather low engine temperature, is that your "warmed up" engine temperature? Or you just turned on the engine and it is warming up?

Either ways something is wrong: in your first picture "AC off and fan off", your rpm looks normal right around 650, but not your temperature at that rpm, low temperature and normal rpm can not meet, because normally when the engine is warming up, the idle rpm is higher than that and usually starts at 1,500 rpm, when the engine temperature stabilizes right at the middle gauge, the rpm then comes down to around 650.

The above plus that additional symptom you added which is the fan causes rpm increase on its own in addition to what the AC does, makes me think you rather now have an electrical issue rather than mechanical one, something is giving the ECU the wrong info, based on which the ECU increases the RPM.




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---------- Post added 08-12-2013 at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was 08-11-2013 at 11:18 PM ----------

In fact, looking at the 3rd picture "AC on and fan on", your electrical fan should not even kick in at that low engine coolant temperature!.


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---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

I will have a look at the manual tomorrow, but from now till then can you run a fresh scan on your car and confirm that you do or do not have any trouble codes downloaded?


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The electrical fan kicks in for the AC system condensor, located next to the engine radiator.
So, the fan kicking in is not only for the engine coolant.
 
Ataher said:
Looking at the pictures, i could not help but notice that you are reading rather low engine temperature, is that your "warmed up" engine temperature? Or you just turned on the engine and it is warming up?

Either ways something is wrong: in your first picture "AC off and fan off", your rpm looks normal right around 650, but not your temperature at that rpm, low temperature and normal rpm can not meet, because normally when the engine is warming up, the idle rpm is higher than that and usually starts at 1,500 rpm, when the engine temperature stabilizes right at the middle gauge, the rpm then comes down to around 650.

The above plus that additional symptom you added which is the fan causes rpm increase on its own in addition to what the AC does, makes me think you rather now have an electrical issue rather than mechanical one, something is giving the ECU the wrong info, based on which the ECU increases the RPM.




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---------- Post added 08-12-2013 at 12:14 AM ---------- Previous post was 08-11-2013 at 11:18 PM ----------

In fact, looking at the 3rd picture "AC on and fan on", your electrical fan should not even kick in at that low engine coolant temperature!.


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---------- Post added at 12:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 AM ----------

I will have a look at the manual tomorrow, but from now till then can you run a fresh scan on your car and confirm that you do or do not have any trouble codes downloaded?


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Click to expand...

this is the normal running temperature here, the gulf specs vehicles are different than US and Canada when it comes to cooling due to the weather conditions we have here, as soon as the temp reaches the first line on the Gage it always remains there until the car is parked and cools down. you can also tell from the speedometer difference ;-)

you are right the rpm starts at 1500 with the cold start and then settles to ~650 when it starts to worm up in the morning

what is the fresh scan to find the trouble codes, i have no clue on this, appreciating your support
 
I knew that you live in UAE from your profile, but then my understanding is that US and GOLF specs are almost the same when it comes to operating temperature environment because it could get really hot in US too, but it would be good to know, I got friends who imported FX's from UAE and i will definitely check this out. Do you have a thermostat?

For the scan, you need to go to a dealer who has a good OBD-II scan tool or even better NISSAN consult II or III, they would then hook up and connect the scan tool to your car and download any possible trouble codes (aka fault codes, DTC, ..). The car computer monitors all sensors data and communications between devices and stores trouble codes when there is a problem, car manufacturers have assigned special code to every possible fault that can be detected by the car computer, so when downloaded "if any" they will help a lot in diagnosing the problem and eventually solving it, the scan is a cheap 10 minutes job.


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I thought reading the codes could be something i can do myself (like i used to do with my first car ever, shorting two pins in a connector and counting the SES lights and flashes) so was wondering if the fx have the same. And i'm sure the dealer did this on the last service and just recommended two things from the full checkup
Cleaning the TB on the next service
Replacing Rear strut rubber boot to protect the rear struts

Cars here have thermostats but the configuration of sensors are different as it will remain open after the first worm up and the radiator fan kicks in and out very frequently for very short time periods and the temp gage remains the same

Thanks ataher


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Not sure about shorting pins but this must be something prior to OBD-I, today almost all cars are OBD-ii compliant, and have special 16 pin data connector that a modern scan tool connects to and get a lot more info than even just codes, they can monitor car parameters in real time, get freeze frame data, actuate onboard devices, run tests and even write/upload data to the ECU.

If this was done in your last service then you must have been given a report no? That report would mention if there is any codes downloaded, however I asked you to run a fresh one just in case you got this issue after that last service appointment.


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---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 PM ----------

BTW, yes you still can do it yourself, but only if you got a good scan tool. Many people on this forum have one from some kind.


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Just taken this to let you know how hot it can be here ;-) 5ybega6y.jpg

Yes its 44C 111F




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I'm not sure about this but doesn't the clutch fan work off of temp? Or is it electric? Meaning it engages and disengages when a certain temp is attained? I know on my truck the fan has a type of thermostat in it and the only way to truly check it is to heat it and see if it engages and disengages. My guess would be clutch fan which would lead to higher rpms as the ecu is telling it to do so because of the extra load. Idk, I could be totally wrong. Just a thought!
 
The thermostat works on its on, when the coolant temperature reaches a certain level it pops open and diverts the coolant flow through the radiator, given that climate I am sure it is always open, many people actually take the thermostat off for that matter.

The ECM controls the electrical cooling fan corresponding to the vehicle speed, engine coolant temperature, refrigerantpressure, and air conditioner ON signal.


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Clutch of the ac compressor is elctro magnetic.
So when needed there is an electric signal going there engaging the clutch.
 
I'm not talking abut the thermostat for the water pump. I'm talking about the fan clutch, there are no wires hooked to it as it spins. Idk, but on my Chevy 2500 it is controlled via a thermostat, the reason I know this as I was having some work done and asked the mechanic if he thought the fan should be that hard to turn. He in turn explained to me that it is controlled by an internal thermostat, he then showed by running a torch over it. In other words, while moving the air passes over the radiator, while stopped there is no airflow and heats the thermostat and allows the clutch to engage. That's what the spring thingy is on the clutch. Again, I'm no mech but if it sounds loud and has a higher rpm, that is the first thing I would look at as it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging as it should.
 
The radiator fan does not have a clutch.
It's directly mounted on a electric motor that get's a signal from the ECM, this one monitors the cooling water temperature with a sensor and starts/stops the fan when needed.
For the AC system it's also sending a signal when needed to run for the condenser.
 
Yep, the FX35 uses electric fans. The 45's fan is driven by the crankshaft.
 
Renhalt, ok now I understand, yes in the FX45 the mechanical fan works exactly as you described, it has a thermostatic coupling (aka clutch) that engages and disengages the fan according to temperature. The OP is talking about the electrical fan that is controlled solely by the ECM as I stated earlier, it is also the ECM that controllers the RPM, so I was suggesting that wrong or incomplete data is fed to the ECM causing the higher RPM.

La_fx, my FX45 has both, mechanical fan (crank shaft driven with coupling) and electronic one right behind the grill.


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You're right, there is a eletric motor driven one right behind the grille.
 
ohman ... this is sooo cool ... i have to jump in! so i read the whole thing, ( oh this could be long, bear with me ) i better start with this: my company name is Behr ... so i should say behr with me :) and we just got gobbled up by Mahle ... you might know, engine components - but i'm in service with engine cooling and a/c - for pass cars, up to the big rigs, BUT - they're all different, especially the Infinity ... ok back to the start - it started with a guy from Dubai ... in jumps a guy from the Lands, Libya, eventually the experts, and Georgia ( U.S. ) Kentucky, Chicago and now Texas ... how cool is that huh? and the names ... ymizyed - hmm - what's that mean? i feel so plain man :) ( tryin' to focus ) ok, my take on all this, and it's just an overview: all the input is good, and it could be any of those, but you have to know the car ... i'm leaning to the ecm, but have to remind that it's hot, but we have hot here in Texas also ... and i don't have these issues; yes, a quick test is remove the belt and feel the parts, compressor should be free wheeling, pulley as well, what get's my attention is: from pic #3, the rpm going up with the rad fan, can be normal but shouldn't be much, electronics ... if the fan is binding, so spin it to see if it is free ... btw, just had the rad replaced? did it leak? could have overheated due to the fan not doing it's job, my fan does not kick in too often, and that brings me to my conclusion: why the hell are the tech's at the dealer not getting this? and it's not just in Dubai, seen others on this site and peeps spend so much time going to the damned dealer ... c'mon, win the future, get your act together guys! one good shade tree mech is better than all of you !!!
 
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