FX37: Not revving over 3500rpm
- Thread starter Bottie
- Start date
Can they give you more details about what is blocked? Is something blocking your exhaust? A blockage should not require a new engine. Really, unless you actually damaged an internal component of your engine like the pistons/rods/valves/cylinders, you should not need a new engine. Anything that attaches to the engine can be replaced separately. This is very strange that you only throw a code for a cam sensor but you're having all these other problems.
Well, here's the story:
Last week, I burned my starter because I tried to start the engine too much. Meanwhile, while the starter was in the repair-shop, I replaced also the MAF-sensors and had the car transported to a Nissandealer nearby.
When the starter was fixed, I brought it to the dealer on saturday. Monday, they called me to tell me the starter does not work. They said they tried to start 2 times and the starter was broken again, they also said the complete engine was blocked and that caused the starter the break itself. I went to them, took the starter with me and headed back to the repair shop, I had warranty on the repair. When they opened it, while I was there, the damage was huge inside, but where I burned it, now the starter was desintegrated due to high-speed rotations, so basicly, the starter worked without having the engine on it. The guy at the repairshop showed me, with a defective one, what happened. Also, there were signs on the positive power-connector they caused something like a welding-spot (short-circuit). We repaired the starter again, put it on a testbank and it worked perfect.
One day later, yesterday, I went back to the dealer with the starter, they installed it again. When they tried to start, I saw there was no power on the car, no lights and such. We searched and 4 fuses were burned and the main fuse (250A) was also burned, so that confirmed to me there was a electrical error caused by them when they installed the starter after the first repair.
I told them to connect everything the another battery, on my risk, and tried to start. replaced the fuses, connected the battery. All lights on, push start ... and the starter worded perfect, turned the engine ... but same issue ... Engine starts, after 2 seconds it stops ... so the same issue like I had before I replaced the camshaft and MAF-sensors
But, one thing is sure, they did something wrong after the first repair of the starter ... and I getting out of ideas
- Car
- 2012 Nissan Maxima SV
- Name
- Joey
Sounds like you have a lemon, IDK???
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- Car
- 2012 Nissan Maxima SV
- Name
- Joey
Lol. Fairly new infiniti do you have the carfax buy Back Guarantee? Sounds like the dealer gave you a lemon especially if their stating you need a new engine. I'd be on the phone with the DMV and Better Business Bureau.
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In Belgium there's no Buy Back Guarantee ...
Repairshop (other one) says it can be a crankshaft-sensor, because when the engine is warm, starting is not a problem anymore
- Car
- 2012 Nissan Maxima SV
- Name
- Joey
Didn't you change them, sounds like they're just guessing in any case that sucks. Hope it gets sorted out.
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Obsedian
Member
- Car
- FX37
- Name
- Ray
Bottie,
I don't believe it is the crankshaft position-sensor, it will still give you trouble to start while it is warm depending on where your engine position when you attempt to start;
I would rather believe that it is one of your coil pack is going bad, and that what can give you trouble when cold and once started it will go fine especially after it warm up!
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- Car
- 2017 QX70S
- Name
- Andy
Test your Camshaft Position sensor.
---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
I recently had P0340 code. Car didn't start. I test the new sensor. Got continuity between the three pins. Test the old sensor, there is no continuity between pin 1 and 3. If the sensor is good, there will be continuity or some resistance between 1 & 2, 1 & 3, and 2 & 3.
---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:06 PM ----------
I recently had P0340 code. Car didn't start. I test the new sensor. Got continuity between the three pins. Test the old sensor, there is no continuity between pin 1 and 3. If the sensor is good, there will be continuity or some resistance between 1 & 2, 1 & 3, and 2 & 3.
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We didn't look further, no time
But, Does a bad coil also cause the engine not revving over 3500rpm?
Obsedian
Member
- Car
- FX37
- Name
- Ray
We didn't look further, no time
But, Does a bad coil also cause the engine not revving over 3500rpm?
I don't believe so, very slim chance if coil start to cutoff and you will feel the engine running like five instead of six cylinders (very rough)
We had some time today:
- Checked the cam- and crankshaftsensors: OK
- Signal from the sensors to the ECU: OK
- Still not starting, when getting a little warmer, it improves
- Disconnected the coolant-tempsensor, this way the ECU thinks it is 40°c: also improvement
Result of today:
Sensors: OK
Wiring: OK
- Checked the cam- and crankshaftsensors: OK
- Signal from the sensors to the ECU: OK
- Still not starting, when getting a little warmer, it improves
- Disconnected the coolant-tempsensor, this way the ECU thinks it is 40°c: also improvement
Result of today:
Sensors: OK
Wiring: OK
We found something that seems not right:
This is the normal diagram for the readings from the cam- and crankshaftsensors:
And this is what we have when trying to start (edited picture, but that's what we see on the computer when connected on the ECU-inputs):
As you can see, red line, there's a diffirence. Can this cause the ignition-timing being off and the 3500rpm-revving limit? Also, can this be related with the ticking-sound which I think is coming from the timing-chain-guider?
This is the normal diagram for the readings from the cam- and crankshaftsensors:
And this is what we have when trying to start (edited picture, but that's what we see on the computer when connected on the ECU-inputs):
As you can see, red line, there's a diffirence. Can this cause the ignition-timing being off and the 3500rpm-revving limit? Also, can this be related with the ticking-sound which I think is coming from the timing-chain-guider?
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skywalker999
Member
- Car
- 2011 fx35 AWD
- Name
- GM
That looks like you have a timing chain problem
Yeah, but can this be the cause of the engine not starting? Because, when the engine was warm, I could drive whole day?
- Car
- 2014 qx70s
- Name
- Edwin
That looks like your missing the sensor output on both cam sensors at the same time. If the crank wasnt affected during the glitch chances are the problem is right at the cam sensors. You should also scope the input aswell to see if theres an intermittent ground problem to the sensors themselves cutting out because honestly theyre just generating a magnetically induced voltage towards the ecm with 1 wire & 1 wire carrying voltage going to the sensors and one ground. Check your grounds for a short to power. & check the power wires for a short to ground. I believe Theres also a ecm relay thats linked to the 12v source to the sensors aswell.
Hi,
The graphics I'posted are based on the signals at the ECU-connector, behind the glovebox
Maybe you are confused by the 'glitches' shown in the graphics, so here it is like at is:
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- Car
- 2014 qx70s
- Name
- Edwin
Yes that is the ecu signals that im talking about. To diagnose this you need a scanner that has a scope and check those for glitches.