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FX35 03-08 shift knob redux

Discussion in 'FX (03-08) - Interior & Exterior' started by onthemove, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    I've read all that's available on the site regarding shift knob swaps. I found a u-tube vid of a guy installing an aftermarket knob on his g35. From what I gathered, momo & razo were the only two people experimented with but it appears that many knobs will work. The button isn't needed & you can just push down on the knob to shift.
    Has anyone installed something other than the above mentioned aftermarket knobs with/without a button successfully? Is the button necessary? It's either a nice aftermarket knob or getting mine re-wrapped in leather. Thanks.
     

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  2. jcasanova

    jcasanova Premium Member Premium

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    Houston,Tx
    2007 Infiniti FX35 AWD
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    There is a guy who makes push down shift knobs on g35driver.com that I've had for about 3 years now. 0a9b711bd2dcf4a9eeeedc186809f960.jpg

    Sent from my LG-H901
     
    zebra555 and onthemove like this.
  3. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Oh, hey, I like that. Looks like aluminum but in black chrome. I'm boot-less though, so I wonder if it would look odd? Will try to hunt down this guy & see if he's still in business. Thank you for that jcasanova.
     
  4. jcasanova

    jcasanova Premium Member Premium

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    onthemove likes this.
  5. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Thank you again JC. I didn't comment on the boot & I didn't plan on changing what I have now but I gotta say that boot looks like a really nice, quality custom piece. Digging the carbon fiber wrap as well. I've come across multiple people on the g35 forums that have done this while looking for the shift knob you have, and most boots are ill fitting at best.
    My only concern is that I'll make a mistake. I drive aggressively sometimes & almost always use the manual mode. Fortunately, the shifter has a built-in dumbazz proof trigger to keep me out of trouble. I have gone to shift before, not realizing that it was in drive, thinking it's in manual mode. I up shift & end up in neutral. Good thing I don't end up in reverse. + I've got something similar to the wrap you've got. My shift plate has it as well & would hate to get rid of it.
    I checked the link for the knob but reads "page not found". Bummer.
     
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  6. jcasanova

    jcasanova Premium Member Premium

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    2007 Infiniti FX35 AWD
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  7. AxelFX

    AxelFX Member

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    2004 FX35 RWD
    Alex
    Garages:
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    Would this shift knob have any clearance issue with the 03-05 console shifter ?
     
  8. jcasanova

    jcasanova Premium Member Premium

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    2007 Infiniti FX35 AWD
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    I don't think you would have any issues since some guys here have converted their 03-05 shifter panel to the 06-08, which I think you should do cuz I think the 06-08 panel looks better...

    Sent from my LG-H901
     
  9. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Thanks for that link JC. Would've taken me awhile to find it.
     
  10. jcasanova

    jcasanova Premium Member Premium

    2,173
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    Houston,Tx
    2007 Infiniti FX35 AWD
    Garages:
    1
    Anytime

    Sent from my LG-H901
     
  11. shadow191

    shadow191 Premium Member Premium

    4,077
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    Atlanta, GA
    2007 FX35
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    You can also run the Infiniti M series shift knobs with some mild modification. I almost did that but ended up just keeping the OEM knob with a suede shift boot similar to what the picture shows (same maker). I tried the Momo and took it out after 3 days because it's too sensitive. It uses tiny set screws to mount and if you put any pressure on the knob at all it will move and then the button will jam.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Yeah, saw the M knob. Looks good too. I'm going to a shop that does both interior & exterior work @ the end of this week or beginning of next. Will see what quality of work they do & maybe just keep my shifter & they can wrap it in black leather while it's there for other things.
    Got the "willow" colored interior, if that's what it's called. Lots of black accents (door handles, buttons, etc.), so I installed a black trim kit that I think looks really good. Was like $650 but got it for a buck-fifty ($150). It doesn't fit perfectly. Upon trial fit, I found I'd have to install the various pieces in a certain way because each piece was a bit short. Ended up looking really good imo because the oem brushed aluminum finish shows up along certain edges. If I paid retail & this kit was like a wood grain type deal I'D A BEEN PISSED but fortunately it worked out well. Gives it a multi-dimensional look. Hard to explain but will hopefully be posting many photos of interior, exterior & engine bay this weekend when I'm done slaving over the wire tuck. Guess I'll start a new thread cause I've done some odd shit that some will like & some will not & got a lot more in the works. Should @ least be entertaining.
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2017
  13. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    DSC00495.JPG DSC00491.JPG DSC00492.JPG DSC00494.JPG DSC00497.JPG DSC00496.JPG DSC00490.JPG Got this trim kit, did a quick trial fit & almost hastily threw it up on ebay. Didn't come w/the door handles & fit was poor. Trial fit again & found a silhouette was achieved by shifting it instead of centering it on some pieces & centering on others. Bought the 4 door handles from a separate co. All in for a buck-fifty. Would've been $650 had I not found a "gotta get rid of this shit cause nobody else wants it" deal, direct from the company. Quick, relatively easy & cheap.
    Removed the brushed alum. strip on the shifter handle & replaced. Gotta re-do the button @ cupholder. Made that one myself. Lots of extra pieces that if installed would just make the interior look gaudy imo. New black carpeting, black floor mats & seat reupholstering r in the near future.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Wire tucking the looms on ether side isn't too difficult. No photo's. Sorry. Most wires are 18 or 20 gauge except for the radiator harness which is 14 gauge. Materials needed; 20, 18 & 14 gauge wire, 33 or 88 3m electrical tape, 1/4" & 1/2" wire loom, soldering gun & 40/60 soldering wire, heat shrink assorted & grommet assorted packages & some harness clips to fix harness to body.
    There are holes on either side that you'll see once you remove either wheel well. Passenger side hole is below the fuse box against the firewall which can be accessed with some patience. The passenger side has a plug which, once you cut out the center makes for a perfect grommet. There are 2 holes on the passenger side actually, both with their own plugs ready to be made into perfect grommets. Just cut out the centers. One hole for your pass. side loom & the other for your transmission loom, which conveniently routes right into the engine bay. You will need to provide a grommet for the driver side.
    All wires, save for the loom that carries all plugs for all sensors between the radiator & front bumper/facia (also to include the pass. side fog light, which needs no extending), will need to be extended on the FX35, period. This loom that I just spoke of has the airbag sensor on it, horns, etc. Again, this loom needs no extending. The rest of the wires on both sides are for the headlights & fog lights only.
    The plugs will mostly all fit through these holes on both sides. Driver side is the pita. If/when you've got to cut'em, cut'em, pass the wires through & then tape the plug to the wires, this way you can continue until all are in the wheel well & move on to the next stage which is measuring/mocking up & soldering.
    Best advice is to add enough length to each wire & check/trial fit your wires & the wheel well together as you go & give yourself a day per side, especially if you've never done this before. Passenger side hard plastic loom harness doesn't want to come off, but it will. You'll want to cut the zip tie style fasteners that you'll find in the battery & brake bays to get more slack & move these looms in order to run the wires through their new holes.
    Below are a few photos of what can be seen after the side looms have been tucked, which is not much, as well as the bay before the main loom tuck, of which I do have plenty of photos.
    DSC00451.JPG DSC00450.JPG DSC00452.JPG DSC00436.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 24, 2017
  15. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    The main loom & transmission (awd) loom tuck is below, hopefully all in one shot. Time constraints have me typing my ass off but want to get this info out to ya'll as it was info found on this site as well as 350z/g35 sites that have gotten me this far. Thank you for that.
    No cutting of any wire is necessary. Some may seem as though they need to be cut to get them sorted out, but they do not. Be patient & separate what you can. Use painters tape to mark your plugs & sensors, especially your 6 coil packs! Remove only what loom you must remove as you go. Get everything for the passenger side to the passenger side then concern yourself w/the driver side. Save yourself some grief & forget about unplugging the fuel injector plug & the plug to the rear of the driver side cylinder head by removing the fuel injector rails. The injector plug is a bitch & I left it alone.
    Started with what you see below.
    DSC00436.JPG
    It's nice to be able to stand in the engine bay (sorry 350z & g35 guys & those w/t's or s.c.'ers). Biggest pain in the ass with these two looms is the fatigue of standing on either side of the bay for hours. Remove the cover below the engine & you will be happy you did. I tossed the engine splash guard a long time ago. It may serve a minor purpose in terms of aerodynamics? Maybe to direct more air to the radiator? Perhaps it's there solely to keep the engine clean? What if you develop a leak? That splash guard might prevent you from knowing until it's too late. I tossed it & removed the long rubber seal & two small seals that sits atop all the plastic paneling at the back, from the battery bay to the brake bay. The rubber seal might keep the leaves out but if your garage kept, who cares? Cool air enters from below & the heat rises & escapes where these seals were, like a ridge vent on a roof. Every time I pop the hood during the summer, there's no big rush of hot air hitting me in the face. I've seen guys installing hood spacers & shit like that. No need.
    DSC00437.JPG
    DSC00440.JPG
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    DSC00438.JPG
    Lets start with the transmission loom. Disconnect the negative battery terminal 1st. Pull the battery. There's a plug below the battery box. Hard to see but easy to feel for. It's below the indentation, the point where the engine bay tucks under that battery location. You'll see it once the battery tray is removed but removing the battery tray will most likely be an unpleasant task. There are three bolts. One of the three sits @ the bottom of the tray where water & acid will stand. Infiniti left two holes w/ready-to-make grommets for a clean wire tuck but failed to provide a weep hole @ this bolt? Your bolt is most likely rusted to the point that a socket will not catch it. I'm in the south - no salt & mine was trashed so take your hot soldering iron & pierce the plastic tray, all the way around the bolt. It'll take 5 minutes but you'll cut through the plastic & the tray will come right up, rather that struggling with it & possibly damaging something else. You have 2 bolts left.
    DSC00459.JPG
    Now, snatch out the rubber plug, cut out the center & put it back in place. There's your grommet. DSC00457.JPG
    DSC00458.JPG
    Now, remove the transmission loom from the positive battery terminal. You may choose to do this before you remove the battery as that fucker is on there tight! Make sure to support the positive battery terminal with one hand as you brake the bolt with the other. Might as well brake the bolt for the alternator as well @ this point if your doing a temp. relocation or have already plotted out a true & permanent relocation route. Alt. wire loom is short, fyi.
    Now take that loom, bring it around behind the engine & through your newly made grommet & up into the battery box. Plenty of room inside battery box, especially if you've already tucked the pass. side loom & there's plenty of length to get it situated properly.There are multiple points you can use to fix this loom via zip tie so it's not just laying there behind the engine. I used one which was plenty, fixed to a bracket behind the driver side cylinder head. You'll find Infiniti laid another loom(s), sitting right on top of the transmission. The transmission loom has the yellow tape on it which you will not see until you remove it from it's original location. Keep in mind, the battery has room to shift left & right before you tighten the hold down.
    DSC00461.JPG
    I intend on relocating the alternator loom as well as the 2 8 gauge crutchfield grounding wires I added awhile back. Will have to drill & grommet down below & will do a write-up on that when it's done but for now I switched the alternator loom to where the transmission loom came from to lower it a bit. Took 5 minutes. Now you've got the transmission loom in the back & alternator loom in a better location.
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2017
    fxlr8 likes this.
  16. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    No cutting of any wire is necessary. Some may seem as though they need to be cut to get them sorted out, but they do not. Be patient & separate what you can. Use painters tape to mark your plugs & sensors, especially your 6 coil packs! Remove only what loom covering (rigid plastic) you must remove as you go. Get everything for the passenger side to the passenger side then concern yourself w/the driver side. Save yourself some grief & forget about unplugging the fuel injector plug & the plug to the rear of the driver side cylinder head by removing the fuel injector rails. The injector plug is a bitch & I left it alone. Wait to remove the plastic loom on the plug end as these areas tend to be a pita & you can probably just leave'em as I did some.
    Upper/lower collector removed, fuel rail removed, wire loom stripped & all sensors & plugs marked. Note the "hard loom" to the upper left engine area, near the coolant bleeder. That is hard plastic & is just like the hard plastic loom that sits atop the passenger side fender, but with some patience, a pair of nimble cutters & a small utility knife, you can cut that down to allow you to shift the harness 90 degrees as 80% of the harness will be running along the back of the engine, not the passenger side.
    DSC00462.JPG Cut that hard loom back. I didn't remove it, just cut it down to reroute then ran new loom to & down, inside of it about an inch, wrapping it all up in 33 3m electrical tape afterwards. You've got wiggle room in there. This photo is taken before I cut the top off this hard plastic loom.
    DSC00463.JPG
    Fuel rail is very flexible. Put it off to the side while still connected, once connected valve is unplugged from wire loom. That big mess of wires on top of the engine is for the two plugs mentioned above, fuel rail & driver cylinder head. The wires laying on the driver side fender are the maf, t.b., cam sensor, a/c. The o2 sensor wires can all stay at the back & bound up in your new loom(s).
    DSC00464.JPG
    Lots of extra wire that frankly I didn't feel like cutting & soldering back together, so I ended up with 3 looms. Leave yourself some extra space & keep the looms from coming too close to the fuel rail or else you might not be able to get the fuel rail back on. No shit! I came close. The loom hanging from the hard lines on the firewall is the ground package that originally bolted to the front of the engine, on top of the timing chain cover. Now it's bolted to the back bolt of the lower intake collector, the bolt sticking up between the end of the green tape & the squiggly hard line connecting the two fuel rails.
    DSC00468.JPG
    DSC00470.JPG
    Routing the wires to the backside of the coil packs, which will no longer be visible underneath the intake collector assembly. The power steering, alternator & a/c wires tuck behind the cam sensors.
    DSC00467.JPG
    DSC00472.JPG
    DSC00473.JPG
    This fucker is tucked, almost. Got the alternator & added ground wires to deal w/soon. Hopefully all the extra photos will add many thousands of words. Other minor details like plasti-dipping the intake, which by the way does actually keep it a little cooler. Painted the t.b. & lower collector, cleaned the lower & upper collector as well as the manifold (oil in the runners pre-catch can). Cleaned the whole damn bay.
    Previously, deleted all the useless heater hoses & idler pulley, wrinkle painted the overflow reservoirs, installed the mishimoto baffled catch can & painted many bolts after cleaning w/an industrial ultra-high-temp flat black paint & fine artists brush.
    Prior to this, installed kinetix v-plenum & h.f. cats, invidia dual, my own custom 4" intake which added 8hp. & 5ft.lbs. over a z-tube w/all other baffles deleted & drop in K&n (poor air filter took a beating trial fitting the intake), osiris software, lightweight wheels & tires, shift kit that I fucked up & needed to be bailed out of & I removed exactly 250 lbs. so far. Ran a 15 flat before much of this crap & believe I can get this pig down the 1/4 in the mid 14's @ this point. Looking for high 12's on the stock block & trans after rear mounted turbo or vortech but will be happy @ a very low 13.
    Hope those who read this enjoy it & gain @ least something from it. Any questions, I am happy to oblige.
    DSC00482.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2017
    fxlr8 likes this.
  17. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    More tucking photos. The wrinkle paint is a VHT product. Some have had poor results w/it, so apply it heavily. Don't handle it for 2 days. Cannot "bake" plastic but over time, under the hood, it cures. Very durable.
    Flat black swatch'o paint on the top of the timing cover is a test spot. Not looking for polished anything inside the bay. May do the flat black or G2 in silver but can get away without pulling everything apart using the flat black (it's very thin) & go right over the bolts. Dremel w/wire brush attachment works well removing oxidation from all metal. Where a face mask @ minimum.
    MAF moved close to T.B. for more accurate tuning. 4" intake will not work without tuning. Fuel needed to be added & larger pipe measured, k value adjusted bla bla bla.
    Vacuum once attached to back of intake can now be dropped down out of sight.
    Cut the vacuum hose to pcv fresh air side that attaches to the underside of the intake pipe in 1/2 then installed a 1/2" copper plumbing 90 degree fitting to invert the 2nd 1/2 to get it to fit the new hose bung. Running breathers to replace the pcv system is not a good idea. Did it & fuel suffered, possibly power as well. Positive crank case ventilation cannot be "positive" unless crank case is being actively ventilated via vacuum, not to mention unmetered air enters the system as it's no longer in closed loop & engine smells like a damn lawnmower.
    DSC00471.JPG
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    DSC00475.JPG
    DSC00477.JPG
    DSC00478.JPG
    DSC00479.JPG
    Trimmed the coolant overflow hose to reservoir & ran behind rad. bracket & down below. Cleaner & out of the way.
    New rubber gates hoses & oem hose clamps (they come black now) & installed HR thermostat w/housing to aid in deleting old oil filter heater hose assembly. You also need the HR oil filter stud & 25(?) mm star socket to do this. Hard line for this heater is behind the a/c & you must move the a/c unit to get to the bolt.
    DSC00482.JPG
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    DSC00485.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2017
    AxelFX and fxlr8 like this.
  18. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Exterior photos & probably the last of'em till F.I.
    DSC00503.JPG
    DSC00500.JPG
    DSC00515.JPG
    Where the hell did my sway bars & under tray go? In the trash.
    DSC00502.JPG


    DSC00514.JPG
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    DSC00508.JPG
    Invidia tips turned in @ 90 degrees & shimmed to line up perfectly. Pictures don't do justice. Tips make exhaust look exotic set up this way. Not past bumper as I'm a fan of drone:).
    DSC00509.JPG
    DSC00510.JPG
    No rear sway either. Suspension is truly independent. Sway bar & hardware deletes subtract 30lbs.
    Xover likes to wonder a bit @ higher speeds, so pay attention! Nice thing is, pothole on one side does not effect the other side, so handling much improved imo.
    Invidia could've hung the pipes up a little higher. Can't complain. Love the exhaust! Dual pipes & almost 5 lbs lighter than stock, all things included. Gotta love that math.
    DSC00512.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017
    jumbosrule and fxlr8 like this.
  19. gto

    gto Track Ready Moderator

    16,465
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    Los Angeles, CA
    05 FX35 RWD
    Garages:
    1
    Coming out very nicely. Mods look great and car is very clean. Wiring is crazy
     
  20. OP
    OP
    onthemove

    onthemove Member

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    Thanks to anyone for positive or negative feedback. Both are of value. Honesty is the best policy. If I wasn't specific enough in a certain area or need other photos, I'll do it, just let me know, except for pulling the wheel wells! Love this editing deal so mistakes can be corrected quickly & I don't look like a dick for too long:unsure:. When xover gets F.I., I'll get many more photo's as wells should be pulled again @ that point. If you're going to tuck, it's probably best to check this in a couple weeks beforehand as more info will be edited in.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017