Sub and amp upgrade.

illestFX35

illestFX35

Member
Car
2010 FX35 RWD
I want to run 2 10" alpine subs in the rear and a pioneer amp. i have no idea where i should mount these without taking up all my trunk space. so my goal here is to have maximum cargo with a bumpin stereo. any ideas? and fyi i really dont need a spare tire because when i get a bbk it probably wont fit over anyways.


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They would sit perfectly right where the spare tire is if you take it and the oem woofer out in a costume enclosure. Otherwise you could just do two custom enlosures with velcro on the side cavities like rip did on his fx for easy removal. Check it out on his garage.
 
Themechanic said:
They would sit perfectly right where the spare tire is if you take it and the oem woofer out in a costume enclosure. Otherwise you could just do two custom enlosures with velcro on the side cavities like rip did on his fx for easy removal. Check it out on his garage.
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What I was thinking was 2 10" subs in the spare tire well and a mesh or cage like cover something like thisbdd11327c1d524db62c7de277ed34091.jpg
these are 2 12" rockfords in a juke.7720258b8b02c48c241773bea6e8ef21.jpg
 

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I like that.

I am trying to find the best way to tap into this factory head unit
 
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I was going to do the floor subs on my 2nd gen then I realized my 1st gen sub setup fit perfectly anyway..... 2 10". Back seats in normal recline position.

barely any room for big items bit I can always fold seats and lay the box down... the FX isnt known for cargo space anyway.

IMG_2927_zpsqq3orzga.jpg
 

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Those are some nice setups. I'll be upgrading my sub to a power fosgate 12" that I took out of my '08 MDX soon, but it won't be anything that extensive. A few questions to those of you who have upgraded your subs:

What is the best route to run the power wire to the back of the car?

Is it possible to use the factory remote wire to control the sub level from the factory head unit, or is that not the purpose of that wire?

It looks like most of you are running your line out converters right from the wires that connect into the harness... is that right?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Most run the wires from the factory amp harness. Prefferably with an loc converter. Best route is the right kick panels all the way to the battery.
 
Daravelli said:
Those are some nice setups. I'll be upgrading my sub to a power fosgate 12" that I took out of my '08 MDX soon, but it won't be anything that extensive. A few questions to those of you who have upgraded your subs:

What is the best route to run the power wire to the back of the car?

Is it possible to use the factory remote wire to control the sub level from the factory head unit, or is that not the purpose of that wire?

It looks like most of you are running your line out converters right from the wires that connect into the harness... is that right?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Click to expand...

You shouldn't need a line coverter if you pickup the line level leads going into the factory amp and run a highpass filter on the new sub amp itself. This would be a cleaner way to go and you'll avoid any processing from the Bose amp. That said you'll also miss any time correction from the amp to the sub that might be going on in the Bose processing.

Best case scenario is to install a new amp for the sub and speakers and ideally add in a processor. More $ of course, and space.
 
santiagodraco said:
You shouldn't need a line coverter if you pickup the line level leads going into the factory amp and run a highpass filter on the new sub amp itself. This would be a cleaner way to go and you'll avoid any processing from the Bose amp. That said you'll also miss any time correction from the amp to the sub that might be going on in the Bose processing.

Best case scenario is to install a new amp for the sub and speakers and ideally add in a processor. More $ of course, and space.
Click to expand...

The second part of what you say here is definitely the truth. My sub pounds don't get me wrong, but if your end goal is SQ, you should definitely get another amp to power the speakers, even if you leave the speakers factory for the time being powering them with something other than the bose garbage will sound much better.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll try the kick panel (by right I'm guessing that's passenger side?) route for the power wire.

santiagodraco said:
You shouldn't need a line coverter if you pickup the line level leads going into the factory amp and run a highpass filter on the new sub amp itself. This would be a cleaner way to go and you'll avoid any processing from the Bose amp. That said you'll also miss any time correction from the amp to the sub that might be going on in the Bose processing.

Best case scenario is to install a new amp for the sub and speakers and ideally add in a processor. More $ of course, and space.
Click to expand...

Right, so this should take care of the low level frequency cutoff issues that I keep reading about on here? Where is the factory amp located?

meme405 said:
The second part of what you say here is definitely the truth. My sub pounds don't get me wrong, but if your end goal is SQ, you should definitely get another amp to power the speakers, even if you leave the speakers factory for the time being powering them with something other than the bose garbage will sound much better.
Click to expand...

Yeah, my primary goal is to get a decent sounding system up and running for now. Eventually I will want to add another amp for the rest of the speakers, get a decent component system up front and replace the rear door speakers as well.
 
If you search for my system build. You will find that I currently have 2 10 inch Alpine subs installed in a custom fiberglass enclosure. I will be revising the system this summer so I can make the enclosure available to you for free just pay for shipping since I will be making a whole new one and won't have any use for it.
 
So I finally finished my install. Ran the power wire through the boot, sealed with permatex black silicone, ran the power wire down the passenger side of the car and up under the plastic spare tire tray. The only thing I had to remove in the back was the seat cushions, which come off easily with some pull clips. Used a hanger to snake the wire through from the back seat door sill to the spare tire compartment. I ended up grounding on one of the bolts that holds the back seat brackets in. Seems like a good solid ground. I did end up tapping at the harness rather than before the factory amp, and have no sound processing issues. My lows hit just fine and I haven't noticed any clipping. I used a PAC-35 line out converter and attached both positive wires to the factory red harness wire and both negative wires to the factory green harness wire. It all went pretty smoothly.

One thing I want to mention is that the bolt that holds down the spare tire cover straps CAN NOT be used to ground the amp. I got everything put together, had no sound from the sub and realized that was the problem.

I ended up going with a Fosgate power 12" and a Directed 600d amp. I'm happy with the system. Now to deal with the rattles...
 
I love all these setups in this thread, but I am kind of like the OP here. I can't sacrifice all my trunk space. I am looking into one of these. With the right setup, this can be just disconnected and stored.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13693331/JL-Audio-ACP208LG-W3v3.html

thoughts.....

Biggy

---------- Post added at 07:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 AM ----------

oh.. and don't want to sacrifice my spare tire.. doh.. that was my other caveat..
 
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